303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

It will come with the parts needed to do rear and mid motor. It does it all with one kit.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

ASC91406
TDRTD330382
And B4 rear hexes
Yes, B4 rear hexes. Look at your axle and note how it steps down from 5mm just a little bit to the wheel mounting area...it's a 3/16" axle! Use the B4 clamping rear hexes used in the B4.2...I tried to find a PN on Tower really quick, but couldn't. I suppose one could use PL or Jcon's, but I had the Jcon ones on my T4 and bent one (no BS, it was BENT)

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Speaking of which, I now have a ton of 14mm wheels/tires and front tires for the 210 I wouldn't mind unloading. I'd rather not bake them all off...the wife doesn't go out of town, so I'd never get away with it.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

if you have tires that are for dirt conditions ( holeshots and bigger treads up to step pins) I could be interested depending on price. Would want super soft compounds, or M3 and softer if proline.


So for this conversion, am I missing something or will this work pretty much on any dex210 version?

JustinL7294

iTrader: (3)

I see there is sway bar mounts but what sway bars fit this kit?

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Does the conversion listed above leave the car with the same wheel offsets/width as stock? Would make someone that has some B4/B5 wheels/tires a little more interested in the 210.

Azagar

iTrader: (7)

Not exactly. These were my findings when measuring all the offsets. It's not a simple conversion if you want to maintain the stock offsets.

T-BirdJunkie

iTrader: (10)

Should work for the V2, since the axles and front end parts are the same. The DEX210 is, by nature, a bit narrower than the B5M, but it's right, as far as stock vs conversion goes. Remember, Durango used a B4 during development for the DEX210
Are you interested in Calibers, IFMAR studs, IFMAR pins, and the like? PM me.
I have a B4.2 and a B5M, which is why I did what I did.

CaseyDDR

iTrader: (57)

Just bought my 210v2, next day shipped it so I can race it this Sunday. GJ Cain :P

Cain

iTrader: (294)

lol. Let me know how it goes, looking forward to hearing how that setup works out you are looking to try.

CaseyDDR

iTrader: (57)

I think I'm going to set it up as MM since we get preference on the track, with all the traction I bet it works great.

Dino_D

The v2 comes with parts to run either RM or MM. If you have the grip, then MM. If not RM maybe more consistent if the grip changes thru the day.
One option part you may want to consider is running a brass 1.5 rear front suspension holder from RDRP. It places more weight near the rear axles which will give you more grip if traction is Med or if the track starts to dry during your heat. You don't need it if you run RM.
Maybe pick up Dark Green Fronts, and Black Rears as a tuning option. - one rate harder than stock (Stock comes with black front, light blue rears)

And run the plastic HRC block, not the supplied aluminum LRC -2 block. The LRC is good for sugared outdoor tracks or indoor med/high grip clay tracks.

knowitall156

iTrader: (10)

If you would, elaborate on your reasoning for the hrc rear block. I get it if your running the 1.5 front, but what if you run the 0 front and the -2 lrc rear block.

Waflet

iTrader: (35)

Hideeho
I recently got a used dex210v1. I have 2 problems with it.

1. When I set my EPA to get full turning every now & then the inside wheel locks into place. The steering arm on the hub gets bounced past a straight line with the turnbuckle. Is there a simple way to fix this? I have the axles in position 4 (full back) & the hub full forwards. I have no bump steer washers on the arm & 2.5mm on the Ackerman + 2mm order the steering blocks. This setup gets me zero bump steer, but I'm wondering if this is the source of my binding.

2. The chassis has at week in front of the steering blocks (could this be the source of my problem from #1?) & a couple of the screw holes in side pods are strpped out. Does anyone have an old v1 chassis &/or side pods they could let go for cheap?

I also have a question. How tight does the dif & slipper need to be set? I used to set my b4 dif to 1/8 turn off full tight & the slipper tight enough to lift the front wheels 3". Will this be a good starting point for the 210 as well?

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like you may have old c-hubs, they were revised to stop the steering knuckle from travelling too far and locking up