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Old 11-02-2011, 01:16 PM
  #1471  
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To bad no one has one in stock. Ready to buy....lol
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Huleboer
I feel the same way about them, and I've got no sponsers

But would you compare it to the 1257? Slightly faster but not as strong. Would that be better for this kind of buggy?
Hey everyone,

This is a tip that I picked up from a friend named Mike Kochanski.....he is a talented local buggy racers..who should be racing more short course. Anyway I started out with the Savox 1258tg for my original 2wd short course truck.....but once I decided to get a buggy and then a 4wd short course I and i needed more servo's Mike told me he tries to buy all the same servo that way if something happens and he needs to swap them around they are always going to feel the same because of the speed....and I chose the 1258tg because @167 oz and 0.08 transit speed its strong enough and fast enough for all 10th scale applications and even some 1/8th scale applications......
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:06 PM
  #1473  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
The Dex has better rear tire/forward traction than any of the other buggies I have owned and raced, by a noticeable margin. If you fight tire spin, i.e. rear forward traction is scarce, the Dex is THEE buggy for you. build it in 4 gear/rear motor (RM4), and you will be amazed.
+1. Cush never really was able to get comfortable with his B4, and while he was pretty fast with the 22, he was never really able to push it. With the 210, the harder he pushes the better it responds. It's on power stability is unreal- the thing just hunkers down and flat gets it.
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:34 PM
  #1474  
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bigshane from rc race chat, testing the new buggy at vegas rc raceway.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8U5E3HfmM8
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Old 11-02-2011, 03:57 PM
  #1475  
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Any parts in stock anywhere yet? Arms etc the stuff thats green on Durangos site?

Thanks
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:05 PM
  #1476  
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The car looks to be pushing on exit of the corners.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:12 PM
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looks good! but i want to see it raced against the b4 and 22! this buggy market is getting unbelievably competative
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
The car looks to be pushing on exit of the corners.
Looks like its lazy mid corner witch leads to exit push. Three interesting options it offers tho.
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Old 11-02-2011, 08:38 PM
  #1479  
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I have a few noob questions. This will be my first 2wd buggy and I will be going with a Tekin RS and a Tekin Redline motor. What turn motor do you guys recommend for a noob to 2wd buggy? Also what pinion to run on the suggested motor? I'm just doing some "homework" before I start making purchases.
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Old 11-02-2011, 09:50 PM
  #1480  
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Originally Posted by xDIEGOx
I have a few noob questions. This will be my first 2wd buggy and I will be going with a Tekin RS and a Tekin Redline motor. What turn motor do you guys recommend for a noob to 2wd buggy? Also what pinion to run on the suggested motor? I'm just doing some "homework" before I start making purchases.

Hey Diego,

Those are both good questions......Tekin makes good products and I've used them with great success in the past.....

The motor size really depends on what classes your local track has....if they have a stock class which is generally 17.5 that's a good place to start and with the Tekin RS you can always add timing in and that 17.5 will feel perform like a 10.5.....that's no joke....guys here in Joliet , IL @ Leisure Hours Raceway have ran boosted 17.5 tekin motors in mod short course trucks and done extremely well against guys running 8.5t's.....

Now if your track doesn't have a stock class and only runs mod you may want to start out with something faster......here's the deal.....if your budget will allow you to buy a new motor in a month or two as you get more comfortable and faster with your new buggy than I would say feel free to start off with a 13.5 or a 10.5t.........if you can only afford one motor over the next couple of months that I would say shoot for a 7.5 or an 8.5 and just turn down the boost in your esc and try limiting your epa...in your radio to slow the motor down. As you get faster turn up the epa until your at 100% and then you can play around with boost and turbo.

Good luck, I'm sure you'll be happy no matter what.....most of the time club level races are won with clean driving not horsepower.
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:47 PM
  #1481  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
What part# did you use for the rear Lunsford turnbuckle? #1062?
I believe they are #1064? Actually you need to order two different sizes, one is 44mm(45mm?) long, and the rear is actually 35mm long from Lunsford. Remember to order two pairs 44mm, for steering and camber link.
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:45 AM
  #1482  
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For those of you that have owned this buggy for a while, please enlighten me as to why no one and I mean NO ONE has the buggy in stock and very little parts available. How to you guys and girls get by when you can't even buy wheels?

I have heard good things about this buggy, watched it run, and would like to buy one. But when I started to look I found out you cant get them.

I would really like to know how a company expects to survive when they can't even provide parts for the cars they sell?

I know that the first batch of cars sold out, etc. But how long does it take to make another batch?

How long have you guys been waiting for parts and how do you get by in the meantime?

Has anyone contacted Durango about this issue? I emailed them but did not get a response. I am ready to buy the 210, 410, and parts.

Very frustrating, and poor management on their part. Sorry for the rant.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:24 AM
  #1483  
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They strive for quality, I would rather put out a product that does what it says than get all the bad press when it doesn't.

Some clever marketing on their part as well, now when the parts come out Im sure people will stock up or buy other kits so you are not left without parts.

Thats really what Im looking at doing now.
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:37 AM
  #1484  
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I must admit I am having some issues with the diff as well. I did the two allen key thing until it does not slip in hand then installed it. It was free and slipper loose but you can hear the diff bark so bit by bit I tighten it but I get to a point then the circlip has too much pressure on it and pops causing it to lose diff action. Both wheel spin the same way. I have installed it correctly and built it right. Any suggestions
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Old 11-03-2011, 02:55 AM
  #1485  
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are you 100% sure you have built it right? even checked the thrust bearing washers as they are different diameter, enough grease
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