The subject is camber and how it's changing as the car rolls changes traction.
Go-karts do not have that capability as it is a fixed axle. Completely different.

Not to mention that real car tires are a complicated structure that work mechanically which is a capability rc tires simply don't have.

In addition to the above, how about just lowering the ride height if the surface is smooth enough.

Wow at the information overload I asked for . Tks for the views .
Yea I'm just trying to apply the knowledge with this thread to my on road racing as well as of road .
On road we tend to change inner hinge pin location to deal with role center and the camber link is more for camber gain .
Not to mention offroad cars offer way more camber setting changes than on road (wide range )
But anyhoo , with carpet racing traction is super high at times and rolling becomes a issue and stiffening (less role ) setup sometimes makes it worse , so even tho less role scrubs traction it seems to make the rolling issue worse .AAlso with on road we r dealing with flat tires instead of rounded so that's something some of us don't think about when talking about camber setups.
With this said I have a team Durango desc410v2 and it traction roles in the sweeper on our indoor clay track .
It has a short low link in the rear with about 4deg of camber in the rear . But in slower areas it loose . I want to keep it from rolling in the sweeper but don't want to loose and mechanical grip in the rear thru the infield (tight track with a lot of tight turns) next weekend I'm going to try more role in the front and more caber in the rear first (local guys r telling me to go with stiffer front springs but I can't do that correctly without changing the rear for balance .
Am I off in my thoughts on my changes I'm wanting to make?

If it's just traction rolling on the sweeper I would add a anti-roll bar.Years ago I raced on astroturf tracks with an 1/8th buggy and when it would TR if I could not take any more droop or cushion the grip spike with camber or softer springs I would cut off the outer row on the tires.

The thing is, I've tried this. It only made the problem worse. In fact, putting the shocks farther OUT on the tower actually improved my steering. Maybe it improved my mid-late steering though. ARGH this is all so confusing lol! :flaming:

My brother is a retired top gun instructor and his motto he says he will take luck over skill anyday.
The primary tuning book I use was written by the famous chinese author "Who Flung Poo",
the theory is if you throw enough zhit on the wall something will stick.

Well hey, let's not get too far from the Gospel according to Fred Swain. Shock hole positions are used for setting spring rates, nothing else. Once set, they shouldn't be touched.

With that said, if going out on the tower made the problem better, it sounds like your front spring rate may have been a little too soft. Have you ever gone through and tried the method laid out in this thread by Fred?

Although, I am having a hard time figuring out how your on power steering could be better than your off power steering. Seems backwards to me. Have you tried adding toe-out up front? That will make the car turn-in quicker.

yup, it does slightly change the rate of progression. It may be a quick fix or test but changing springs or oils is the way to go in the end.

good ole toe.... as long as it doesn't wander around at speed a little more does turn in better. A couple degrees feels massive to me.

Ok I need some guidance. Setting up an SC10 2wd w/BB shocks. I've done the push down and release test. I tried three sets of springs front and rear...same results. The chassis comes up level and at the same rate every time. However, when I do the 6" drop test, the front oscillates two times and the rear almost five. Again, using three sets of springs I get the same results. I just bought two more spring sets to try. Should the rear oscillation match the front or vice-versa? By performing either test, is there something I should be looking for so I don't use springs that are too stiff...or too soft?

The amount of time they oscillate does not matter. Dampening (oil) takes care of that. What you are looking for right now is just the rate of the oscillation. Try the push down and release test again. When you release the truck both ends should rise at the same rate. If you've never done this before and aren't quite sure what you're seeing it may appear that the front and back rise at the same time. However, one end may be rising slightly faster than the other and it could happen so fast that you might not notice it. It's best to take some video and slow it down to analyse it. If not, have a careful eye and be patient. Good luck, the process is well worth the effort!

In my view weight transfer doesn't depend on roll or springs. Physics say that weight transfer occurs from cornering forces applied at the center of gravity and only track width and ride height affect weight transfer. The springs can't add or remove any forces to the tires since the downforce can't exceed the weight of the car.
Now if you study the roll resistance of the front versus rear that is where you can see how traction moves around. The softer end gets the most traction because more of the weight is distributed to each tire versus the stiff end which may have one wheel off the ground in extreme cases.
This may differ than conventional tuning wisdom, but this is the basics. More complex discussions can involve camber and tire issues, but in my view its important to take a step back and understand the basics. If your car is rolling, lower the ride height, add aero forces, increase track width, reduce traction, or slow down.

So if the rear bounces more than the front, I should use a stiffer rear spring yes?

What? How do you make that leap in logic?

You need to watch the rate at which the chassis moves back up from a compressed state. Any other movement after the chassis moves back up is pretty much a result of extra inertia from the motor. That's why I prefer the push the chassis down and release it method. Its easier to see the return speed that way. Make sense?