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Old 07-13-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Layin' Wood
That's a sharp paint job man.
Thanks, it's from DarkSide Designs.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vw addict
I'm running 18/81 no boost/turbo on a 8.5. It's retarded fast. Running 50c Nanotech packs.
How about with a 13.5 boosted? On the same track I run an SC10 17.5 stock 26/78 but wasn't sure if that same combo would be a good starting point.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Layin' Wood
How about with a 13.5 boosted? On the same track I run an SC10 17.5 stock 26/78 but wasn't sure if that same combo would be a good starting point.
really depends on how much boost..... I was running a 24/81 with my boosted 13.5. But, my boost setting might not = yours.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ilanstylz
So have they replaced the screw with a longer one? Its great that they sent you new ones but if they are just sending new ones with the same issue whats the point?
Anyone know the size of the larger screw for the JC hex? I used some from a friend and they worked like a champ but he wasn't sure what the size was.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
really depends on how much boost..... I was running a 24/81 with my boosted 13.5. But, my boost setting might not = yours.
True but that seems like a good starting point. I will get a little practice once she's all together and then dial the boost in. Thanks.
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:00 PM
  #16566  
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2x6mm for the screw I believe
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:41 PM
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13.5 boosted.... 75/30

jc hex longer screw... m2x6
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:42 PM
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For the RPM bumper it sticks out about an 1/4 inch farther than stock, absorbs more of impact and is great for making small ruts in jumps...

Last edited by umm winning; 07-13-2012 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 07-13-2012, 03:43 PM
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I was 20/84 with timing/boost but it was with a Viper and those suckers have power
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Old 07-13-2012, 06:07 PM
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Hey wildcat-

Havent seen the bumper inaction but could be cool. However I agree with Jmuck I would be concerned what the bumler does if I land with too much pitch down....it could dig in and make things worse. I experienced this with the RPM bumper for my SC10 so i took it off.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:36 PM
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I am at the track now. Indoor high bite. Need the rear to rotate more. Mkre or less shims on the rear camber
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus
13.5 boosted.... 75/30

jc hex longer screw... m2x6
Thanks for the info guys.
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Old 07-13-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am at the track now. Indoor high bite. Need the rear to rotate more. Mkre or less shims on the rear camber
Why not try it both ways? Say hi to Chuck and Richard for me if they are there!
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I am at the track now. Indoor high bite. Need the rear to rotate more. Mkre or less shims on the rear camber

More will free the rear end up and should do what you are looking for. Also if you are running the C plates you could go back to the stock A plates, that would also free the rear end up.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:49 PM
  #16575  
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Originally Posted by umm winning
For the RPM bumper it sticks out about an inch farther than stock, absorbs more of impact and is great for making ruts in jumps...
Umm not really.

The RPM bumper sticks out 1/4 of an inch further than the stock bumper, and doesn't extend past the front tires even when you press the chassis all the way to the ground. It's at least twice as thick, and curves upward sharply enough that you'd be hard-pressed to snag it on anything. My local track is jump city, and I've never snagged. It's secured to the bulkhead by 4 screws, not 2, so it won't strip out.

I've used it ever since the stock one broke by one of the screws and haven't had to think about replacing it. Frankly, the stock "bumper" is a joke. This should be stock.
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