I think it has the offset cups on the rear but I'll double check. Thanks

Noise from Spur gear
 

Nice thread..

I have a question about noisey spur/pinion gears. I just got my 44.1. I raced it last weekend. I noticed mine was a little noiser than others at the track. The noise is coming from the spur gear, not the diffs. I'm sure of that. I have the associated spur with robinson pinion. Mesh seems to have something to do with it. However, the spur isn't perfectly round. So, in order to have some mesh on the high side, the low side has too much. What I think I'm hearing is some bounce between the pinion and low side of the spur when I rotate the spur by hand due to the motor's magnets.

Has anyone else had a similiar issue? and if so, what did you do to solve it? Are there better spurs or pinions?

Hey Everyone, I hope someone answers this pretty quick because I'm tired of heat problems. So here's my setup that I was running, 17t pinion, 81 spur, avid clutch, fantom 6.5 ion v.4 motor timing all the way down with an orion r10 pro. My motor was pretty much around 100 but my esc was hot at 160. This is after about 5 min of running hard. What should I be running?

What body are you running? If Bulldog, do you have the front and back cut outs for better airflow? Also unless you have an unusually small track, you're geared too low. You want at least an 18 pinion, but 19 to 21 is more commonly found on a 6.5 with 81 spur. Your low motor temps reflect this. Having said all this, your ESC temp sounds acceptable.

For those running big bores what's a good starting point what r u running?

I'd start by copying the good setups that are working for the 44.2 . Blue AE front springs with 1.6 piston, 1 limiter, 35 AE oil. Green AE rear springs, 1.7 piston, 1 limiter, 32.5 AE oil.

I still run and love my 44.1 lol. Ill get a .2 eventually.

hell i just picked up a b44.1 with the big bores on the car i really see no need for the .8. unless you are running on a super high speed outdoor track where the extra stability will be needed.

So what are some opinions on running the .1 with the .2 freshly released? I see places are starting to blow out the old kits and one can be bought for a great price. Where I live 4wd is hit and miss so I'm looking for some possible advice. Thanks in advance.

How much can you save on a .1 kit vs .2 ? The 44.1 with big bores and the Avid triad slipper would be everything the .2 is minus the 8mm longer chassis. Big bores + Avid triad, after tax, is about $140.

You could always run the stock .1 slipper and small bore shocks with big bore spring upgrades. It's still a great 4wd buggy. I loved my 44.1 , but the .2 kit is even better. If you're looking to try 4wd buggy for cheap, look for a nice condition used 44.1 and just add big bore springs and call it a day. Follow the kit setup to start off with which makes it easier to drive, and tune from there.

FWIW towerhobbies has the B44.1 for $245, combine that with their discount code and I just picked one up shipped for just over $200. The .1 comes with tires that work at my local track where the .2 only comes with wheels, another plus for me:D

tuning with camber links
 

Who is familiar with http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html Thread Thats on here. Has anybody tried this with a B44.1. It doesn't work. Without oil in the shocks the rear pretty much settles down straight away no matter which spring you use, and the front bounces around no matter what spring you use. I can't see how you could ever get matching spring resonance front to back. It has shown me that the rear end is much different to the front in its response. This must be the geometry difference front to back that make them react different. Can anybody back this up ?

So I was wrong. I had a shockie not working properly, this gave me false results. Now its working properly I'll experiment with this method.

Hey all!

Im stoked to finally join the 4wd buggy scene after many years of on road! I just bought an original b44 off ebay and was wondering the differences between that and the 44.1? Im asking because i am looking to try and upgrade.

I notice the obvious differences such as lipo chassis, thick front shock tower, new shocks, different servo location, cam motor mount, and rear hubs, but also noticed its 7mm longer? I was wondering where this length came from?
Because looking back through the thread I noticed that the chassis seemed to be the same size minus the holes? Additionally does this mean the top decks are longer? I notice the different antenna mount location, but they seem to be the same otherwise the same to me.

I like the new body designs, but noticed on the manufacturers site and on here that it doesnt quite fit the 44... is this due to the chassis length? I dont see where the problem would arise, and would love to run a newer body! Ive read on here that almost every other part was compatible otherwise, so i find this a little perplexing.

Now I have never seen or compared the two side by side, Ive only seen original 44s... So any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

the .1 is NOT any longer. The new .2 is 8mm longer than the 44 and 44.1

Thank you for that! So then why would the manufacturers say the new bodies dont fit?