pros and cons of 1/8 electric
09-02-2010, 10:05 AM
#16
To answer your question about Larry's. Yes Dennis aka Parttime does race at larrys. Or at least he has, I haven't been there in a while because of them moving location. They are supposed to have their track up sometime this month. The new facility looks great. It's on hall road next to the Durhams and the Bed Bath and Beyond.
09-02-2010, 10:07 AM
#17
To answer your question about Larry's. Yes Dennis aka Parttime does race at larrys. Or at least he has, I haven't been there in a while because of them moving location. They are supposed to have their track up sometime this month. The new facility looks great. It's on hall road next to the Durhams and the Bed Bath and Beyond.
09-02-2010, 11:11 AM
#19
I run both nitro and E love doing both but I find myself using my E stuff more. Im able to control the kit better its more consistent but I use a Tekin setup its super smooth.
09-02-2010, 11:25 AM
#20
Tech Regular
Pros of 1/8 electric:
plug and play: I get 3-4 hours driving time, while the nitro guys get 1-1.5 hours
power and speed: use 5S or 6S lipo and a reasonable KV motor
motors are often durable
Cons:
some types of batteries are expensive
most ESCs are sensitive to water, XeRun and Kontronik are exceptions
plug and play: I get 3-4 hours driving time, while the nitro guys get 1-1.5 hours
power and speed: use 5S or 6S lipo and a reasonable KV motor
motors are often durable
Cons:
some types of batteries are expensive
most ESCs are sensitive to water, XeRun and Kontronik are exceptions
09-02-2010, 01:11 PM
#21
Pros:
Reliable
Easy to drive
Lower cost in the long run
Can run non stop w/ the current lipos and charging methods.
Cons:
Requires you to pay close attention to detail
Requires sufficient research and common sense
Higher initial cost
Reasons why you might blow and esc:
1. You didn't mount it with enough cushion. This is especially problematic with the mamba monster and the tekin rx8, because of their weight and case design. Some mounting locations such as the one at the end of the losi 8ight-E conversion battery tray aren't directly supported underneath - sort of like a diving board, which is what you want.
2. Your soldering connections are poor or you are running batteries with an insufficient amp rating.
3. Your motor is way to fast causing you to turn the EPA down to an unreasonable level. Do not exceed 2,100kv for 4s, 1700 for 5s, and 1400 on 6s unless you are bashing in the street.
Reliable
Easy to drive
Lower cost in the long run
Can run non stop w/ the current lipos and charging methods.
Cons:
Requires you to pay close attention to detail
Requires sufficient research and common sense
Higher initial cost
Reasons why you might blow and esc:
1. You didn't mount it with enough cushion. This is especially problematic with the mamba monster and the tekin rx8, because of their weight and case design. Some mounting locations such as the one at the end of the losi 8ight-E conversion battery tray aren't directly supported underneath - sort of like a diving board, which is what you want.
2. Your soldering connections are poor or you are running batteries with an insufficient amp rating.
3. Your motor is way to fast causing you to turn the EPA down to an unreasonable level. Do not exceed 2,100kv for 4s, 1700 for 5s, and 1400 on 6s unless you are bashing in the street.
09-02-2010, 03:03 PM
#22
LOL. Not really sure where some of you are getting your info but I get WAY more run time and track time with a nitro, BAR NONE !!! Im not rich enough to have 3 or 4 packs laying around for the E car though. Im sure that has something to do with it.
Ive been racing for a few yrs now
so rest assured I can setup a car. Over geared or over timed doesnt happen with my stuff for more then a run. My cars are always in tip top shape too. The first 4 months of my 8th E racing the system came off the track at 95 degs. Yes, pack, motor and speedo. Then in the last 3 race days before the speedo quit the temps started to go up more every run no matter how I geared or drove it. Speedo got up to 130 on the run that stopped it.
Speedos and motors that have let me down?
Tekin motors seem to be good for 1 season only. I kept mine under 120 deg the whole time. The last race it was running 140 for the first 2 rounds and then melt down. 160 and over no matter what. I killed a losi motor but really think somthing was wrong with it from the start.
My 4th tekin speedo is on its way back to me. 1st one lasted 4 months. the second one lasted 3 race days and pulled the post out of the board. The last one ran hot and slow out of the box.
CC mmp ran ok for the first two runs then it would cog pretty badly even with the sensor wire hooked up. Sent it back and the new one did the same thing... with 3 diffrent motors !!
I had a losi speedo for a short time. It let go in the 2nd race day.
And I love the guys that say, every thing is fine, there fixed. Sorry, 2 weeks after I stopped racing guys were telling me that. Really? in 2 weeks they have fixed the problem? But all the speedos still look the same. Im mean tekin still has those stupid tall post to solder to that are just like putting a tork wrench on a bolt. Tons of leverage to pull it out of the board with. CC has a solid design but the wire is too small on the pro and the monster is just way too big. Sorry, I would have to see a whole new speedo b4 I believe there fixed.
Yes, I have raced at Larrys, and Dirt burners, and AMS, and Pheasant runn....Pretty much anywhere with in a 2hr drive of stering hts.
When the manufacturers get there act together electric 8th will take over.
Butt until then your there Ginny pig.
HTH
Ive been racing for a few yrs now
so rest assured I can setup a car. Over geared or over timed doesnt happen with my stuff for more then a run. My cars are always in tip top shape too. The first 4 months of my 8th E racing the system came off the track at 95 degs. Yes, pack, motor and speedo. Then in the last 3 race days before the speedo quit the temps started to go up more every run no matter how I geared or drove it. Speedo got up to 130 on the run that stopped it.Speedos and motors that have let me down?
Tekin motors seem to be good for 1 season only. I kept mine under 120 deg the whole time. The last race it was running 140 for the first 2 rounds and then melt down. 160 and over no matter what. I killed a losi motor but really think somthing was wrong with it from the start.
My 4th tekin speedo is on its way back to me. 1st one lasted 4 months. the second one lasted 3 race days and pulled the post out of the board. The last one ran hot and slow out of the box.
CC mmp ran ok for the first two runs then it would cog pretty badly even with the sensor wire hooked up. Sent it back and the new one did the same thing... with 3 diffrent motors !!
I had a losi speedo for a short time. It let go in the 2nd race day.
And I love the guys that say, every thing is fine, there fixed. Sorry, 2 weeks after I stopped racing guys were telling me that. Really? in 2 weeks they have fixed the problem? But all the speedos still look the same. Im mean tekin still has those stupid tall post to solder to that are just like putting a tork wrench on a bolt. Tons of leverage to pull it out of the board with. CC has a solid design but the wire is too small on the pro and the monster is just way too big. Sorry, I would have to see a whole new speedo b4 I believe there fixed.
Yes, I have raced at Larrys, and Dirt burners, and AMS, and Pheasant runn....Pretty much anywhere with in a 2hr drive of stering hts.
When the manufacturers get there act together electric 8th will take over.
Butt until then your there Ginny pig.HTH
09-02-2010, 05:14 PM
#24
PROS: Silent but deadly
CONS: Dead silent (thus no audible RPM feedback)
PROS: Blowing by virtually any nitro at will down the straights.
CONS: Overshooting the turn at the end of the straights. No brake bias.
(motor brakes push real bad when steering and braking simultaneously)
PROS: ESC/Motor combo is less expensive than modern design Nitro counterparts.(e.g. Novarossi 4 port w/Tuned pipe or similar)
CONS: ESC failure is still way too common.
PROS: Battery and Electronics Technologys are rapidly advancing. ESC tuning options are almost endless.
CONS: The backwards thinking mentality of some 1:8 scale race directors who seem to want to categorize all "E" cars as if they are 1:10 scale.
They try to separate them and stick them in 5 to 7 minute A-Mains and such when they should be thinking more inclusively. A 1:8 scale buggy is a 1:8 scale buggy. Period. The scale should be what determines the class regardless of the power source IMO. Whether it is Nitro, Electric/LiPo, Solar, Hydrogen, blah, blah, or blah powered shouldn't really matter as long as it meets all other scale requirements. If not then they should go ahead and continue dismantling the 1:8 scale class into sub-classes based on the power source..e.g.
Race 1 - .21 4 port w 30% Nitro
Race 2 - .21 7 port w 20% Nitro
Race 3 - .21 Open Ports w 3 or more pinches w 30% Nitro
Race 4 - .21 here-a-port, there-a-port w 29% methane sewage disposal gas,
(no tuned-pipes allowed in this class)
Woops! Please pardon the rant!
I'm sure you get the point of that "CON"
The two(2) most important/significant reasons ("PROS") why I prefer an Electric 1:8 scale buggy are..
#2 - It allows you to have more choices regarding track selection as the E Buggy can be used on both outdoor and indoor tracks. So it basically doubles the opportunities you will have to drive or race with twice as many choices for where you want to do that.
And the #1 reason or biggest "PRO" for me personally is I really enjoy and appreciate the independence and freedom that is really only made possible with an Electric 1:8 scale buggy. It just has way more freedom of choice than any other RC vehicles, it can be run on 1:10, 1:8, and 1:5 scale tracks; indoors or outdoors; off-road and yes, even on-road courses if it is clean; Nitro tracks or Electric only tracks; and the sweetest part of all, you do not have to be dependent on a Pit Man in order to go racing! Priceless!
CONS: Dead silent (thus no audible RPM feedback)
PROS: Blowing by virtually any nitro at will down the straights.
CONS: Overshooting the turn at the end of the straights. No brake bias.
(motor brakes push real bad when steering and braking simultaneously)
PROS: ESC/Motor combo is less expensive than modern design Nitro counterparts.(e.g. Novarossi 4 port w/Tuned pipe or similar)
CONS: ESC failure is still way too common.
PROS: Battery and Electronics Technologys are rapidly advancing. ESC tuning options are almost endless.
CONS: The backwards thinking mentality of some 1:8 scale race directors who seem to want to categorize all "E" cars as if they are 1:10 scale.
They try to separate them and stick them in 5 to 7 minute A-Mains and such when they should be thinking more inclusively. A 1:8 scale buggy is a 1:8 scale buggy. Period. The scale should be what determines the class regardless of the power source IMO. Whether it is Nitro, Electric/LiPo, Solar, Hydrogen, blah, blah, or blah powered shouldn't really matter as long as it meets all other scale requirements. If not then they should go ahead and continue dismantling the 1:8 scale class into sub-classes based on the power source..e.g.
Race 1 - .21 4 port w 30% Nitro
Race 2 - .21 7 port w 20% Nitro
Race 3 - .21 Open Ports w 3 or more pinches w 30% Nitro
Race 4 - .21 here-a-port, there-a-port w 29% methane sewage disposal gas,
(no tuned-pipes allowed in this class)
Woops! Please pardon the rant!
I'm sure you get the point of that "CON"The two(2) most important/significant reasons ("PROS") why I prefer an Electric 1:8 scale buggy are..
#2 - It allows you to have more choices regarding track selection as the E Buggy can be used on both outdoor and indoor tracks. So it basically doubles the opportunities you will have to drive or race with twice as many choices for where you want to do that.
And the #1 reason or biggest "PRO" for me personally is I really enjoy and appreciate the independence and freedom that is really only made possible with an Electric 1:8 scale buggy. It just has way more freedom of choice than any other RC vehicles, it can be run on 1:10, 1:8, and 1:5 scale tracks; indoors or outdoors; off-road and yes, even on-road courses if it is clean; Nitro tracks or Electric only tracks; and the sweetest part of all, you do not have to be dependent on a Pit Man in order to go racing!
Priceless!
09-03-2010, 04:44 AM
#25
Tech Regular
I have been running electric for two seasons now, and I just note how much runtime I get compared to the nitro guys adjusting and adjusting and...
Must admit I have blown a couple of ESCs in water though :-)
But some brands are far better than others.
Must admit I have blown a couple of ESCs in water though :-)
But some brands are far better than others.
09-03-2010, 10:17 AM
#26
Pros:
-Quiet (I can run anytime, day or night).
-Clean(No oil for dirt to stick to).
-No smell and no pollution.
-No flame outs.
-Instant power to the wheels, no throttle blipping required (a really bad habit if you race electrics during the winter months).
-No tuning required for changing weather conditions.
-Cheaper to maintain baring failures(a few kilowatts of power is cheaper than a gallon of nitro. No plug to buy).
-Don't die waiting for the start of a race.
-No pit person required for mains up to 25 minutes.
-In some respects, electric is safer (don't have to worry about a stuck throttle or running out of radio range).
-No starter box required.
Cons:
-Hi initial price unless you go to China
-Run times exceeding 1 battery can be difficult but not impossible.
-May be heavier
-Lipos do need to be respected to be safe.
-Electric 1/8th drivers are not well received by nitro guys.
-Car designs are still based on nitro power plants.
-Can be hard on nitro drive trains (electric motor torque is significantly higher than nitro).
-Marshals think you have "flamed out" and pull you off the track.
-Quiet (I can run anytime, day or night).
-Clean(No oil for dirt to stick to).
-No smell and no pollution.
-No flame outs.
-Instant power to the wheels, no throttle blipping required (a really bad habit if you race electrics during the winter months).
-No tuning required for changing weather conditions.
-Cheaper to maintain baring failures(a few kilowatts of power is cheaper than a gallon of nitro. No plug to buy).
-Don't die waiting for the start of a race.
-No pit person required for mains up to 25 minutes.
-In some respects, electric is safer (don't have to worry about a stuck throttle or running out of radio range).
-No starter box required.
Cons:
-Hi initial price unless you go to China
-Run times exceeding 1 battery can be difficult but not impossible.
-May be heavier
-Lipos do need to be respected to be safe.
-Electric 1/8th drivers are not well received by nitro guys.
-Car designs are still based on nitro power plants.
-Can be hard on nitro drive trains (electric motor torque is significantly higher than nitro).
-Marshals think you have "flamed out" and pull you off the track.
09-03-2010, 02:52 PM
#27
Pros:
-Quiet (I can run anytime, day or night).
-Clean(No oil for dirt to stick to).
-No smell and no pollution.
-No flame outs.
-Instant power to the wheels, no throttle blipping required (a really bad habit if you race electrics during the winter months).
-No tuning required for changing weather conditions.
-Cheaper to maintain baring failures(a few kilowatts of power is cheaper than a gallon of nitro. No plug to buy).
-Don't die waiting for the start of a race.
-No pit person required for mains up to 25 minutes.
-In some respects, electric is safer (don't have to worry about a stuck throttle or running out of radio range).
-No starter box required.
Cons:
-Hi initial price unless you go to China
-Run times exceeding 1 battery can be difficult but not impossible.
-May be heavier
-Lipos do need to be respected to be safe.
-Electric 1/8th drivers are not well received by nitro guys.
-Car designs are still based on nitro power plants.
-Can be hard on nitro drive trains (electric motor torque is significantly higher than nitro).
-Marshals think you have "flamed out" and pull you off the track.
-Quiet (I can run anytime, day or night).
-Clean(No oil for dirt to stick to).
-No smell and no pollution.
-No flame outs.
-Instant power to the wheels, no throttle blipping required (a really bad habit if you race electrics during the winter months).
-No tuning required for changing weather conditions.
-Cheaper to maintain baring failures(a few kilowatts of power is cheaper than a gallon of nitro. No plug to buy).
-Don't die waiting for the start of a race.
-No pit person required for mains up to 25 minutes.
-In some respects, electric is safer (don't have to worry about a stuck throttle or running out of radio range).
-No starter box required.
Cons:
-Hi initial price unless you go to China
-Run times exceeding 1 battery can be difficult but not impossible.
-May be heavier
-Lipos do need to be respected to be safe.
-Electric 1/8th drivers are not well received by nitro guys.
-Car designs are still based on nitro power plants.
-Can be hard on nitro drive trains (electric motor torque is significantly higher than nitro).
-Marshals think you have "flamed out" and pull you off the track.
I have lost count of how many times I have had a marshall pick my car up and start heading toward pit row thinking it was a flame out.
I hate to admit it but I have done that once myself. It was a little embarrassing since I was the only other electric driver there.
HH
09-03-2010, 03:45 PM
#29
I've only been in the hobby a very short time, so my experience may be lacking. However, of the club races that I've done where they mixed the electrics with the nitros, it is pretty typical for at least half of the nitro field to not even finish the race for some reason or another.
I've had to pit my own truck before during a race for a battery change, and still managed to win the race. I think E stuff is just smoother, less hassle, and all of the other reasons already mentioned.
ben
I've had to pit my own truck before during a race for a battery change, and still managed to win the race. I think E stuff is just smoother, less hassle, and all of the other reasons already mentioned.
ben
09-03-2010, 06:47 PM
#30
If you put the right stuff together you shouldn't have problems.
http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3076
Back when 1/8th EL got started the little green MM esc with a fan, bec and 4 cell worked very well and still will.
I have 2 MM's and one MMP, my first 1/8th setup was MM & 2000kv, 3000kv then a 2200kv.
I did blow up the 3000kv because I didn't gear it right but the little MM is still going great in my 3 cell mod TC now, it's almost 6 years old.
Gear it right, use the right combo and be happy with your toys like me
http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=3076
Back when 1/8th EL got started the little green MM esc with a fan, bec and 4 cell worked very well and still will.
I have 2 MM's and one MMP, my first 1/8th setup was MM & 2000kv, 3000kv then a 2200kv.
I did blow up the 3000kv because I didn't gear it right but the little MM is still going great in my 3 cell mod TC now, it's almost 6 years old.
Gear it right, use the right combo and be happy with your toys like me