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-   -   Serpent 811E Buggy Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/517713-serpent-811e-buggy-thread.html)

rcq 02-12-2013 11:36 AM


Originally Posted by rcq (Post 11806343)
I have starter to bild diffs with new gears and I have problem. If I turn the screw to the end the diffs is locking. Where could be the problem?

Maybe I do not need to use shim 600213 under 600202 gear?

Maxxingout 02-12-2013 11:36 AM


I have starter to bild diffs with new gears and I have problem. If I turn the screw to the end the diffs is locking. Where could be the problem?
Did you use any washers behind the gears? I believe with the new gears/cases you don't want to use any washers. Those are for the older cases.

rcq 02-12-2013 11:42 AM


Originally Posted by Maxxingout (Post 11806473)
Did you use any washers behind the gears? I believe with the new gears/cases you don't want to use any washers. Those are for the older cases.

There is text in serpent site Before the 10T gears were mounted with a backing shim, but are now mounted without shims. So like I understand I have to use shimps behind 20T gears. What about diff case. Dose in E-buggy diff case v1 or all e-buggys have v2 diff case.

rcq 02-12-2013 11:48 AM

OH I find in Nitro cobra manual. There is no need to use any shims, behind 20t and 10t gears. Thanks anyway.

SouthFloridaApp 02-15-2013 05:44 PM

I have a few questions for experienced owners.

This is what I wanted to purchase, but it seems out of stock everywhere so I purchased a Hotbodies product ... see below.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...=67168&x=0&y=0

This is the serpent one that was on backorder...


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Horn-24T-Hitec

After trying many many many configurations I got it to work (Hotbidies part), but there is approx. one mm (only) between the drive shaft and the servo horn. As of now there is no drive shaft wobble, but who knows what will happen in the future. The stock servo horn did not do the job as the plastic part that goes into the servo is stripped (I purchased a near new vehicle from someone).... We all know that the plastic (stock) servo horn/lever is not a great solution. I basically have about 1mm of clearance on both sides of the servo horn, and button head screw on the top of the servo horn lever... What should have taken about fifteen minutes to install took hours of trial and error. In fact I had to take out the rubber grommets that go on the servo ears due to clearance issues. I don't know if this will be a problem.
.

My questions are as follows:

Did I purchase the correct Hotbodies Servo horn? Should I purchase the Serpent servo horn now and if so where can I get one? Did anyone dremel out their radio tray?

The quality of this car is great, but what a pain dealing with this issue....

Thanks in advance.... fyi I don't know how to attach pics on this site...

chicky03 02-15-2013 09:06 PM


Originally Posted by SouthFloridaApp (Post 11820910)
I have a few questions for experienced owners.

This is what I wanted to purchase, but it seems out of stock everywhere so I purchased a Hotbodies product ... see below.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...=67168&x=0&y=0

This is the serpent one that was on backorder...


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Horn-24T-Hitec

After trying many many many configurations I got it to work (Hotbidies part), but there is approx. one mm (only) between the drive shaft and the servo horn. As of now there is no drive shaft wobble, but who knows what will happen in the future. The stock servo horn did not do the job as the plastic part that goes into the servo is stripped (I purchased a near new vehicle from someone).... We all know that the plastic (stock) servo horn/lever is not a great solution. I basically have about 1mm of clearance on both sides of the servo horn, and button head screw on the top of the servo horn lever... What should have taken about fifteen minutes to install took hours of trial and error. In fact I had to take out the rubber grommets that go on the servo ears due to clearance issues. I don't know if this will be a problem.
.

My questions are as follows:

Did I purchase the correct Hotbodies Servo horn? Should I purchase the Serpent servo horn now and if so where can I get one? Did anyone dremel out their radio tray?

The quality of this car is great, but what a pain dealing with this issue....

Thanks in advance.... fyi I don't know how to attach pics on this site...

Originally I used a hudy steering servo horn, it's the straight one. I just had to space the servo so it would not hit the radio box. It worked great. Now that the serpent one is out just use that one.:nod:

bigjayjay1 02-15-2013 09:32 PM

I use the HB horn, I bought this kit when it was first released. I haven't had any issues. Yes it's pretty close to the center Front shaft but there isn't anything to worry about the front doesn't have a lot of flex due to the front suspension top plate and post within this area.

one8updragracer 02-17-2013 08:26 AM

Ok guys long time since i have been here. I have an original 811 nitro that i raced for a summer and has been sitting in storage for around a year due to me getting burnt out. I am getting the rc bug again and am considering going electric because one of my biggest problems was getting a competent pit buddy at the track. Now here is my issue. Would it be better to keep my nitro car and convert it or get a new ebuggy? I still have all my race gear so really the biggest expense would b the electronics and supporting gear for that.. i really gonna miss the noise and tuning, but if it makes everything else easier by going e-power I'll give it a shot.
Looking for opinions so fire away! Thanks

one8updragracer 02-17-2013 08:28 AM

Also the nitro version holds up and wears excellent. How does the e powered hold up with the added power of the lipo system?

SouthFloridaApp 02-17-2013 09:06 AM


Originally Posted by one8updragracer (Post 11825633)
Ok guys long time since i have been here. I have an original 811 nitro that i raced for a summer and has been sitting in storage for around a year due to me getting burnt out. I am getting the rc bug again and am considering going electric because one of my biggest problems was getting a competent pit buddy at the track. Now here is my issue. Would it be better to keep my nitro car and convert it or get a new ebuggy? I still have all my race gear so really the biggest expense would b the electronics and supporting gear for that.. i really gonna miss the noise and tuning, but if it makes everything else easier by going e-power I'll give it a shot.
Looking for opinions so fire away! Thanks

I have heard that a few guys like the RCMonster conversion.

Racermac73 02-17-2013 10:51 AM

Electric version holds up great, I've still not broke anything..... i don't know anything about the nitro conversion but the e version is purpose built and there is a 2.0 upgrade out for either version

Panda-PR 02-21-2013 06:42 PM

Is there a 2.0 kit or TE coming out? Love the TE truggy and considering this one to replace the mugen eco

gapwmu 02-22-2013 09:25 AM

I have also been wondering if a 2.0 version is in the works. I know there is a 2.0 conversion, but at a 150$ price tag on top of a new kit, price is steep.

Anyone racing in or around Cincinnati?

Racermac73 02-22-2013 09:53 AM

Kit should be out anytime from what i understand. you can always call serpent america to find out for sure and to get release date

performula 02-26-2013 08:54 PM

Who has the best deal on the Sport now? Any updates needed?


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