Decreasing front droop won't affect braking though will it? Wouldn't he need to decrease rear droop if that's the problem?

Are you getting the terms reversed? By decreasing front droop he would be raising the front. Lowering the rear a bit could help too. Everything comes with a price though. The goal would be to keep more of the weight rearward during braking. The problem is that we don't know how is turn exit performance is under power. It's possible to make a change for one thing but ruin it for the other.

O.k. so with more droop (ammount the arms hang down with truck in the air)the truck handled worse, I tried that in a previous session. Are you meaning to change ride height?
I was under the impression that lowering the rear inner link hole would help the negative camber increase as the compression increased on the outer tire allowing it to slide easier/more predictably in turns. I will go back to my previous setup. I am trying to get my rear to slide more predictably instead of sticking real hard and either traction rolling or breaking loose. On tight turns it will turn inside an ae4x4 and I can predictably make it whip around if needed. It's just less predictable on higher speed sweepers. Keep in mind I am really pushing the limits while testing and I am over driving at times too.

my tires have been wearing dead center front and rear with the previous setup running 1.5 degrees neg.camber front and rear fwiw.

He wasn't talking about suspension droop. He was talking about your ride height.

If your tire wear was pretty even with the old setup go back to it. Play with your sway bars if you have them. If you do have them, and you have one at each end, try removing one of them while leaving the other just to learn the effects of stiffening one end over the other. Then repeat but at the other end. Start by removing the back. Keep in mind not all roll bars are the same. Their diameter has a big effect. The smallest diameter that you need is best though.

Fred, i just talked to Marcus and got what he was saying. I have played with my swaybars and am familiar with how they work and have them set where I like them. I am running a thicker(stiffer) one in back and a softer one up front. I have the fronts with 6mm exposed ends and the rears flush to the ends. The front tends to push if I stiffen the swaybar any more and the rear rolls too much if I go any lighter. my rear inner tire comes off the ground during really hard cornering so maybe that will help give some clues as to what changes might help.

I will put the links back where they were and play with the swaybars next time out since that's easiest to adjust, and if that doesn't help, then I will reduce the front droop.

If your inner rear tire comes off the ground in corners you either have a front end that has too little roll stiffness or a back end that has too much. The rear sway bar needs to get lighter or the front one heavier.

How does it corner when under power out of a turn?

It has a slight push under hard acceleration. I am running a slightly heavier diff oil up front than rear.

You've got under steer when on power exiting the corners but over steer when off power entering them. Which truck do you have, a Slash 2WD?

slash 4x4 with lcg chassis

When I run a lighter front diff oil up front, the front end pushes less coming out of turns but it seemed to diff out more and the ammount of on throttle push has been minimal, but it will break loose before the rear will.

Have you played with the tightness of your diffs?

I'm actually going to defer to Marcus on this one as he has far more 4WD experience than I do.

Fred, my slash 2wd will under steer coming into turns and over steer (hook around)coming out. My suspension(shocks) works great on it as far as jumping level and going through bumps is concerned. Ideas on this one would be helpful.

I think I ws editing my last post while you responded to it. lol

A problem with the Slash is that it was designed for bashing and not serious racing and as a result lacks some tuning capability. I'm a bit confused. Is it a 2WD or a 4WD or do you have both?

less droop not more droop, dont change ANYTHING in your setup til you get the droop right, your going to end up in a tuning tornado! less droop AKA less arm drop in the front.

the slash is more than capable than performing good enough to win races, it is what i had before i got my Hyper! only thing i did not like about it was the telescoping drive shafts and the tendency to chew up pinions and spur gears.

Nytrider just payed attention to what you typed, you definately dont want a lighter sway bar in the front than the back, front should always be equal to or thicker than the rear.

he is not having an issue with straight line braking its high speed turning at the end of the straight, inside rear tire is already coming off the ground, decreasing rear droop is only going to make it worse. the limiting factor in that situation is trying to keep the front from diving so much and decreasing front droop will fix that problem, i have to do it every other weekend on my truck because one track has so much more grip than the other , the only adjustments i make are to go up in shock oil and decrease front droop.

Fred, I have both. My 2wd has the strc/rustler lcg kit with prolinechassis kit, and my slash 4x4 has the ssclcg chassis on it. Not many slash parts left on either one really. I originally bought both for bashing, but the high cg on both chassis and the traction rolling issues with both drove me nuts. I'm pretty happy with both setups now, but just need to fine tune them both.

Sorry for the confusion. My 2WD turns in real slow (even with a quick servo) and then whips around, where my 4wd turns in real quick with slight push exiting turns.