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Originally Posted by marvinbeaverdip
(Post 8281105)
The local track has a few guys that swore beadlocks were just for bashers, but now they're running them too. They're heavier, but it's kinda nice not having to buy a new set of wheels each time you get tires.
and from a vanity standpoint, they look kickass. |
Originally Posted by D-Rek07
(Post 8281470)
I know this is totally off topic, but you can get your old tires off the wheels if you don't want to buy new wheels.
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
(Post 8281488)
You sure can. I fill a small baking pan up with 1/8 - 1/4 inch of acetone, lay the tires down flat, and then slide the tray into a big ziplock back. Usually the tires will just fall off after about a day. If you really used a lot of glue you might have to flip the tires and do the other side for day.
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
(Post 8279529)
Depends. I like the beadlocks myself but they have their downsides. 1) They're heavy. 2) If you run 10.5 or hotter motor they slip the bead on occasion. If you are racing they probably are not the best for you. Lke I said I like them and I use them in Spec and in Intermediate SC. After your second set of tires they payfor themselves, no glueing, and they look cool. Also, they give you the ability to have 1 set of rims but several sets of tires.
I have bead-locs and I enjoy them so far. I haven't run over a 10.5 on them, and only had minor trouble with them coming slightly undone, but this was after 3-4 practice days on them. If you don't do a good glue job, you can have similar issues. With the 550's and the Castle SCT motors out, I myself am not overly concerned about weight. I'm actually adding weight in certain places, in hopes of better traction. I light truck with a lot of power seems like it would be light on its wheels. But I'm still green, so we'll see how it works out for me. |
Originally Posted by marooko
(Post 8282845)
I think this is one of the best posts in here. Not too bias, good information, both pro and con.
I have bead-locs and I enjoy them so far. I haven't run over a 10.5 on them, and only had minor trouble with them coming slightly undone, but this was after 3-4 practice days on them. If you don't do a good glue job, you can have similar issues. With the 550's and the Castle SCT motors out, I myself am not overly concerned about weight. I'm actually adding weight in certain places, in hopes of better traction. I light truck with a lot of power seems like it would be light on its wheels. But I'm still green, so we'll see how it works out for me. |
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
(Post 8281488)
You sure can. I fill a small baking pan up with 1/8 - 1/4 inch of acetone, lay the tires down flat, and then slide the tray into a big ziplock back. Usually the tires will just fall off after about a day. If you really used a lot of glue you might have to flip the tires and do the other side for day.
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tire question
I have a set of these waiting for me to pick up before a race this Sunday, the adds I read about the rims say use only proline tires.
Now is this due to proline wanting to sell their tires or is it true, will AKA or other brands fly off at speed? I have 3 sets of new tires coming with these rims, Enduros, Subcultures, and City blocks.....did I mess up not buying only Proline tires? |
Bead locks
I would never use bead locks for racing, glued rims and tires (when done Properly) offer many performance advantages. Weight and durability being the top most.
That being said, if you still want to use them, clean the bead of the tires with alcohol then use a thin coat of rubber cement around the bead of the tire. Install on rims with cement tacky. This should make your wheels more reliable and still re-usable. |
I stopped racing with them on my scrt10 after having a set come off the bead. I seem to prefer the regular rim to begin with. On the other hand I still like bead locks for tire testing. It sucks to buy new tires and rims just to find out they don't work well for your track. At least it can cut down on buying needless rims.
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Originally Posted by turners dad
(Post 10495605)
I have a set of these waiting for me to pick up before a race this Sunday, the adds I read about the rims say use only proline tires.
Now is this due to proline wanting to sell their tires or is it true, will AKA or other brands fly off at speed? I have 3 sets of new tires coming with these rims, Enduros, Subcultures, and City blocks.....did I mess up not buying only Proline tires? Sounds a bit like what motorcycle manufacturers used to do. They'd try to tell you that the OEM tire was "specially made" just for that bike, and buying something else would totally throw off the suspension, even if it was the same size and rating. That was a bunch of BS. |
i use 15mm button head screws and nuts on the inside of the wheel. gets a lot tighter this way and do not come off. they are heavier but all that weight is low, more planted truck. the added weight also helps in mid air control.
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will this work?
Got my tires and wheels today, $160. short course tire bill,,, ouch :nod:
I lifted this picture from another source, thanks for the info from 'OTE_TheMissile' . Has anyone else tried this method with non proline tires? The tires and wheels will go on a 2wd WMD LCG slash, Castle SCT esc and 3,800 4 pole 15/87 gearing.. the EPA is turned down on the radio to 75% AKA and JC concepts are the tires in question. http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...dewall_mod.jpg |
anyone tried this
Has anyone, nobody, somebody, you in the corner behind the chair
have you done what's in that picture above...lol please help a brother out! |
that extra weight in your rotating mass can't be good for acceleration, battery life, keeping the motor/esc cool, ect.....
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I would not run beadlocks on a race truck. Rotational weight is a huge factor in such small cars, and they are much heavier than a plastic wheel.
And turners dad, I ran proline beadlocks on my shortcourse basher a while back with jconcepts tires, and did not have to dremel them down any, they fit without modification. |
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