aftermarket aluminum is not always the answer.

If you find you are on a surface that you need to lose some rear bite, you will want the longer ball studs that go on the rear shock tower so you can safely raise the ball stud height on the rear shock tower. I was up to like 5mm or 6mm on high traction carpet.

When you say its wanting to wait more in the turn, am I assuming its pushing through the turn if you try to get on power too soon versus the rear following the front where you want it to go?

I ran the vehicle on carpet and have a setup you could try especially if you have a center diff,though, the vehicle seems designed already with high traction in mind, feel free to post your setup too.

wonder if that smaller front pulley gear, I think the 19T could help?

but would want to see your setup first.

what Shark did and ran with recently looked very promising, and combining that in some manner with your Mod1 gears coudl be quite killer. Looking forward to seeing pics and vids of what you come up with!

Go with the outerwear filter. it allows the air to flow but keeps the crap out. Not cheap, but worth it in my opinion.

+1 :)

Based on how rear heavy the vehicle is, it seems quite popular to go with a 540 sized Pro4 motor to help get a bit more bias to the front.

I liked the feel of the Tekin Pro4 4000Kv motor in mine. If you are on a larger track, the 4600Kv may be better choice.

But, you can tune in more top end to the 4000kv by using VERY LITTLE TIMING in the higher RPM ranges. that way, I did this for my top end and it kept my temps low since you are adding it to the higher RPM ranges. I used like 5 degrees total.

I concur with Cain on the Outerwears underbody. It's made of a flexible mesh that lets the air in and keeps the dirt out. Like the c-diff, it's not cheap but it's well worth the expense. My Losi and Tekno-driving buddies are jealous because they don't make one for their trucks. Suckers!

Marcus, get going on the reverse motor design. I have been running my 4 gear since January and it is really working out well. Altitude control is great with it. Gears are holding up well, but your right it takes a lot of fine tuning to get the mesh right and there is a lot of wasted energy (friction) being generated by the extra gear. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

Broken 3 trucks are you hitting mailboxes :)

Got me to thinking on mine been racing it for about 4 mths usually 2-3 times a week. Have crashed into everything at the tracks at least once :ha:, the only thing I've replaced is one bent CVA axle that's it. I can't remember even having an arm pop off. Have replaced several bodies though.
Oh yea the first set of front and rear diffs were replaced, built them myself "right" and haven't had any issues since.

I built mine like Sharks Lite version, with the CDiff which is great.

Mine is way underpowered at the moment running an 8.5 turn LRP, but it forces me to be smooth, my driving has improved a lot in the last month or so.

Just got me a Tekno had it about a week and luv it, but its a different animal, way faster motor combo, don't won't to say easier to drive, but I run faster laptimes with it, but I think the motor combo may have a lot to do with it.

Anyways if you are throwing them in the trash, I'll pay shipping to get them to my house:nod:

Oh BTW I'd take one of them RcShox Belt drives setups when you get it sorted out.

randy

so ive had my sc10 for like a mouth now.(i got it used) But the rear transmission needs to be rebuilt. so i was thinking i should probably do the front too. So my question is should i order and replace the gear box, should i replace the gears inside. should i get the mip ball diff? Shim? What oil should i use? Are there other things i should replace? Sense it looks like im gonna have to take most the car apart. Any tips to avoid taking the whole damn car apart?
i dont really plan on doing this again for as long as i can get away with it. I mostly run on a carpet track, and sometimes a indoor clay track. And well the weather is getting nice so maybe a outdoor track, if one pops up.

I have also found the SC10 4x4 to be pretty durable, I have bent a Front/Rear CVA and stripped a rear diff (older version without the newer shims). Got my first SC10 4x4 in 2011, got another in 2012 and picked up a roller late last year. In 2011 I ran the entire year on a larger outdoor track, then in 2012 I moved to indoor clay. After a few upgrades it is a great racer.

And if you run a SC10 4x4 Ultra lite there is less wear and tear because it is a lot lighter. Less mass when you run into things.

I'm the only one running an sc104x4 at my track and have yet to break. Once I figured out the correct belt tension I was good to go.

Here is something different, I'm running my FT on an asphalt oval with no jumps in what's called an Intermediate Class that doesn't have many restrictions. I'm fighting guys running Blitz's and Traxxas with 8th scale wheels/tires and 3 cell batteries and none of them are SC10's. I have mine handing as well as possible on Street Fighter tires/wheels. Using a Center Diff, M2C toe system, left hand battery and really restricted shock travel along with Castle 3800 and MMP. Many times I keep up with them just through finesse. It's hard for them to handle 3 cell power. Going to 8th scale wheels/tires next week which should help even more in the corners. I'm not sure this truck can handle 3 cell power.

If you ever do decide to go 3 cell, this will slide right in :sneaky:

http://www.smc-racing.net/index.php?...product_id=181

What size batteries is everyone using. I bought my truck used and it came with two Gensace saddle packs 25c 4800mah and during my 7 min main i ran out of juice. It was at the sixth minute power started to drastically drop. It's running a Tekin 5.5 and a mamba max pro sct esc. Perhaps the batteries are dying?? They gave unknown runs through them and seem slightly weathered.

I ran mine with a Tekin RX8/4600 Pro4 combo, CL at 50. Had no trouble making a ten minute race with practice laps with a Nano Tech 5100 saddle. My friend, same setup, except CL at 100, made ten minutes as well.

I'm running 6800 Mah 70c SMC batteries. They are still less then 10 cycles but I'm getting through 7-8 min mains and only getting down to around 3.8 volts. I haven't run one until the low voltage shutoff engaged.

Batteries may be shot then. Time to buy a battery tester!!!