Eli

iTrader: (15)

must be the 13mm shocks

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

Lol

mingoglia

iTrader: (3)

To me the big advantage is in the front in that you no longer have to remove bearings when washing/changing wheels as they're now no longer in the wheels.

shagnat

iTrader: (55)

Those quick change hubs are really sweet! As my other cars rears wear, I'm switching over to all GT2 quick change hubs.

CnR

iTrader: (31)

where can I find Blue bleeder screws for the shocks ?

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

I got mine at fastener express. Just do not use them as hinge pin capture screws... They are too weak.

CnR

iTrader: (31)

Awesome !!! Thanks, Just ordered a set.

Bubblehead

I had my buggy on the track yesterday for the first time and it developed a chirpping sound under braking on about the fifth time out, ball diff felt smooth.

What could be causing the chirpping?

beidle99

iTrader: (9)

Thinking of picking up a b4.1 wc for the indoor season. Without reading 1420 pages, what are the must have mods? Tuning parts? Also our mod class does well with either a 8.5 or 9.5. A lot of guys run the tekin motors. Any other brands worth a closer look? Any brands to steer clear of?
Thanks in advance

Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Orions or Reedy Sonics are solid uber powerful. Must have mod is the AVID aluminum steering and maybe JC Silent Speed spur gears if you stay with the standard slipper. BB springs.

Jason Snyder

iTrader: (4)

You know in a few instances it was definitely slapping.....but the two main jumps are pretty big and the downsides are pretty flat for as much air as you get....if I landed the car pretty much parallel to the downside surface usually it was pretty smooth and settled.

A huge difference? Nope....noticeable, yes. The #2's felt good. Right now I'm at 32.5 front and 27.5 rear....I'm gonna try 35/30 on Wednesday. Car is pretty dialed but seems like the chassis rolling a bit to fast.

So besides oil I may try a longer front camber link and a different front spring.....I tested some some V1 gold barcodes this weekend..... No comparison between my Losi Pink BK Bars with red AKA insert and my JC Gold v1 barcodes w/ red AKA insert........BK Bars were dominant...I even took the barcodes out in the parking lot and tried to wear em down a bit. Still the BK bars were much better.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

I get a lot more grip with the jc medium inserts with the gold barcodes at my local track, i've found the harder the tire the softer the insert works better for me atleast. Im running on an indoor clay track with medium grip and its a little bumpy.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

Check to see if your diff is slipping, that's what I look at first. Being smooth doesn't indicate that it's not slipping.

If you hold the right tire and then use your to hold the spur, turn the left wheel to see if the diff slips. If your slipper slips, tighten it down a bit and try it again. If the diff slips, tighten it about a 1/8 of a turn and try again. repeat this until it stops slipping. You may also need to tighten your slipper during this process until you get the diff good and tight. I usually hold the spur with my finger and thumb and wedge the right tire between the table and my forearm so that I can feel the resistance before it slip to know if it's at the tension that I want it.


Take your time, and since I know where you race, get Shane or one of the old DRCW guys there to give you a hand if you don't think that you quite got it. You can also find videos on YouTube explaining all this pretty well too. Hope this help, if you need more help feel free to PM me.

Bubblehead

Thanks Rob

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
If it is only happening during braking it is probably not the dif or slipper. They should only make noise during acceleration, you just don't generate enough force to bark the dif or squeal the slipper during braking only.

How high is your brake force set on the ESC? I never really noticed it in 1/10 scale until I got an 1/8 scale, but the engine can make a squeal when you put the brakes on. Try playing with the brake setting on your ESC. If you are at 100% back it down to 50% and try it. If the squeal is less, that is it & afaik it is no problem. If that is the source, set the brake strength by running up to full speed on the track then slam to full brakes. You want the buggy to stop as quickly as possible with out locking up the tires & sliding. Get the setting close with the brake strength on the ESC, then fine tune it with the EPA on the transmitter. This is something that needs to be played with as the day goes by & track conditions change. When the track is dry & dust with little grip you can't use as much braking. When it's slightly damp & really high traction you can use a lot more brakes. Having more brake force available that is matched to the track conditions means you can stay on the throttle a fraction longer, brake harder & still carry more speed through the corner.