shock valving!!!
shock valving!!!
03-09-2011, 04:33 PM
#3
I remember kyosho had a set of shocks with steel balls in the shocks that would plug up some of the holes under compression, it was maybe 15 years ago but I don't remember what they were on.
I'd like to try the rpm pistons on my SCT, there cheap enough so you can't go wrong .......BB
I'd like to try the rpm pistons on my SCT, there cheap enough so you can't go wrong .......BB
03-09-2011, 05:11 PM
#4
Tech Adept
iTrader: (16)
I played with it some, as its what I do for a living (custom Motorcycle suspension) I do mostly Motocross and street racing revalves and so on. Been doing it for 10+ years now. I had to play with mine some but never finished. I was machining pistons out that would allow me to run a compression stack on one side and rebound on the other. All said and done the current stock shock body and shaft was limiting me and never went further. Also another issue down the rode would be getting pressures to equalize so that you could limit cavitation. So you would in a perfect world want a ressy or do an imulsion type shock. And that just calls for alot more machining. So I just stick with me simple check plate design. I control compression with oil and rebound with orfice size.
In conclusion I dont think there is enough weight to really get an advantage from true valving type shocks, but I do think you need a seperate compression and rebound adjusment b/c they both have there jobs.
In general you do the following:
spring for the weight of loaded race unit
compression adjust for style of track and jumps (with a little thought into how rough or whooped out it may be)
rebound control is all about keeping the wheels on the ground b/c if there not how can you have control. Rebound setting works along with compression so it get tricky trying to find that balance.
Ok enough thought for now...
In conclusion I dont think there is enough weight to really get an advantage from true valving type shocks, but I do think you need a seperate compression and rebound adjusment b/c they both have there jobs.
In general you do the following:
spring for the weight of loaded race unit
compression adjust for style of track and jumps (with a little thought into how rough or whooped out it may be)
rebound control is all about keeping the wheels on the ground b/c if there not how can you have control. Rebound setting works along with compression so it get tricky trying to find that balance.
Ok enough thought for now...
03-09-2011, 05:53 PM
#5
Something we used to play around with back in the 90's in 1/10th scale 2WD electric was placing a piece plastic on top of the piston, under the e-clip. The plastic I am referring to is like that from a plastic ziplock bag (or thinner at times).
The idea is to cover up some or part of the holes in the piston. This would require strategically cutting the plastic after attached to the top of the piston.
On compression, the oil would force the plastic down onto the piston, blocking or partially blocking the holes in the piston, causing more pack. On rebound, the oil would push the plastic away from the piston, exposing all of the original piston holes.
I experimented briefly with my 1/8th scale recently (HB D8). First attempt was using 6 x 1.2mm pistons. I covered the entire piston with plastic, pulling it over the threaded shock shaft (poking a hole with the shaft). The plastic was then secured with the piston lock nut. Then, using curved lexan scissors, I cut the plastic to just slightly smaller in diameter than the piston. In this configuration, the plastic would completely cover all 6 holes on compression, which would have been too much obviously.
Using a hobby knife, I cut three small triangles to expose 3 of the 6 piston holes (every other one). Effectively, this would provide a 3 hole piston on compression and a 6 hole on rebound.
I tried it with 25wt Losi shock oil on a night when the temps were in the 50's.
It ended up being a bit too much on the compression damping.
I haven't had a chance to make any further adjustments. Thoughts would be to either cut the plastic back to cut only cover half of the three holes or starting over cover only 2 of the holes, leaving a 4 hole piston on compression. Maybe combined with a slightly lighter weight oil as well.
The idea is to cover up some or part of the holes in the piston. This would require strategically cutting the plastic after attached to the top of the piston.
On compression, the oil would force the plastic down onto the piston, blocking or partially blocking the holes in the piston, causing more pack. On rebound, the oil would push the plastic away from the piston, exposing all of the original piston holes.
I experimented briefly with my 1/8th scale recently (HB D8). First attempt was using 6 x 1.2mm pistons. I covered the entire piston with plastic, pulling it over the threaded shock shaft (poking a hole with the shaft). The plastic was then secured with the piston lock nut. Then, using curved lexan scissors, I cut the plastic to just slightly smaller in diameter than the piston. In this configuration, the plastic would completely cover all 6 holes on compression, which would have been too much obviously.
Using a hobby knife, I cut three small triangles to expose 3 of the 6 piston holes (every other one). Effectively, this would provide a 3 hole piston on compression and a 6 hole on rebound.
I tried it with 25wt Losi shock oil on a night when the temps were in the 50's.
It ended up being a bit too much on the compression damping.
I haven't had a chance to make any further adjustments. Thoughts would be to either cut the plastic back to cut only cover half of the three holes or starting over cover only 2 of the holes, leaving a 4 hole piston on compression. Maybe combined with a slightly lighter weight oil as well.
03-09-2011, 08:42 PM
#7
Got the RPMs in my XFactory SCX-60, love 'em. Especially with heavier setups, you can really feel the lighter rebound stroke with the shock in your hands.
Kindof a pain to put together...but that's one of the reasons I keep another set of shocks.
Kindof a pain to put together...but that's one of the reasons I keep another set of shocks.
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