Does trimming the rear bumper really add anything? I see kinwald did it, as well as a few other people.

Saves the body. I don't even run the rear bumper. Saves 5 screws and about a minute in in-between heat diff rebuilds and saves weight from the rear.

I trimmed mine to keep the rear of the body from tearing so quickly.

I run the T-Bone bumper now, it sticks further out and does not flex as much as the stock bumper so I have not had any problems with the body getting torn up by the bumper.

Ah, so there is a purpose. I thought it was just stylish. So it saves the body huh. I am all about saving money lol. Gogo dremal demolition.

No doubt! I've never gone through so many bodies in so little time. 1/8 buggy bodies lasted up to a season. I guess my learning curve getting used to the sct had something to do with it, but not 3 bodies in about 9 months worth! :o

I dont have any weight up front. I'm going to try 60 g, I'm sure it'll help it nose over even better.

Man, your truck is all over the place on setup, just by your RC shims alone it will have entirely too much steering and most of that is due to the back coming around because of the 8mm mod and not having enough inside shims (6mm minimum). The thing is that you need to start off with a working setup BEFORE you start throwing other things in the mix. I feel safe and saying ( and i think alot will feel the same) that my base setup is really good on outdoor tracks with or without the Cdif and 2 stage pistons. Try this setup EXACTLY, tell me what it is doing and we can go from there. This is also assuming you are running the VTS, in which case i highly recommend the Garodisc ASAP, if you want any kind of consistency . I am leaving shock oils out because i have no idea what works with stock pistons, never used them!!

Front:
1*toe in
0 camber
yellow springs
yellow sway bar
30k dif fluid (kyosho grease works best)
shock outside on arm middle on tower
24mm ride height
4mm Roll center shims
camber link on outside

REAR:
3-2 block
-2* camber
Front green or white springs
blue sway bar
5k grease in dif
shock inside on arm middle on tower
24mmride height
1mm Roll center shim
camber link on inside and #2 from the inside on hub (no 8mm mod yet)

this is a very neutral setup and works well on everything, at the very least its a great base. Since i have had this truck for over a year and a half i tend to know alot about it!! If you start here i can tell you exactly what to do to get it to act like you want. As of right now your going to get way too many opinions and you will get lost!

Closed wheel classes always seem to trash bodies. The body is the first thing to take the impact. I reinforced mine to make it weight 2x as much as it should lol. I use a Marine silicon sealant around the outside. It is flexible and easy to apply. It is made by the same people that make shoe goo.

The stock pistons often use 32.5 and 27.5 little more or less temp depending. Yeah, I have been talking to like 100 people about the truck, so I am sure it is all over the place. What do the gasto disks do for me.

I say use one body to practice with and keep your nice one only for race days.

Ive seen someone use a mesh along with shoo goo to really make the body strong.

Front:
1*toe in - check
0 camber - check
yellow springs -check
yellow sway bar - check
30k dif fluid (kyosho grease works best) check check
shock outside on arm middle on tower check check
24mm ride height - no idea, lol. my ride high gauge will be here in a few days.
4mm Roll center shims - I had 5mm, will take one out
camber link on outside - check

REAR:
3-2 block - broke mine, need a new one
-2* camber - umm, ok. I had 1 deg
Front green or white springs - would need to buy, have rear yeallow and front blues atm
blue sway bar - check
5k grease in dif - check
shock inside on arm middle on tower - check
24mmride height
1mm Roll center shim - umm, ok.
camber link on inside and #2 from the inside on hub (no 8mm mod yet) - umm ok.


This is pretty close to my original setup. Yes, I have the VTS.



***** I do not have a FT and no chassis brace and saddle packs.

Yea, I figured out shoe goo and drywall tape after the 1st body... even still it doesn't last nearly as long as 1/8.
There isn't really anywhere close to run nitro though, so I got a sct. Fun class to race though and the accommodations at a indoor track blow away most outdoor tracks.

Westcoast raceway is starting to allow 1/8 with 2 cell though so im close to pulling the motor & stuff out of my mbx-5 and replacing it with E gear :sneaky:

Maybe even convert it to a sct and race it, but then I'm back to burning through bodies. Damn! Where did I go with that? :lol:

Yes that setup is very close to where I am at currently, very safe base setup to tune from do doubt.

As always, make one change at a time and test...Rinse and repeat until it drives how you want. The only thing I would not change is spring rate balance front to rear, once you have the truck jumping and driving level leave the springs alone and tune with everything else to get it to turn how you want.

Body #2 is still in decent shape but a little ugly and gets used for the first 2 or so packs to warm up and then body #3 comes out for the rest of the day. Gave body #1 (mad max) to a friend that just picked up a AE and has never driven before.

I think I just like painting bodies, and if anyone is not good at painting... short course will give you plenty of practice :lol: