R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric Off-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road-4/)
-   -   Serpent 811E Buggy Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/517713-serpent-811e-buggy-thread.html)

bigjayjay1 04-27-2012 02:57 PM


Originally Posted by PrestonG (Post 10660940)
Does anyone have troubles with suspension binding? When i push down on the back of the buggy it really doesn't spring back well. Seems like the arms are pretty tight on the pins, etc. Was thinking I may need to ream out everything.

Some arms have a tight fit with their hinge pins the TI pins will help also you can use a arm reamer on the arms so the pins float free. When you run dirty will get trapped dont use grease pull pins out and clean arms and pins use a dry lub for dirt reflection. Hope that helps

PrestonG 04-27-2012 03:00 PM


Originally Posted by bigjayjay1 (Post 10661098)
Some arms have a tight fit with their hinge pins the TI pins will help also you can use a arm reamer on the arms so the pins float free. When you run dirty will get trapped dont use grease pull pins out and clean arms and pins use a dry lub for dirt reflection. Hope that helps

that is what i was thinking I would try. The TI pins make a big difference?

RCmayor 04-27-2012 04:23 PM


Originally Posted by PrestonG (Post 10661108)
that is what i was thinking I would try. The TI pins make a big difference?

Reaming is going to make a bigger difference than the ti pins. Use a #21 drill bit if you don't have a reamer, A #20 if they are still tight.

porkchop 04-27-2012 04:26 PM

ok i been pretty sick and still i am in physical rehab but i am back for the most part if you guys need help i do the best i can.

PrestonG 04-27-2012 04:30 PM


Originally Posted by RCmayor (Post 10661343)
Reaming is going to make a bigger difference than the ti pins. Use a #21 drill bit if you don't have a reamer, A #20 if they are still tight.

I'm going to go out and buy some drill bits :)

KIK 04-27-2012 06:16 PM


Originally Posted by RCmayor (Post 10661343)
Reaming is going to make a bigger difference than the ti pins. Use a #21 drill bit if you don't have a reamer, A #20 if they are still tight.


Originally Posted by PrestonG (Post 10661369)
I'm going to go out and buy some drill bits :)

The hinge pins were designed to fit in the arms snug. That's why the ends are rounded so they can pivot and rotate in the plastic inserts.

Maybe the arms are rubbing on the inner/outer hinge pin holders. If so, take a little off the where it is rubbing. Since you've tried it with the sway bars completely disconnected, also try disconnecting the rear hub. Eliminate each part til you can find the culprit.

PrestonG 04-27-2012 06:23 PM


Originally Posted by KIK (Post 10661719)
The hinge pins were designed to fit in the arms snug. That's why the ends are rounded so they can pivot and rotate in the plastic inserts.

Maybe the arms are rubbing on the inner/outer hinge pin holders. If so, take a little off the where it is rubbing. Since you've tried it with the sway bars completely disconnected, also try disconnecting the rear hub. Eliminate each part til you can find the culprit.

The ends of the pins are binding so bad, it was hard as heck just to pull off the plastic inserts on the end. Someone elses serpent I checked and his seemed to bind just as bad. If thats really how this is meant to work, maybe serpent should redesign the ends and put bearings in there. because honestly that is a horrible design :)

Its pretty much been binding since the day i put it together. I guess I could ream out those holes too.

Vortexted 04-27-2012 09:32 PM

Webbed bladder install
 
With the webbed bladders, do you think the holes should face down into the oil, or up into the cap?

I installed holes down into the oil, but now I looked at the way CRE installed mine on my truggy and they have holes up into the cap.

puttekula 04-28-2012 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by porkchop (Post 10661353)
ok i been pretty sick and still i am in physical rehab but i am back for the most part if you guys need help i do the best i can.

Hey Pork. Hope for a quick recovery! All the best ....

KIK 04-28-2012 08:25 PM


Originally Posted by Vortexted (Post 10662365)
With the webbed bladders, do you think the holes should face down into the oil, or up into the cap?

I installed holes down into the oil, but now I looked at the way CRE installed mine on my truggy and they have holes up into the cap.

Holes go up!!

andrewc151 04-29-2012 10:08 PM

serpent bodies.
 

Originally Posted by nasty4wd (Post 10646580)
Has anyone heard of any others coming out with any bodies for the 811 BE so we would have more than one choice for bodies? I emailed JConcepts but never heard anything back.

the JConcepts team Durango DNX408 Illuzion Hi-Flow Body fits on the the Serpent s811-e like a champ with a few little modifications. Since the servo stands up so tall you have to cut a small block out or create a little bubble with a torch. I think it looks sweet!


i will post a picture soon

Sideswipe_ 04-30-2012 05:06 AM

I have finally hit the track yesterday, the car was really turning well and had good traction. however I had a big issue with motor slipping under braking.. I used blue locktite inside the screw but it didn't help..it happened like 5-6 times.finally I gave up. I checked the building but there is no wrong thing.
where shall I exactly apply blue locktite ? shall I apply it also around the metal ring that the screw goes into? I am using Tekin 2050kv fyi.

many thanks in advance.

mrnizzles 04-30-2012 12:45 PM

red is best for motors!
 
I used red locktite on everything related to mounting the motor.

no issues after more than 2 hours of running now..

I debuted running my car on the track for the first time in the C main at the Nocal Champs series... unfortunately, I am an electric newb, and didnt have my lipos charged correctly, and 2 banana/deans connectors were bad, so I missed my qualifiers.

First time on the track racing in the C main, I ran 12 laps, 1 more than my 11 with my nitro ttr S3... this car can really FLY, holy cow.

running a 2050 motor, and I was just starting to run everyone down on straightaways... but I think Im gonna gear up to 17 or 18, lol..

I cleared the triple, even cleared the quad no problem.. loved it!

when I want to remove something with red locktite, I just soak in PB blaster and use my heat gun a few seconds, and a really good tight driver and VOILA!

blue locktite is for suspension stuff.. not motors, elec or nitro.

_

Magnus F 04-30-2012 01:10 PM

Loctite
 
I am using blue locktite.
It works 100% for me and everybody i race with.

naterater 04-30-2012 05:31 PM

Well I ran my first "race" yesterday with the 811e. I put race in quotes because it's just a bunch of friends racing on the backyard 1/8 track of a friend. But he has a AMB lap counting system, it's just a great setup!
As far as the car goes, I love it! It's more nimble than the 8.2e, and I feel it flies more balanced than the 8.2e as well. I wasn't the fastest guy out there, but I did win the first heat, because I was the only one of the four who didn't break. Second heat I came in third, high point in that one is I did run fastest lap. Main I pulled a DNF. A screw backed out of the rt upper arm link at the shock tower. But so far, I'm happy. Now to just get those 65C Gens Ace batts.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:01 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.