|
Yeah, my bad. I had it backwards. Geez, ease up on a fella!
|
Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 11815902)
Yeah, my bad. I had it backwards. Geez, ease up on a fella!
|
Originally Posted by 400units
(Post 11815146)
Try it and post your results please.
|
That's plenty of toe. You have to decide if you want to solve your setup issue by increasing the rear traction or reducing the front traction. Then make the appropriate changes.
|
Originally Posted by darcness
(Post 11813832)
I'm having trouble with my RB5 oversteering. The rear end just wants to violently break loose around tighter corners. That's really the only issue I'm having with it right now. Steering is good throughout the turn and forward traction is great. Here's how it's set up right now...
Front shocks more upright (out on the tower) Rear shocks more inclined (in on the tower) Front camber link long, higher on the tower Rear camber link long, higher on the tower Front camber 1 degree Rear camber 2 degrees The track I'm running on is a pretty smooth clay indoor track, but traction is lacking some days, especially after they water the track. I would classify the track as medium traction bordering on slippery. After reading the thread I'm thinking I should probably raise my roll center in the rear. That means taking my spacers out and LOWERING the link on the tower. That should make the rear end a bit more predictable and keep it from breaking loose so violently. It's good up to a point, but after that it rotates way too quickly. Am I thinking correctly here? If I'm wrong please correct me and point out why. |
Here is a question for the experts that linger this thread .
more chassis role =more traction given examples I've seen in this thread Assuming traction is super high like on carpet on road racing more role is only good to a extent then car begins to traction roll. OK now if u limit the chassis role to much it will traction roll. Now that we r on a tight rope balancing beam hear is the question I have With a low inner camber link mount ( high roll center ) the tire keeps a more negative to strait up profile wile a side load is applied thru a turn , in my eyes the more contact the center of a tire keeps with the track the more traction it has available for the tire . OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip? |
I also have a question for the guys who are a bit more advanced in this thread/theory we have going on.
I'm looking to gain more off power steering, especially on turn-in. My on power steering is just fine and my mid to late corner steering is acceptable, but turning in off power I plow like a dump truck. Will spacing my front camber links higher on the tower side help me with this? The link is already as long as it can get, and the shocks are stood up pretty good (out on the tower, out on the arm). Just looking to really fine tune my setup at this point. Everything else is working beautifully. Edit: Almost forgot, what about caster? Right now I'm running 30 degrees. Would changing to 25 degrees help? |
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 11841876)
OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip?
If you are traction rolling with positive camber there may be other things in play to cause that...if you're rolling the sidewall over on a turn you are effectively lowering that corner of the chassis, shifting the weight to that point, which could cause a roll...you are also reducing the contact patch of the tire, which would cause it to dig in on a side load but not improve any forward traction. |
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 11841876)
Here is a question for the experts that linger this thread .
more chassis role =more traction given examples I've seen in this thread Assuming traction is super high like on carpet on road racing more role is only good to a extent then car begins to traction roll. OK now if u limit the chassis role to much it will traction roll. Now that we r on a tight rope balancing beam hear is the question I have With a low inner camber link mount ( high roll center ) the tire keeps a more negative to strait up profile wile a side load is applied thru a turn , in my eyes the more contact the center of a tire keeps with the track the more traction it has available for the tire . OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip? And when your rc car is rolling more it puts more weight on the outside wheels and thereby creating more grip? |
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 11841876)
OK now if u limit the chassis role to much it will traction roll.
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 11841876)
OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip?
|
Now that we r on a tight rope balancing beam hear is the question I have With a low inner camber link mount ( high roll center ) the tire keeps a more negative to strait up profile wile a side load is applied thru a turn , in my eyes the more contact the center of a tire keeps with the track the more traction it has available for the tire . OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip? Typically I mover my roll center to get the most even wear on the tire, I will first try moving weight around to induce/reduse roll, then if I cannot get the desired result, I will move my links around! I'm looking to gain more off power steering, especially on turn-in. My on power steering is just fine and my mid to late corner steering is acceptable, but turning in off power I plow like a dump truck. Will spacing my front camber links higher on the tower side help me with this? The link is already as long as it can get, and the shocks are stood up pretty good (out on the tower, out on the arm). Just looking to really fine tune my setup at this point. Everything else is working beautifully. Edit: Almost forgot, what about caster? Right now I'm running 30 degrees. Would changing to 25 degrees help? |
Originally Posted by 400units
(Post 11843605)
I disagree with your premise. Why do you suggest that reducing roll too much causes traction rolling? The physics should be the same regardless of the surface type. Less roll= less weight transfer= less traction, not less roll to a certain point and then massive traction kicks in.
Traction roll is a difficult problem because depending on when it happens in the turn, it could require 2 opposite approaches to fix. (although removing front traction typically always cures it, but at the expense of a push). |
Originally Posted by darcness
(Post 11842626)
Will spacing my front camber links higher on the tower side help me with this? The link is already as long as it can get, and the shocks are stood up pretty good (out on the tower, out on the arm). |
Originally Posted by jlfx car audio
(Post 11841876)
Here is a question for the experts that linger this thread .
more chassis role =more traction given examples I've seen in this thread Assuming traction is super high like on carpet on road racing more role is only good to a extent then car begins to traction roll. OK now if u limit the chassis role to much it will traction roll. Now that we r on a tight rope balancing beam hear is the question I have With a low inner camber link mount ( high roll center ) the tire keeps a more negative to strait up profile wile a side load is applied thru a turn , in my eyes the more contact the center of a tire keeps with the track the more traction it has available for the tire . OK if u run a high inner link ( low roll center ) the tire is more actively changing Camber as a side load is applied thru the turn meaning the Camber goes in the positives (leaning out ) making the contact patch transfer to only the outer area of the tire . How does this promote more grip? The space we play with on most cars even a high to low roll center change is not a huge variance in camber gain, looking at rccrewcheif they have a model of the Yok Bmax, changing from full short link high roll center to long link, low roll center is only a .44 dg change in gain (for every 3mm of arm movement). I believe if static camber is in the normal 1-2dg range that you are still using most of the center part of the tire. |
Originally Posted by MikeXray
(Post 11843650)
The problem is when there is still too much traction even given the less roll, the energy is trying to go somewhere, if the chassis cannot roll to absorb it, it gets transferred to the tires, which dig into the track and the car rolls.
. |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:51 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.