Looking for the most progressive castle link setup :)
#1
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Looking for the most progressive castle link setup :)
Hello,
I need your help. I own a converted 808 which works awesome but I think I could be faster if my castle link setup was more progressive.. I run a Mamba monster and Castle 2200kv motor with hyperion 4S 25C lipos. I need my car to be as smooth as my driving, I'm the exact contrary of the agressive driver, I run offroad almost like an on road driver . This week end I finished 3rd on my second race, I'm a beginner. I only concentrate on having a reliable car and a clean driving.. it works .
Do you have any suggestions for the values of punch control, motor timing, start power etc for the castle link? Thanks!
I need your help. I own a converted 808 which works awesome but I think I could be faster if my castle link setup was more progressive.. I run a Mamba monster and Castle 2200kv motor with hyperion 4S 25C lipos. I need my car to be as smooth as my driving, I'm the exact contrary of the agressive driver, I run offroad almost like an on road driver . This week end I finished 3rd on my second race, I'm a beginner. I only concentrate on having a reliable car and a clean driving.. it works .
Do you have any suggestions for the values of punch control, motor timing, start power etc for the castle link? Thanks!
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (56)
settings
I run the lowest timing,the lowest start power and leave the punch control alone on mine because it is really smooth and does not get hot.All of these settings increased make the motor get hotter because your working the motor more than it is needed.Most racers on here that use the mamba will agree with me on this and have a similiar setup.I also run the 2200kv motor on a turnigy 4s 5000mah 40-50c lipo.
#5
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
What do you mean when you say "leave the punch control alone"? 0% 50%?
The more I drive the more I discover how a slow looking car can be fast in reality. I drove so cool I did the 20 minutes final without changing my lipo. They had 14,7v left at the end . I'll try your setup kman but I'm open to all other suggestions
The more I drive the more I discover how a slow looking car can be fast in reality. I drove so cool I did the 20 minutes final without changing my lipo. They had 14,7v left at the end . I'll try your setup kman but I'm open to all other suggestions
#7
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
I'm doing a list of all parameters that can calm a car down. I'll post it ASAP.
Ok here are the choices I made:
brake amount: 30%, exponential curve
drag brake: disabled (better for the jumps and helps to increase car range)
punch control: 100% (stock: disabled, but it's way too violent for my type of driving)
throttle curve: exponential
reverse throttle: 50%
motor timing: lowest (0)
start power: low
I think this might be one of the most progressive setup possible
Ok here are the choices I made:
brake amount: 30%, exponential curve
drag brake: disabled (better for the jumps and helps to increase car range)
punch control: 100% (stock: disabled, but it's way too violent for my type of driving)
throttle curve: exponential
reverse throttle: 50%
motor timing: lowest (0)
start power: low
I think this might be one of the most progressive setup possible
Last edited by Pulse_; 07-13-2010 at 11:26 AM.
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Use EXP in your radio to make it 'feel' smoother. A sensored setup would be also be much smoother (MMPro or RX8 with a Tekin motor).
Keep in mind that if you use any punch control you may lose some runtime and have a strange delay if there are any jumps right out of corners. Lots of people tend to squeeze the throttle harder to compensate for the softer feeling bottom end.
Keep in mind that if you use any punch control you may lose some runtime and have a strange delay if there are any jumps right out of corners. Lots of people tend to squeeze the throttle harder to compensate for the softer feeling bottom end.
#11
Settings from my precies MMM 2200kv combo:
Timing: 0 degrees
Start power: low
Punch control: 40% (more is too much for jumping )
Neutral deadband: 2nd lowest setting (very low)
25% expo on the throttle channel of my radio.
Now I run a Neu 1512 1850kv (and 20-30% punch) which is smoother than the 2200kv Castle motor. I just recieved traction drive and tested it on the street and it smooths out the car too.
Timing: 0 degrees
Start power: low
Punch control: 40% (more is too much for jumping )
Neutral deadband: 2nd lowest setting (very low)
25% expo on the throttle channel of my radio.
Now I run a Neu 1512 1850kv (and 20-30% punch) which is smoother than the 2200kv Castle motor. I just recieved traction drive and tested it on the street and it smooths out the car too.
#12
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Settings from my precies MMM 2200kv combo:
Timing: 0 degrees
Start power: low
Punch control: 40% (more is too much for jumping )
Neutral deadband: 2nd lowest setting (very low)
25% expo on the throttle channel of my radio.
Now I run a Neu 1512 1850kv (and 20-30% punch) which is smoother than the 2200kv Castle motor. I just recieved traction drive and tested it on the street and it smooths out the car too.
Timing: 0 degrees
Start power: low
Punch control: 40% (more is too much for jumping )
Neutral deadband: 2nd lowest setting (very low)
25% expo on the throttle channel of my radio.
Now I run a Neu 1512 1850kv (and 20-30% punch) which is smoother than the 2200kv Castle motor. I just recieved traction drive and tested it on the street and it smooths out the car too.
#13
A kind of slip clutch, but still direct drive. Feels like a direct nitro car It's something new from Tekno. It arrived this morning and it tested it this evening and it makes the car smoother.
This is traktion drive: http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=5731
This is traktion drive: http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=5731
#14
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
Use EXP in your radio to make it 'feel' smoother. A sensored setup would be also be much smoother (MMPro or RX8 with a Tekin motor).
I used an exponential curve for both brakes and throttle on the castle link. I was thinking about putting some exponential n the throttle but I read the manual of my DX3S and they say the expo on the throttle is only for nitro cars.. Do you agree with that?
Keep in mind that if you use any punch control you may lose some runtime and have a strange delay if there are any jumps right out of corners. Lots of people tend to squeeze the throttle harder to compensate for the softer feeling bottom end.
I prefer to use all the travel of my trigger. Most of the time I feel the car is a little too nervous under the throttle, even if I'm gentle. I'll push the trigger harder for the jumps but as I said I raced the last week end, I had the punch control set at 100% and my 808 was still flying well
I used an exponential curve for both brakes and throttle on the castle link. I was thinking about putting some exponential n the throttle but I read the manual of my DX3S and they say the expo on the throttle is only for nitro cars.. Do you agree with that?
Keep in mind that if you use any punch control you may lose some runtime and have a strange delay if there are any jumps right out of corners. Lots of people tend to squeeze the throttle harder to compensate for the softer feeling bottom end.
I prefer to use all the travel of my trigger. Most of the time I feel the car is a little too nervous under the throttle, even if I'm gentle. I'll push the trigger harder for the jumps but as I said I raced the last week end, I had the punch control set at 100% and my 808 was still flying well
I have an e-revo and it uses a slipper you're right. I have to think about this solution! Where do you put the elektri-clutch exactly?
#15
The elektri clutch is made for Tekno chasis, but it may fit if you flip the diff. I dont know if anyone tried that before?