18Likes"How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch"
06-17-2011, 07:54 AM
#61
great info. I will be pulling down my diff this weekend
. By the way got the link from Caster racing site from a racer in Lithuania it's getting out there good work
. By the way got the link from Caster racing site from a racer in Lithuania it's getting out there good work
06-17-2011, 08:07 AM
#62
Tech Master
Thread Starter
great info. I will be pulling down my diff this weekend. By the way got the link from Caster racing site from a racer in Lithuania it's getting out there good work
Racer53
06-18-2011, 08:28 PM
#63
Great info. Thanks for doing the video's (hopefully the next ones will have better sound ) 
)
06-19-2011, 05:52 AM
#65
What are some indications on the track that the slipper clutch is too tight or too loose? That's my problem. If the rear end breaks loose accelerating from a dead stop should I loosen my slipper until my truck pulls away straight? Track conditions are normally dusty.
06-19-2011, 02:22 PM
#66
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Great info. Thanks for doing the video's (hopefully the next ones will have better sound )
)
Great videos and thank you for them
Just a noob question when setting the slipper does the same settings you explained translate to 4WD slipper and or double slipper? I have a Tamiya DB01 with a double slipper and I am not sure it is set correctly.
Just a noob question when setting the slipper does the same settings you explained translate to 4WD slipper and or double slipper? I have a Tamiya DB01 with a double slipper and I am not sure it is set correctly.
What are some indications on the track that the slipper clutch is too tight or too loose? That's my problem. If the rear end breaks loose accelerating from a dead stop should I loosen my slipper until my truck pulls away straight? Track conditions are normally dusty.
Thanks for all replies...
Racer53
06-19-2011, 04:47 PM
#67
Thanks, shock angle on arms, anti-squat.
06-25-2011, 03:17 PM
#68
Great vids....helped me out a ton, got my diff all straightened out...smooth as silk now. THANX A TON!!!
06-25-2011, 06:50 PM
#69
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Thanks, shock angle on arms, anti-squat
Great vids....helped me out a ton, got my diff all straightened out...smooth as silk now. THANX A TON!!!
06-26-2011, 05:51 AM
#70
Absolutly AWSOME! A+ and big thanks. Iv'e searched for one before on youtube and nothing but i click on e off road and find it instantly. Man thats why i love these forums and people. THANKS lol im ganna be a newbie to this 10th 2wd stuff and wanted to know how to do this and now i know!
06-28-2011, 06:45 AM
#72
watched it twice. pulled down the worn rtr b4. went out and bought a new b4 from an on roader who'd put it together incorrectly. just combined the parts and followed your instructions.
had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??
diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??
diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
06-29-2011, 07:04 AM
#73
Tech Master
Thread Starter
Absolutly AWSOME! A+ and big thanks. Iv'e searched for one before on youtube and nothing but i click on e off road and find it instantly. Man thats why i love these forums and people. THANKS lol im ganna be a newbie to this 10th 2wd stuff and wanted to know how to do this and now i know!
Glad I found this thread before I got my Factory Team SC10! Can't..... Wait.... Need..... Truck..... NOW!
I had to use earphones and turn the volume all the way up on my computer and Youtube.
I had to use earphones and turn the volume all the way up on my computer and Youtube.
Eventually I would like to remake these...
watched it twice. pulled down the worn rtr b4. went out and bought a new b4 from an on roader who'd put it together incorrectly. just combined the parts and followed your instructions.
had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??
diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
had to use Hirosieko "Dr Grease" differential paste bought from onroad r/c car shop. couldn't get AE diif lube. it felt thicker but it is winter here down under. hope it's not too thick??
diff felt a lot better. will test during saturday racing here in Sydney, Australia. hoping for a 43 second lap. thanks racer53.
Thanks to all replies, Racer53
06-29-2011, 10:54 AM
#74
I have 50wt oil, but has anyone heard about Moo-Slick? I have heard nothing but good things about it, and I think it would be a better alternative, it basically sprays a thin layer of non-greasy silicone film that dries and becomes, hence the name, really slick. It works on anything, spraying suspension hinges, bearings, transmissions, squeeky doors, chairs, literally anything. It's worth a shot, they even sell a "corral" pack of Moo-Slick, Moo-ter Cleaner and Degreaser, and Cow Duster (way stronger than any canned duster you can buy at a market). But you have to buy at least 3 of one product at a time or get the all-in-one. 
I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
06-30-2011, 06:59 PM
#75
Tech Master
Thread Starter
I have 50wt oil, but has anyone heard about Moo-Slick? I have heard nothing but good things about it, and I think it would be a better alternative, it basically sprays a thin layer of non-greasy silicone film that dries and becomes, hence the name, really slick. It works on anything, spraying suspension hinges, bearings, transmissions, squeeky doors, chairs, literally anything. It's worth a shot, they even sell a "corral" pack of Moo-Slick, Moo-ter Cleaner and Degreaser, and Cow Duster (way stronger than any canned duster you can buy at a market). But you have to buy at least 3 of one product at a time or get the all-in-one.
I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
I am not trying to advertise their products, I'm letting people know of an alternative or even something possibly better than using 50wt. shock oil for lubricating the gears.
