Kyosho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 Thread
#3392
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Not taking any bumps into account this is what I have been told and have always went my as a general rule of thumb;
Less Caster:
less steering entering corners, more exit steering
More caster:
more steering entering corners
less exit steering
Of course, camber link location, ballstud heights (in and out), and ackerman can make the caster feel differently. Along with general track type/style and surface (bumpy or smooth).
When I had the 10's on, the steering was just a bit too much for me, but if I could stay super smooth with steering input, I could turn under almost anyone in the corners. The down side for me was that if I wasn't careful, the car felt very unpredictable at time and I might turn into a pipe or blow the corner all together. I didn't change anything other than the caster blocks, if I had changed a couple or three other things, I think I could have made it feel differently.
#3393
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
Hey Busta, Im unsure about the effects of the one way too but i found this, I hope this helps somewhat..would be interesting to give it a run. Have a read..
A one way diff contains two one-way bearings, which mean that the front wheels can freewheel individually faster than the rear. This acts as a kind of substitute for a third differential, and lets the car corner faster without the tyres scrubbing (the front wheels need to turn faster than the rears for efficient cornering, a standard 2-diff car can't achieve this)
When braking and coasting, the only braking effect is on the rear wheels, this can make the car unstable, and also serves to sharpen the steering.
On power, when the wheels are spinning, the diff acts like a solid axle, which can pull the car around the corner, without "diffing out".
A one-way pulley has similar effect, but less pronounced, as the retention of a front diff adds some stability
Price - $40 to $60 us dollars. But factor in a few drive shafts with that, as front diff's are brutal on them.
Alot of people prefer front ball diff's becuase it makes the car more forgiving. Generally a car is more inclined to push with a front diff and oversteer with a front oneway.
It all depends on what you run and your driving style. If you brake alot you'll need to learn how to roll through corners instead of brake/power out. The straighter you keep your wheels the faster your car is capable of going. Thus why the front one-way is such a great advantage in mid-high traction conditions. Basically you can have the dual rates at 65% and have the same amount of steering that you had with your ball diff up front and the dual rates set at 100%. The less your tires turns the lesser the friction, so there is less time scrubbed each lap during cornering.
A one way diff contains two one-way bearings, which mean that the front wheels can freewheel individually faster than the rear. This acts as a kind of substitute for a third differential, and lets the car corner faster without the tyres scrubbing (the front wheels need to turn faster than the rears for efficient cornering, a standard 2-diff car can't achieve this)
When braking and coasting, the only braking effect is on the rear wheels, this can make the car unstable, and also serves to sharpen the steering.
On power, when the wheels are spinning, the diff acts like a solid axle, which can pull the car around the corner, without "diffing out".
A one-way pulley has similar effect, but less pronounced, as the retention of a front diff adds some stability
Price - $40 to $60 us dollars. But factor in a few drive shafts with that, as front diff's are brutal on them.
Alot of people prefer front ball diff's becuase it makes the car more forgiving. Generally a car is more inclined to push with a front diff and oversteer with a front oneway.
It all depends on what you run and your driving style. If you brake alot you'll need to learn how to roll through corners instead of brake/power out. The straighter you keep your wheels the faster your car is capable of going. Thus why the front one-way is such a great advantage in mid-high traction conditions. Basically you can have the dual rates at 65% and have the same amount of steering that you had with your ball diff up front and the dual rates set at 100%. The less your tires turns the lesser the friction, so there is less time scrubbed each lap during cornering.
#3394
Tech Adept
iTrader: (11)
Can someone please post a pic of how they have added weight to the buggy's rear... I currently have the aluminum chassis stiffener installed and want to add more weight in between the saddle packs...any pics/recommendations will be very grateful.
I just weighed the chassis stiffener and it weighs approx 12.5 grams so I would like to add about another 38 grams as a starting point.
I just weighed the chassis stiffener and it weighs approx 12.5 grams so I would like to add about another 38 grams as a starting point.
#3395
It's super easy to add weight if you have the stiffener. Just double side tape some lead right on top of it. You can move them towards the front or rear depending on the feel your trying to achieve. I like the weights close to the rear.
#3396
i have test my new front shock tower this think is awesome and with 4mm it is a hammer...............
#3397
I have a couple 82 spur gears that came with the car but I can't seem to get them to stop hitting on the bottom of the chassis. Is there something you have to do to use these or should I order a 78 spur.
#3400
What's a good starting point on gearing for a 6.5? I use the 78 tooth spur. Just switched from a 7.5 down to the 6.5 and don't want to over heat it.