correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldnt a heavier pack be advantageous for aceleration on a really dusty track, just because with the batteries so close to the rear in this buggy, it should put a bit more weight over the wheels???? Less Wheel Spin = Faster Acceleration?

This is one of the oldest debates in RC and there really is no answer. Its all about balance, you need the right weight in the right places. If your running a stock class then usually lighter is better as you don't have a whack of power on hand but in a mod class where you have virtually unlimited power then a bit of extra weight is normally helpful.

I usually will look for different tires 1st before adding weight.

Does anyone know about the measurement of 13.5 and 14.0 on the swaybar mount that is listed in this setup? It says to measure from the bottom of the arm to the adjusting nut, but if I unscrew the nut to the 13.5 it's incredibly loose and I can turn it easily with my fingers. Also what is the significance of that adjustment?

Ya, when it is that loose you may need to put some vibratite or something like that on the threads, something to bind up the nut. When there is that much gap the car will act like it doesn't have a roll bar when the chassis is close to level. It would be like running a slightly thinner roll bar, but would still have roll control when the car is really leaning over. It should also free up the suspension in rough tracks.

I have a v1 and purchased some diffs off ebay. The number of teeth on the crown gear is crown 43. I have 44 in my car. I know this is an optional part as indicated in the Manuel.

What difference will this make (acceleration/top speed)

Would you ever run one 43 and one 44... Ie front and rear...

FYI I basically bought these for the out drives.. Just curious....

It is stock on the truggy, option on the buggy. Think of it like a spur gear, less teeth for more top end, more teeth for more torque. It will change the FDR, though I am not sure that is a factor so much for ebuggy unlike TC or some other 4wd vehicles.

I would not recommend running different front to rear, though some have and I think it is called "overdrive" where you set the front usually do the smaller size so that it rotates faster and has more of a pull effect on the car. This is to enhance stability in the rear, under acceleration. I am not sure how this would work under cornering, but it should also accelerate driveline wear as you are intentionally trying to turn both sides at different speeds.

This is with TC though, not sure how the center diff will react in this situation, so I coujld be completely wrong. It is used on 1:1 offroad and mud racing, but where traction is usually lower.

what changes to setup should be the first to consider when running this car on a small twisty outdoor track. Hardpacked clay with a lot of dust on top of it.

I dont have much of a reference in 1:8 OR but atm the car feels a bit like a boat in all that dust. Since it is hard clay the track gets blown out pretty fast and gets very bumpy. Thanks :)

Check out the JQ tuners guide its a good read. Go to the JQ website search tuning guide.

Always make on adjustment at a time note changes. I always start with easiest to hardest (Oils) keep things simple and you wont get frustrated.

Thanks! i think i have to read that guide a couple of times to get things sorted!

Could one skip the lower screws that keep the front diff housing together?
isnt the lower part of the housing kept together by the chassis screw already?
Im wondering since i think the act of changing diff would be easier when you dont have to detach the whole front from the chassis :)

That 4 long screws are keeping the proper gear mesh between the ring gear and the pinion gear.

There are only 2 long screws that we are talking about.

4 screws ? I mean the 2 long at the bottom of the front diff housing.

I can see how they adjust gear mesh. At least when the housing isn't attached to the chassis .
Aren't the housing just squeezed together when I fasten it to the chassis? I believe that 2 screws each that goes through the chassis goes into each part of the housing.
Sry for stupid sentences. English isn't my mother tounge :)

The 4 bottom counter sink screws are holding the housing to the chassis only but don't squeeze the housing together. Beside the front part suspension mount is mount to the front part of the housing and the rear part of the suspension mount is mount to the rear part of the housing, that 2 long screws are what holding them together. IMO I won't skip that 2 screws DNF is not my option.