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Old 09-17-2013, 06:11 AM
  #3391  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Use the 7 degree caster blocks. The 10's make the car super twitchy over all mostly.
Kinda strange .. I found the opposite... maybe it depends on driving styles

More caster helps to aid bumpy conditions and overall make it easier to drive...less steering into corners and more of a 'point and shoot" style of driving.
but that's just what i found.....
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:35 AM
  #3392  
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Originally Posted by cotto68
Kinda strange .. I found the opposite... maybe it depends on driving styles

More caster helps to aid bumpy conditions and overall make it easier to drive...less steering into corners and more of a 'point and shoot" style of driving.
but that's just what i found.....
I'd have to agree that driving style could play a part. Also didn't take in to account any front kick up shims either, which could change the way the car feels as well. As it not only can change the kick up, but can slightly change the caster as well, if I am looking at it right. The K cars are for sure on the slightly over adjustable side and they don't exactly make it easy to follow all of the various adjustments.

Not taking any bumps into account this is what I have been told and have always went my as a general rule of thumb;

Less Caster:
less steering entering corners, more exit steering

More caster:
more steering entering corners
less exit steering

Of course, camber link location, ballstud heights (in and out), and ackerman can make the caster feel differently. Along with general track type/style and surface (bumpy or smooth).

When I had the 10's on, the steering was just a bit too much for me, but if I could stay super smooth with steering input, I could turn under almost anyone in the corners. The down side for me was that if I wasn't careful, the car felt very unpredictable at time and I might turn into a pipe or blow the corner all together. I didn't change anything other than the caster blocks, if I had changed a couple or three other things, I think I could have made it feel differently.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:41 AM
  #3393  
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Originally Posted by cotto68
Hey Busta, Im unsure about the effects of the one way too but i found this, I hope this helps somewhat..would be interesting to give it a run. Have a read..

A one way diff contains two one-way bearings, which mean that the front wheels can freewheel individually faster than the rear. This acts as a kind of substitute for a third differential, and lets the car corner faster without the tyres scrubbing (the front wheels need to turn faster than the rears for efficient cornering, a standard 2-diff car can't achieve this)

When braking and coasting, the only braking effect is on the rear wheels, this can make the car unstable, and also serves to sharpen the steering.

On power, when the wheels are spinning, the diff acts like a solid axle, which can pull the car around the corner, without "diffing out".

A one-way pulley has similar effect, but less pronounced, as the retention of a front diff adds some stability

Price - $40 to $60 us dollars. But factor in a few drive shafts with that, as front diff's are brutal on them.

Alot of people prefer front ball diff's becuase it makes the car more forgiving. Generally a car is more inclined to push with a front diff and oversteer with a front oneway.

It all depends on what you run and your driving style. If you brake alot you'll need to learn how to roll through corners instead of brake/power out. The straighter you keep your wheels the faster your car is capable of going. Thus why the front one-way is such a great advantage in mid-high traction conditions. Basically you can have the dual rates at 65% and have the same amount of steering that you had with your ball diff up front and the dual rates set at 100%. The less your tires turns the lesser the friction, so there is less time scrubbed each lap during cornering.
Thanks cotto68, very helpfull mate
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:52 AM
  #3394  
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Can someone please post a pic of how they have added weight to the buggy's rear... I currently have the aluminum chassis stiffener installed and want to add more weight in between the saddle packs...any pics/recommendations will be very grateful.
I just weighed the chassis stiffener and it weighs approx 12.5 grams so I would like to add about another 38 grams as a starting point.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:44 AM
  #3395  
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It's super easy to add weight if you have the stiffener. Just double side tape some lead right on top of it. You can move them towards the front or rear depending on the feel your trying to achieve. I like the weights close to the rear.
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Old 09-20-2013, 09:23 PM
  #3396  
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i have test my new front shock tower this think is awesome and with 4mm it is a hammer...............
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Lazer ZX5 FS/FS2 Thread-img_20130920_133248.jpg  
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:35 AM
  #3397  
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I have a couple 82 spur gears that came with the car but I can't seem to get them to stop hitting on the bottom of the chassis. Is there something you have to do to use these or should I order a 78 spur.
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:56 AM
  #3398  
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Originally Posted by kyok2
I have a couple 82 spur gears that came with the car but I can't seem to get them to stop hitting on the bottom of the chassis. Is there something you have to do to use these or should I order a 78 spur.
Have you tired removing the chassis insert/plug under the spur?

That might give you the clearance you are looking for, but with out a chassis protector on there, could allow little rocks/dirt to get packed in the spur teeth. Otherwise, you'll need a 78 spur
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:41 AM
  #3399  
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Does anyone have any insight on a replacement option for the bulk heads. I have a tendency to break them frequently.
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:48 AM
  #3400  
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What's a good starting point on gearing for a 6.5? I use the 78 tooth spur. Just switched from a 7.5 down to the 6.5 and don't want to over heat it.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank L
Does anyone have any insight on a replacement option for the bulk heads. I have a tendency to break them frequently.
Man just listen to me Frank,

It's super easy, don't crash. LOL. Next time I'm around, I'll show ya the different parts I was talking about. Oh and loose the Carbon/graphite towers you're running, that may be a big part of your issues.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:03 PM
  #3402  
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Originally Posted by C_Money
What's a good starting point on gearing for a 6.5? I use the 78 tooth spur. Just switched from a 7.5 down to the 6.5 and don't want to over heat it.
Maybe drop down a couple teeth from what you were running for a pinion gear on the 7.5. Should be a safe gearing to start with.
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:06 PM
  #3403  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
Maybe drop down a couple teeth from what you were running for a pinion gear on the 7.5. Should be a safe gearing to start with.
I'm just going faster than you. Muahahaha. And I have a 7.0 strapped in there maybe it needs a 6.5
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Old 09-23-2013, 07:30 PM
  #3404  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I'm just going faster than you. Muahahaha. And I have a 7.0 strapped in there maybe it needs a 6.5
Faster than this guy? Don't think so. You haven yet to beat me when it counts.

BTW, when you can Cary proof you wheeler, you'll have the car that can beat me. LOL.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:37 PM
  #3405  
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