Absolutely true. I don't think this is 100% your problem, but I was able to gear down two teeth alone with the rx8 AND no longer have any Esc timing. Insane.

Mid to top end. Tops out early like it needs more gear, but temps are already around 165.

dunno about the speed issue, but I would try the rcshox cdiff.

had that similar issue. Wanted to run more gear but motor was at a temp that I felt was high. The Pro 4s from what I have been told can be good to higher temps than normal 540s, I think someone said once in the 180 range. Confirm though with Tekin.

If you are not running a fan on the motor worth, doing.

Also, I found that running very little Turbo timing at a higher RPM range gave me the top end I needed and kept temps down. The Pro4's don't like timing throughout the RPM range from what I have seen, but can benefit with timing at the top, like 5 degrees.

I had a similar experience with my Brushless hobbies 120a esc and hobbywing 4 pole motor. It just never seemed to have anywhere near the same power as my tekin pro4/rx8 combo even if I added a little boost etc....... Sold the BH esc put in my spare rx8 with the hobbywing motor and even with zero timing I def. noticed a difference in the power change. Not sure how the SP pro would do but the RX8 solved all my issue's...........

Exactly my experience as well.

Why am I the only one geting rid of power the pro4 is a beast on the mm and the rx8 and the deratax de10

Did you buy the motor new or used? Have seen a few pro4 motors with weak rotors or soft on power. Motors that have been overheated or abused will do that.

Bought the Motor and MMP both new...Truck used

I have been told by others that the Pro4 4600 is to much motor for the SC10 4x4 as well, but not experiencing that myself......

Lastly, how tight should the belt be? If the belt skips I assume you would here it. Is it possible that the belt is to loose and and I just don't hear it skipping? I know in on-road you keep the belt fairly loose, but not sure how tight it should be in off-road.

I was there for that race and he was dialed just a little bad luck. Very nice guy Hartson is. Helped me with my truck. Only 3rd time racing this truck and all i can say is its a blast to run this thing

Some Questions about Manixworx Ball Diff
 

The RCSHOX ball diff is awesome. I have been using this diff for a few months with great success. However, I am curious just how tight you should make the nut.

I thought I read that you should tighten everything up as much as possible, so I did that.

But, it would seem, as soon as I got it on the track, a couple laps were really sluggish... there was a lot of drag in the drivetrain. Something would loosen up after those couple laps and all was good. By the way, I run 4 pins, which I learned was the sweet spot for my track and driving.

This happened a few times, after each time I had rebuilt the car and re-assembled the ball diff.

Here's what I don't get. I can't figure out why over-tightening the ball diff would cause driveline drag. Sure, it would make the front-to-rear diff action tight, but not more so than the straight belt drive with slipper cranked down.

Then, last weekend, I ran a flawless first heat. On heat 2 and 3 I developed some sort of overheating problem where the motor got so hot that the solder melted off the connections. Strange thing is that I didn't tighten anything between heats 1 and 2 so is there something else that might have happened? I don't know if this was directly related to any potential ball diff problem, or even if it was a driveline drag problem, but I can't rule it out as a potential source until I understand exactly how the ball diff interacts with everything else.

Leading me to my final question which is: what's a good guideline to remember how tight to make the nut on the ball diff?

have you checked the wear on your pins? Reason I ask is that when discussing with Marcus, the owner of RC Shox, he mentioned that the pins can rotate. So, if say you have a pin that is worn, I am wondering that maybe the actual diff action can change if the pin is worn enough causing one minute for things to feel great, next, too be tighter than you desire.

Now, this may not apply to your issue, but throwing that out there for someone in the know to better respond, especially since you have been using your setup for a few months.

I have been into RC for years I started with a Big Brute and I have had other various vehicles. I have always been a basher. This is my first race truck I bought it as a kit because that's the only way to go in my opinion. I want to try racing this winter. My question is do you really need the clicker I bought an after market pulley and the truck works like the clicker was there. So do I really need the clicker. Help would be appreciated. :)

Very few use the clicker. I tried it cuz it's there. Preferred full time 4x4. Mine is always tightened up to where it does not click or engage.

Thanks. Don't know if he's gonna see this post so I'll shoot him a PM directly and see what he says.