Daniel said the T8i was running hot, do you think venting the body will help cool it down?

A lot of times it is cheaper to just get a mugen or kyosho titanium screw kit. Most of the screws fit.

Pic of the 600681? No pic on the site, or whats different?

Thanks

Text from a friend
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...hak/null-3.jpg

Jaders was running 210 after 10 minutes. Mine came off at 170 :D But I also lost by a lap soooooo LOL

I have a some venting on my body. Honestly its great for the weight savings but that motor was never intended to be run on big outdoor 1/8th layouts. And for sure not on the current layout at Mills. Its FAST and your strapped up quite a bit.

I'm gonna switch ESC's to a Gen 2 Rx8 from this little hobbywing SCT Pro. It just doesn't have enough adjustment. I'm not ready to give up on it yet as I really like the way my car is working with all this weight I've shed. I understand the new ESC tray and servo mount are stupid light also.


Fast Pete you'll have to go back several pages there are pictures of it installed in a car. It's 3 separate pieces now all Carbon and an Aluminum mount for the servo. It's SUPER trick

stupid double post

Ouch $94 for the radio tray!!!

Either way the serpent looks way more nimble with the lighter motor and shorty packs. I'm running the typical 1900 and full stick packs, and you can feel how heavy the car is around the track. Good, but can be better :sneaky:

I'm not sure how heavy Jader's Xray is, but maybe running shorty packs would help his temps out some as well.

Servo Problems
 

I entered by Cobra in its first race this past weekend. I ruined two Futaba BLS servos. Any recommendations or suggestions? I've read a bit and see some mention of a harder servo saver spring. It stripping servo gears a common problem?

Thanks,
PW

I've never run the hard servo saver spring nor is mine completely locked down. it's a mm or 2 past whats recommended in the manual with blue locktite holding it in place. I also run a Futaba BLS 351 servo. It's been flawless. I did strip the stock plastic horn early on and have been using the Serpent Aluminum horn ever since. Again zero problems. Double and triple check you EPA adjustment and make sure your not over stressing them is my only advice.

I've always run the hard spring. No issues using Radio Post servos. And I always overextend my EPA a little even to lock the wheels left and right. Do this by setting EPAs with car sitting on ground. Usually the setting is a little different (higher EPA) than when the car is on a stand.

http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...cat=90&page=38

Are you BLEEPIN kiddin me? No way I'm paying $94 bucks + S&H .. the stock plastic stuff for $50 bucks is too much as well! yikes!

No inflation my a$$ ... FU BEN BERNANKE!!!

Lol, it comes with the carbon battery straps too, must be why it costs so much. :weird: Kyosho gets away with insane pricing I guess the rest are going to follow.

Are you guys making run time with shorties? I have some new 4000mah shorties and with a castle 2200, with torque control and punch control on I could only get 9:50 runtime. and I couldn't tell a big difference.

Castle really needs to come out with a 1900 or so. And you could probably gear down to a 14 or 15 with the 2200, then run time wouldn't be a problem. I was sure you went longer than 10min with the shorties. With the 2200 you are only using 1/4 throttle. lol

On the price of the new speedo/servo mount. There are actually a lot of pieces in there to do this. New receiver tray, speedo tray, servo mount, battery straps, center diff hold downs, and hardware. If it is Serpent you know it is top quality stuff.