RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
You might want to check again because the ceramics you bought were for the SC10 tranny which is different than the b4
Will a sc10 gear diff fit in the b4.1.
Tech Addict
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Tech Champion
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Tech Elite
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Posts: 2,974
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Tech Master
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: West Sydney, Originally from Tas
Posts: 1,084
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Mine was in the 1670g area with HV 60c stick packs. With the shorty i'm at 1537g, and looking to go lower(seems like the fast locals are close to 1600g). I want to be at the 1500g legal limit then tune the car around the weight. I know the weight makes it more stable, but i want to try and make the shorty pack work because we all know lighter cars are faster cars. I raced with it last weekend and came in 6th out of 12 or so cars, with some terrible first few laps. I'd also like to buy 2 scales, weigh each corner with stick pack and shorty, get the car to 1500g while maintaining the same percentages of each corner, or close to it. Basically making it lighter as a whole rather than just the back end.
So not much more than yours with full lipo.
Cheers
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Thanks all,
I put my 2 PDF files up for viewing side by side for both the B4.1 RTR and B4.1 kit and compared part numbers. The transmission is the same. Kinda makes sense, why would a manufacturer make separate parts for basically the same toy car?
I put my 2 PDF files up for viewing side by side for both the B4.1 RTR and B4.1 kit and compared part numbers. The transmission is the same. Kinda makes sense, why would a manufacturer make separate parts for basically the same toy car?
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Question.. changing nothing else (spacers, dampening, springs all the same), what relative difference should be expected if the rear lower shock mount is inside or outside?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Stolen from RC Truck and Car Tuning.com, because it's right on the money:
"The more inclined shock angle, moving the top closer to the chassis and/or moving the bottom closer to the tire:
1. Softer initial shock damping.
2. More progressive damping.
3. Improved lateral traction.
4. Handling will be more forgiving.
5. Good for high traction or bite tracks, will it making your rc car or truck more stable.
The less inclined shock angle, standing up the shock, moving the top closer to the tire and/or bottom closer to the chassis:
1. Stiffer initial shock damping.
2. Lowering lateral traction.
3. Makes your rc car or truck more responsive.
4. Can make your car or truck have a more direct feel.
5. Can be best suited for tight, technical tracks with many low speed corners."
I prefer my shocks like my ladies... Laid down all the way, well-oiled, and not leaking overly much. And not squeaky, either.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
just remember changing the bottom position is a much bigger change than changing the top.
Tech Elite
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
LOL, nice posts. While thats true of the shock angle, moving the shock in on the arm reduces effective spring rate, effective dampening, and increases droop... all of which would increase traction in that end of the car with everything else being equal. Or is there something I'm missing?
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Yesterday I mounted up a fresh set of V2 Gold Bar Codes....
I reused a set of Pro-Line close cell inserts .
Before gluing, I installed a piece of duct tape , filling the inside middle section of the rim.
Used a piece of tape about a 1 1/2 ft long ...
This helps restore the foams profile & fills the airspace created from wear.
Performs awesome & saves you $ as you can get a extra cycle out of a set of foams...
I reused a set of Pro-Line close cell inserts .
Before gluing, I installed a piece of duct tape , filling the inside middle section of the rim.
Used a piece of tape about a 1 1/2 ft long ...
This helps restore the foams profile & fills the airspace created from wear.
Performs awesome & saves you $ as you can get a extra cycle out of a set of foams...