I'm sure it has been asked, but I can't find the answer.

What's the maximum lipo height?

Anyone running Tekin RS pro? have any comments good or bad?

If you get a little creative with the battery hold-down nuts you can get as big as 32-35mm batteries into a B44. I recommend sticking to the 25-28mm size; Less issues, lower CG, and plenty of capacity.

Thanks

Run it and love it. Then again I am running Tekin RS in all my cars.

What does "creative" mean ... the LiPos I ordered are suppossedly 31mm tall ... will I need custom bullets? have to make some myself? ... any pics of your mods that you can post?

I personally haven't had to do any of these mods. My batteries are only 25mm high.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ne-modify.html

This thread has some photos of the mods others have done for your situation. What guys do is remove the grub screw from the battery hold-down posts and put a long screw through the blue nut such that the threaded portion extends long enough to reach the posts. Also, depending on the layout of your battery, you may have to solder the wire at a 90-degree angle into the bullets for the jump wire that joins the saddle pack. I use Pro-Tek bullets so no mod to the bullets was required to do this. Some guys just dremel the side of the bullet out so they can join at a 90. I believe AE/Reedy Packs have the bullet ports positioned such that this is not required.

Awesome info - thank you ;-)

Hello
 

Hello All ... this forum is great - thank you for the posts, tips, tricks and hindsight ... I'll be using it, posting and soliciting help regularly ;-)

I'm returning to RC cars after a 20+ year hiatus! ... My last build was a Kysoho Javelin in '88 ;-) ... I ran it for a few years and then mothballed it ... Now, my excuse is that my son is fascinated with all things radio controlled so I thought I'd dust off the old set and play in the street ... What I had remembered as a blazingly fast setup (which cost me a tonne of money in hop ups that I didn't have at the time ;-) seemed pathetically slow, glitchy and lame after I went to a local small track ... watching the kids running the brushless setups got me to thinking about getting back "in"

None of my old gear rates any more and I always lusted after the RC10s of yore so I did a bit of research and settled on a B44.1 ... I placed my order via a LHS since I have the wherewithal and want to support them, but I suspect that its all been ordered via Tower

the major parts I settled on after a tonne of research were

Kit - RC10B44.1 (didn't want a RTR)
ESC - MambaMax Pro (I bought the whole "best of both sensored/sensorless worlds" argument, can handle 6S LiPos, awesome customer service - answered my newbie questions for 30+ minutes on the phone)
Motor - Castle CMS36-4600 4pole brushless 540 can + Integy Heatsink (liked that I could run 3S LiPos if I choose and this should be plenty fast enough, stay cool and give me low draw, super long run times)
Futaba FHSS (didn't quite get why the FASST was so much more expensive)
Charger - Hyperion 0720 Super Duo (remembered how much it sucked to wait for batteries to charge up)
Batteries - 4X GensAce 6000Mah 2S3P Saddle Packs (Balance wired, super cheap @ HobbyPartz ($29!!), Deans Ultras already connected)

+Tonnes of little stuff (pinions, springs, extra frnt/rear A-arms, oils, etc...)

Based on what I've read here - I'll pay some extra attention to the CVA build/shim fix issue

Are there other words of wisdom/tips/tricks/recs? ... did I miss any big parts/make huge mistakes in the order list? ... If I build this right, how fast do you think it'll be? ... will it be controllable?

oh yeah – lastly a random question, has anyone built/run this as a 2WDR buggy? ... I picked the B44.1 over the B4.1 since the motor was inboard and I had wrecked too many motors in my Javelin being jump happy - even with a custom aluminum motor guard! ;-) ... I thought I could run it without the front shafts and lose the tranny/rolling resistance ... if its possible, it should be awesome, fast and easily changeable back to 4WDR at the field if I read the manual correctly

Its unlikely that I'll be at a track in the early days of running this thing (Live in CT) but I'd like to try it one day ... I'll try to post pics along the way of the build and final result ... I've found no build reports/picts so if anyone on this forum could point me to any, I'd appreciate it

Thanks again and Hello! ;-)

welcome Circitmage!

Don't see anything wrong with what you have picked. I am not familiar with GensAce Batteries, but as long as they are 25C or better, you should find your car to be quite enjoyable. 4600kV sensorless is about the same as a 7.5T to 6.5T sensored motor. This is pretty much an ideal choice. I personally run an 8.5T sensored and find it to plenty fast.

Be aware that most battery manufacturers recommend a charge rate of 1C, so regardless of charger choice, the fastest your battery will charge will be about 1 hour. (1C for a 6000mAh battery is 6.0 Amps, FYI) But with 6000mAh, you'll be able to get 3 good 5 to 6 minute runs per charge. However, if the batteries say you can charge at a higher C-rate, then you'll get to have fun sooner.

Nothing to warn you about on the buggy. It simply rocks right out of the box. Ceramic diff balls are a nice upgrade, but not necessary for bashing around the neighborhood. If you get serious about racing, I'd recommend the upgrade. Be sure to sand and seal the edges of the carbon fiber bits for more durability. Use threadlock on ALL bolts threaded into metal.

Again, Welcome! I love to see the 4wd scene grow.

Does anyone have a current or semi current setup for indoor clay? I have one but its from 07' thanks

Hi Guys. Looking for some advice. I have built my b44.1 using the stock set-up from the manual. I am running a tekin rs pro and a redline 6.5t.
I am using the zippy 5700mah hardcase lipos.
I have added the associated weight to the center rear of the chassis.
I have some serious nose dive when jumping (even little jumps) and have to stay on throttle to keep it level in flight.
What can I do to correct this?
I will hook up to my hotwire and make sure I am not running any drag brake and see if that helps if it is on.
Has anyone else had this problem? I have searched and have not found anything yet.
Thanks in advance for any tips.

Thanks Banshee ... two quick questions ... do you sand and seal all CF edges or just the bottom plate? .. and doesn't the B44.1 come with the ceramic ball diff?

I have this same problem... please let me know what helps.