Mc2 huh. I read your write up before and sounds good.

The traction will go from slick to high by the end if the night. Would that be a good tuning option, considering our change in traction?

No rcshox stuff. And yes most recent setup with 8mm

ryanpatrickgore:

You type fast LOL

When traction would come up, at least out here, the vehicle still felt good. If you find it is too planted, you can always

- quick change back to 3 degree or another setting
- find a sweet spot at say 3.25 degree (this is an option with these blocks)

I know it sounds like I am darn near selling these things, but after having the piroet down the straight a few times, and losi's just going by as if it was carpet track, it made a BIG difference.

I just think the way a lot of the tracks this stuff gets tested on, us really loose condition running guys are on our own it seems.

another review of the M2Cs:


http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...tml#post283856

What is the toe on the 3-3 and the 3-2 stock blocks?

Cain: I'm gonna give it a try probably.

toe on the stock blocks is 3 degrees and the second number from my understanding is the antisquat setting.

I updated my original post with a quick review of what Shark found when he tried them. Basically, you can push the vehicle harder.

Welcome to 2000 pages!

Is the thread going to end at 2012? :lol:

3 degree, lol. Try the 3-3 toe block for tight indoor track.

Yes, the Mayans predicted it, lol.

Yes, I have a camber gauge, a cheap RPM one, and I'm at -1.5. After reading back, am I really at -1.5? Next time I'm at the track I'll ask one of the guys that have the expensive ones and see if it's true.

I have 7 MM under the Rear Ball studs.

Yeah, see if someone has a setup station, your more than likely off. If it was off consistently on all 4 corners, not a big deal. But when you are measuring off the wheel there are too many variables to get a correct measurement with the wheel probably not square and the tire that you rest the gauge on is far from precise. So your probably -1 / -1.8 / -0.7 / -1 or whatever.

I'd take off the 8mm mod and see how it feels then.

I use 4 new wheels with no rubber mounted to set toe and camber. Easier to get a read on the blank wheel, and no rubber to bind on the table.

Quick update: no selfmade cva-pin broke today :D whats in that awesome grease that can reduce the wearing so much? xD and i got some new tires, now i can concentrate on the setup again. With old tires i had too much grip in the rear and too less in front and now its the other way round. xD Maybe i'll start with the setup from another driver here who has always new tires and go from there.

In sedan they used to use different outdrive/universal/CVD/CVA/double joint universal combos to change how much grip you make and where.

Maybe what this truck needs is different CVA grease!

And after you've driven half a day and hit a bunch of pipe and other immovable objects? You never have the need to change your camber settings for track condition changes or different tracks? Maybe you have a set of wheels in your pit box without tires to make your changes with, but it's still inaccurate.
Camber gauges are good enough for most though. But once you have used a station, you don't go back.

On the setup station deal.How many pros have you seen using one.To be honest most Ive seen setting up there cars use a shock oil bottle or something of that nature.As long as what ever your using is consistant it doesn't really matter.I've used rpm camber and toe guages for 10+ years and never had an issue.The most important thing is to know when you need more or less camber or toe and how it affects the handling of the car.