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Old 01-30-2012, 06:21 PM
  #10666  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
Already placed that order and will be here Wednesday. However, the b4 transmission is in excellent condition (ceramic bearings) and just need to replace outdrives. Planning on having as a backup
You might want to check again because the ceramics you bought were for the SC10 tranny which is different than the b4
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:21 PM
  #10667  
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Will a sc10 gear diff fit in the b4.1.
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:25 PM
  #10668  
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Originally Posted by rosko
Will a sc10 gear diff fit in the b4.1.
Yes it will I have ran it in my b4.1
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Old 01-30-2012, 06:53 PM
  #10669  
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Originally Posted by Matt Ward
Yes it will I have ran it in my b4.1
he speaks the truth, because he included it in the box when I bought his car hahaha.
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:22 PM
  #10670  
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Originally Posted by DirtRacer68
I have a similiar question. Will the b4 transmission work in the b4.1 without any modifications?
Originally Posted by jirish617
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it will, I dont see why it wouldnt
Originally Posted by brent701
the whole assy will work just drop it in
some of the in sides cant be switched around.
No, you need to run the T-plate, too. Without the T-plate you can't swap the transmissions.
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:26 PM
  #10671  
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Originally Posted by Just1More
Mine was in the 1670g area with HV 60c stick packs. With the shorty i'm at 1537g, and looking to go lower(seems like the fast locals are close to 1600g). I want to be at the 1500g legal limit then tune the car around the weight. I know the weight makes it more stable, but i want to try and make the shorty pack work because we all know lighter cars are faster cars. I raced with it last weekend and came in 6th out of 12 or so cars, with some terrible first few laps. I'd also like to buy 2 scales, weigh each corner with stick pack and shorty, get the car to 1500g while maintaining the same percentages of each corner, or close to it. Basically making it lighter as a whole rather than just the back end.
Here is mine today with full lipo ready to race



So not much more than yours with full lipo.

Cheers
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:33 PM
  #10672  
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Originally Posted by ViGiLaNtE351
Here is mine today with full lipo ready to race



So not much more than yours with full lipo.

Cheers
Needs more blue.

J/k nice ride!
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:10 PM
  #10673  
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Thanks all,
I put my 2 PDF files up for viewing side by side for both the B4.1 RTR and B4.1 kit and compared part numbers. The transmission is the same. Kinda makes sense, why would a manufacturer make separate parts for basically the same toy car?
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:54 PM
  #10674  
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Question.. changing nothing else (spacers, dampening, springs all the same), what relative difference should be expected if the rear lower shock mount is inside or outside?
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:40 PM
  #10675  
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Originally Posted by Timmahhh
Question.. changing nothing else (spacers, dampening, springs all the same), what relative difference should be expected if the rear lower shock mount is inside or outside?
I've always read, and confirmed, that the more you lay the shock down, the better the ride, at the expense of a little more direct feel.

Stolen from RC Truck and Car Tuning.com, because it's right on the money:

"The more inclined shock angle, moving the top closer to the chassis and/or moving the bottom closer to the tire:
1. Softer initial shock damping.
2. More progressive damping.
3. Improved lateral traction.
4. Handling will be more forgiving.
5. Good for high traction or bite tracks, will it making your rc car or truck more stable.

The less inclined shock angle, standing up the shock, moving the top closer to the tire and/or bottom closer to the chassis:
1. Stiffer initial shock damping.
2. Lowering lateral traction.
3. Makes your rc car or truck more responsive.
4. Can make your car or truck have a more direct feel.
5. Can be best suited for tight, technical tracks with many low speed corners."

I prefer my shocks like my ladies... Laid down all the way, well-oiled, and not leaking overly much. And not squeaky, either.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:48 PM
  #10676  
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just remember changing the bottom position is a much bigger change than changing the top.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:10 PM
  #10677  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
just remember changing the bottom position is a much bigger change than changing the top.
That's what she said.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:28 PM
  #10678  
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LOL, nice posts. While thats true of the shock angle, moving the shock in on the arm reduces effective spring rate, effective dampening, and increases droop... all of which would increase traction in that end of the car with everything else being equal. Or is there something I'm missing?
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:05 AM
  #10679  
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Originally Posted by ViGiLaNtE351
Here is mine today with full lipo ready to race



So not much more than yours with full lipo.

Cheers
you race that thing? what class?
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:12 AM
  #10680  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Yesterday I mounted up a fresh set of V2 Gold Bar Codes....


I reused a set of Pro-Line close cell inserts .


Before gluing, I installed a piece of duct tape , filling the inside middle section of the rim.

Used a piece of tape about a 1 1/2 ft long ...


This helps restore the foams profile & fills the airspace created from wear.


Performs awesome & saves you $ as you can get a extra cycle out of a set of foams...
I did this yesterday. I think I like it. Helps add some volume to the tire!
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