1LikesTire Break in?? (highbite indoor)
11-02-2010, 03:22 AM
#1
Tire Break in?? (highbite indoor)
Just curious how everyone breaks in there tires. I'm speaking more towards guys who are running indoor(highbite) using pink tapers,clay switches,suburbs,bk bars etc. I know some guys use a dremel,some sandpaper etc. Just seeing what other little tricks are out there to getting tires broken in.
11-02-2010, 03:47 AM
#3
Nah not so much. Heres a example. My home track runs slicks but sometimes it drys out and we run ghost pins etc. If u took a brand new pair of pink tapers out of the box they dont work that well.(trust me). A well broke in tire works much much better.
11-02-2010, 03:51 AM
#4
Along this same train of thought....
One of the fellows I race with had some issues this weekend with ProLine M4 Suburbs 'growing' on him - he said the tires felt like they had streched out in the middle and there was a gap of sorts between the center section of the rubber and the foam..... My first thought is that he had been 'pizza cuttering' the tires by reving the motor but he's known to run only as much motor as is needed and says that wasn't the case.... In has case, he washed the tires and that seemed to 'shrink' them (which is hard to imagine) but that's what he experienced. No, he wasn't consuming anything 'funny'
.
I had a set on my second car and there was no problem with them.
Anyone else had this happen????
One of the fellows I race with had some issues this weekend with ProLine M4 Suburbs 'growing' on him - he said the tires felt like they had streched out in the middle and there was a gap of sorts between the center section of the rubber and the foam..... My first thought is that he had been 'pizza cuttering' the tires by reving the motor but he's known to run only as much motor as is needed and says that wasn't the case.... In has case, he washed the tires and that seemed to 'shrink' them (which is hard to imagine) but that's what he experienced. No, he wasn't consuming anything 'funny'
.I had a set on my second car and there was no problem with them.
Anyone else had this happen????
11-02-2010, 04:10 AM
#5
Rob, this is a great topic, just expect a million different answers. everybody has thier own idea on how things need to be done.
kwiksi, With all due respect, I do not know what track you run at, but for indoor in Ohio if you show up with new tires you will be asking for a dremel tool with a sanding drum just so you could make the b-main. new tires will take way to long to just break-in.
I myself like to spin the tires after the glue has dried to get the rubber and foam to settle in there respective places to each other. Then I will balance the tire. After all of that, Then I will use a hand drill and a block of sand paper to scrub the tires. I will use a reversing hand drill so I can scub the tire in the rotation that it will be in on the chassie. The front tires on a 2wd chassie will also be scrub in a pattern that would apear to be backwords. This is due to the fact that the spinning motion is comming from the ground and not from a motor trying to power the front tire faster then ground speed.
As for slick, I will scrub them once a week just to help keep them from glazzing over.
kwiksi, With all due respect, I do not know what track you run at, but for indoor in Ohio if you show up with new tires you will be asking for a dremel tool with a sanding drum just so you could make the b-main. new tires will take way to long to just break-in.
I myself like to spin the tires after the glue has dried to get the rubber and foam to settle in there respective places to each other. Then I will balance the tire. After all of that, Then I will use a hand drill and a block of sand paper to scrub the tires. I will use a reversing hand drill so I can scub the tire in the rotation that it will be in on the chassie. The front tires on a 2wd chassie will also be scrub in a pattern that would apear to be backwords. This is due to the fact that the spinning motion is comming from the ground and not from a motor trying to power the front tire faster then ground speed.
As for slick, I will scrub them once a week just to help keep them from glazzing over.
11-02-2010, 04:40 AM
#6
Ohio st...I def understand what tires to run and do come to OH and MI. to run indoor soo..matter of fact..
I just ran at CRCRC this past weekend. Some guys ran slicks early. I didn't have any and didn't care to make some. I only had time for 2 packs before races started and knew the track would dry out so why waste a set of tires. I did have some ghost pin front and worn down BK bars.
I ended up running newer full pin/bars toward the end of the day when the track dried out.
Last edited by kwiksi; 11-02-2010 at 05:13 AM.
11-02-2010, 11:15 AM
#9
Motor spray and a lighter.
11-02-2010, 11:51 AM
#10
For making slicks, I bust out a dremel with a sanding wheel. I've used a drill press plus sand paper before, but found it very hard not to over-heat the rubber. With the dremel I go in stripes around the tire and it seems to help keep the heat down. I then wash the tire several times
For 1/2-pin or ghost-pin type tires though, I've found nothing beats wearing them down by running them. As mentioned before, finding a strip of un-sealed concrete and running figure 8's seems to be the smoothest and most consistent method I've found. Tennis courts also work really well. The downside is it's hard to do the day of the race, but being prepared is half the battle
.
If I'm going to run a new tire indoors, I admit to using motor spray and a lighter to burn off the mold release. Most tracks ask you to do that outside (if they let you), for obvious reasons. Then I'll wash the tires and they're good to go.
For 1/2-pin or ghost-pin type tires though, I've found nothing beats wearing them down by running them. As mentioned before, finding a strip of un-sealed concrete and running figure 8's seems to be the smoothest and most consistent method I've found. Tennis courts also work really well. The downside is it's hard to do the day of the race, but being prepared is half the battle
.If I'm going to run a new tire indoors, I admit to using motor spray and a lighter to burn off the mold release. Most tracks ask you to do that outside (if they let you), for obvious reasons. Then I'll wash the tires and they're good to go.
11-02-2010, 12:04 PM
#11
go to hardware store get a sanding block and some dry wall rough sand paper it looks like a metal screen.. run that over the tire SLOWLY.. in both direction to get the desired pin height you want.. i have lots of experience in the tire modding field and it works the best... to make ghost pin.. the dremel is the better for slicks..
using the drill method you get even pin wear..
11-02-2010, 12:12 PM
#12
For making slicks, I bust out a dremel with a sanding wheel. I've used a drill press plus sand paper before, but found it very hard not to over-heat the rubber. With the dremel I go in stripes around the tire and it seems to help keep the heat down. I then wash the tire several times
For 1/2-pin or ghost-pin type tires though, I've found nothing beats wearing them down by running them. As mentioned before, finding a strip of un-sealed concrete and running figure 8's seems to be the smoothest and most consistent method I've found. Tennis courts also work really well. The downside is it's hard to do the day of the race, but being prepared is half the battle.
If I'm going to run a new tire indoors, I admit to using motor spray and a lighter to burn off the mold release. Most tracks ask you to do that outside (if they let you), for obvious reasons. Then I'll wash the tires and they're good to go.
For 1/2-pin or ghost-pin type tires though, I've found nothing beats wearing them down by running them. As mentioned before, finding a strip of un-sealed concrete and running figure 8's seems to be the smoothest and most consistent method I've found. Tennis courts also work really well. The downside is it's hard to do the day of the race, but being prepared is half the battle
.If I'm going to run a new tire indoors, I admit to using motor spray and a lighter to burn off the mold release. Most tracks ask you to do that outside (if they let you), for obvious reasons. Then I'll wash the tires and they're good to go.
Rob take an old cvd axle and a wheel pin with a hub.. cut the cvd axle chock it up in a drill..
go to hardware store get a sanding block and some dry wall rough sand paper it looks like a metal screen.. run that over the tire SLOWLY.. in both direction to get the desired pin height you want.. i have lots of experience in the tire modding field and it works the best... to make ghost pin.. the dremel is the better for slicks..
using the drill method you get even pin wear..
go to hardware store get a sanding block and some dry wall rough sand paper it looks like a metal screen.. run that over the tire SLOWLY.. in both direction to get the desired pin height you want.. i have lots of experience in the tire modding field and it works the best... to make ghost pin.. the dremel is the better for slicks..
using the drill method you get even pin wear..
Nice. Its just cool to see how others do certain things,.
11-02-2010, 02:25 PM
#14
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
I run all my tires VERY carefully on my Jet 48" belt sander with an 80g belt. Works like a charm!
Fresh BK bars and tapers suck until their broke in. I also use the belt sander for making all my slicks. I can make a full set of slicks in about 10 min without overheating the tire.
If you have access to a standing belt sander I highly recommend trying it. I'd take some old tires and run them a few times just to get the hang of it first.
Fresh BK bars and tapers suck until their broke in. I also use the belt sander for making all my slicks. I can make a full set of slicks in about 10 min without overheating the tire.
If you have access to a standing belt sander I highly recommend trying it. I'd take some old tires and run them a few times just to get the hang of it first.
11-02-2010, 03:49 PM
#15
chris mckinney at bumps and jumps was real slick in his ability to make slicks in no time with a chop saw IIRC, not a sander but a saw.
of course light em up when their new, but dont go too long b4 ur deform the ribs on rim's backside.
R
of course light em up when their new, but dont go too long b4 ur deform the ribs on rim's backside.
R