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Old 01-15-2014 | 11:45 AM
  #1561  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
So for a quick comparison of some standard 12mm buggy pistons:

1.6x2 = 3.2 surface area (more pack)

1.4x3 = 4.2

1.3x4 = 5.2 (less pack)
pack is not a static thing. Bigger holes tend to pack at higher shock shaft speeds than smaller or multiple holes (more turbulance).

that's why 1.6mmx2 pistons are so popular. they don't pack up on the little stuff but when you get the higher shaft speeds from jumps they pack up.

it's always a balance in relation to hole quantity vs size and what shaft speeds you want your shocks to pack at.


point is, it's not about more or less pack as much as it is WHEN they pack.

Edit: Also, don't confuse damping with pack. The quoted list is correct for damping, not pack.

Damping is how much the oil/piston combo slows down the shock movement.

Pack is when the piston hydraulically locks in the shock body and stops compressing.

tune each separate for best results.
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Old 01-15-2014 | 11:55 AM
  #1562  
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy
heres a piston pack chart. The larger the number, the less pack it has
Could you add 1.7mm as well?

Thx!
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Old 01-15-2014 | 11:55 AM
  #1563  
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy
heres a piston pack chart. The larger the number, the less pack it has
This is why I keep it simple and run only 1 hole configuration all around. No need to complicate things.
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Old 01-15-2014 | 05:00 PM
  #1564  
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There are so many variables you could cause an aneurism if you try and sort out all the variables testing them one at a time yourself, making notes and compiling data.
Basically if you want to be competitive run a Setup that the pros use and focus on driving and tires.
Thousands of hours testing shock pack will be negated by one bump of a pipe, or a back marker.

Unless you just race to tinker and are the type that like the engineering more than the Racing.

I know I know, technical thread shut up. lol
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Old 01-15-2014 | 08:01 PM
  #1565  
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
Unless you just race to tinker and are the type that like the engineering more than the Racing.
Damn skippy!
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Old 01-15-2014 | 08:46 PM
  #1566  
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dp
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Old 01-15-2014 | 08:48 PM
  #1567  
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Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
There are so many variables you could cause an aneurism if you try and sort out all the variables testing them one at a time yourself, making notes and compiling data.
Basically if you want to be competitive run a Setup that the pros use and focus on driving and tires.
Thousands of hours testing shock pack will be negated by one bump of a pipe, or a back marker.

Unless you just race to tinker and are the type that like the engineering more than the Racing.

I know I know, technical thread shut up. lol
There actually aren't that many variables once you know what to do with them. The key isn't in learning what to do. It's learning what not to waste your time doing.

Copying guarantees that you are always behind someone that knows more.

Shock pack isn't affected by a pipe. It doesn't take thousands of hours to tune a car unless you are typical trial and error.

Racing? What's that?
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Old 01-15-2014 | 10:10 PM
  #1568  
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Why work things out when u can copy a "pro"? Well does that pro drive at the same track. Does he have ur same driving style? Same electronics? I mean I love to race but if ur just copying setups how well do u really know ur kits? To me tuning is half the fun
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Old 01-16-2014 | 07:00 AM
  #1569  
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I like watching kinda fast guys with lots of money chase their set ups ... The 3 ring binder of set up sheets , the frantic pit chatter of "what should I do ?", the bad advice, the unwillingness to listen . Suspension is a funny thing , the more simple you make it seem to someone , the less the think you know what your doing . Like it has to be rocket science , otherwise they would have known it already.

This hobby is fun for so many different reasons ....
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Old 01-16-2014 | 07:56 AM
  #1570  
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Help me out here, so for a sc10 rear

camber links out on hub = more forward traction,less side bite, harder to rotate
camber links in on hub = less forward traction,but more side bite, rotates better

lowering link on inner ballstud = more roll more rear traction, less steering
raising link on inner ball stud = less rear traction
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Old 01-16-2014 | 12:19 PM
  #1571  
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anyone??
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Old 01-16-2014 | 12:28 PM
  #1572  
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I will tentatively agree however, I don't like broad generalizations like that as there is more to it than that.
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Old 01-16-2014 | 12:37 PM
  #1573  
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A short rear link should increase on power rear grip.
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Old 01-16-2014 | 12:38 PM
  #1574  
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Originally Posted by fredswain
I will tentatively agree however, I don't like broad generalizations like that as there is more to it than that.
i was asking if i had it right. if not i would like to be corrected.trying to learn
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Old 01-16-2014 | 12:40 PM
  #1575  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
A short rear link should increase on power rear grip.
i run short now and it seems to rotate good in slow turns but fast or on power it seems to hook good. thats why i wrote it that way.
are you saying straight line grip is improved?
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