Durango DEX210 Thread
Always thought if I got up to Seattle again that I'd like to check them out. Last time I was through there I stopped check out Fantasy World Hobbies, cause I'd been getting some slot car supplies on-line from them. Have a good time.
Tech Master
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My old friends say it's one of the best facilities in the Country if you can believe it…..
Tech Master
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Does anyone know if the new 210 will have a longer aluminum chassis? I want to buy either the RDRP or the exotek but if the new car has a longer aluminum chassis I will probably wait. Thanks!
Tech Master
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This is a tough question to answer without knowing what track you are racing on. My preference is the aluminum over the Dimec as the Dimec is just too large, that being said I haven't run it. HOWEVER, many guys seem to like a longer chassis on the DEX210. Lots of aftermarket versions that are longer as well.
So which track do you race on? Have you run it stock yet? What did you think?
Generally speaking the longer chassis seems to be more stable with more forward traction, typically you also get a little less rotation. As soon as I have a chance to test the difference I will comment more. I would also do some searching in the forums as I think this may have been discussed in depth previously. Hope that helps!
So which track do you race on? Have you run it stock yet? What did you think?
Generally speaking the longer chassis seems to be more stable with more forward traction, typically you also get a little less rotation. As soon as I have a chance to test the difference I will comment more. I would also do some searching in the forums as I think this may have been discussed in depth previously. Hope that helps!
I actually got the DIMEC Type B with one I just bought and I think I am going to hold off. If I change it I am thinking of going CF or aluminum.
With that said Novice, PM me if you decide on the Type B. I have everything it needs.
Now my question is. I have a couple of the Solar D771 servos coming in. I also have a Hitec MG645 that needs a gear and it's good as new. Should I go with the high speed cheapies or should I fix the Hitec for $15 and use that?
With that said Novice, PM me if you decide on the Type B. I have everything it needs.
Now my question is. I have a couple of the Solar D771 servos coming in. I also have a Hitec MG645 that needs a gear and it's good as new. Should I go with the high speed cheapies or should I fix the Hitec for $15 and use that?
The 645mg Hitec is a really good servo, but it does have 1 plastic gear. Sell all 3 servos you have and get one that is all metal gear, similar to Radio Post blue heat sink or ProTek R/C 100SS, .09 sec / 60* and 168oz-in @ 6v. $50 at A-Main.
I run on so many different track conditions that there is no way that I could pin it to one particular type. That's why I asked for an overall better option. The way it sounds though, one is good on one type of track, and the other is good on the other.
For now its good enough. I just got a Spektrum I put in my sc10. I'm going to use the Hitec in my buggy for now, then maybe swap for the solar. If that blows then I'll spend some money and put these in my RC10s.
Tech Master
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Novice Racer you are right: Every tuning part is going to offer different results for your ride/track. From my research and experience a softer chassis as opposed to stiffer will generally offer more traction because the whole car can flex. It will also make the car a little easier to drive given it doesn't react as quickly given more flex. Opposingly, a stiffer chassis will allow the car to be more reactive and generally be faster on high traction surfaces. It will also react more heavily to your setup changes.
Generally there are no better options...Only different. Tuning is a balancing act. You always give something up to get something else.
Lastly, always make sure you try some different tire combinations before you go crazy with setup changes. Tires are 90% of your setup.
Generally there are no better options...Only different. Tuning is a balancing act. You always give something up to get something else.
Lastly, always make sure you try some different tire combinations before you go crazy with setup changes. Tires are 90% of your setup.
Tech Addict
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I've been using the solar in mine since the beginning of the summer and it's still going strong. It's worth 15 bucks for sure
Chassis flex is one thing that I have always disagreed with. I have never believed it necessary under any circumstances even though many others swear it is at times. I believe that it's a bandaid for poor tuning techniques. I was happy to see someone else seem to confirm this in a way. Check out the interview with Bob Stellfue at AE. He's the lead engineer of the B5. His comment about chassis choice for it is quite telling and refreshing.
chassis flex is might be bad in real cars. but it is a nice tuning option in rc. It makes a very easy to feel difference.
Novice Racer you are right: Every tuning part is going to offer different results for your ride/track. From my research and experience a softer chassis as opposed to stiffer will generally offer more traction because the whole car can flex. It will also make the car a little easier to drive given it doesn't react as quickly given more flex. Opposingly, a stiffer chassis will allow the car to be more reactive and generally be faster on high traction surfaces. It will also react more heavily to your setup changes.
Generally there are no better options...Only different. Tuning is a balancing act. You always give something up to get something else.
Lastly, always make sure you try some different tire combinations before you go crazy with setup changes. Tires are 90% of your setup.
Generally there are no better options...Only different. Tuning is a balancing act. You always give something up to get something else.
Lastly, always make sure you try some different tire combinations before you go crazy with setup changes. Tires are 90% of your setup.
At this point in my buggy racing career, I am still learning to drive something so small and nimble, So Given that and the higher chance that I will be running at lower bite tracks in the coming outdoor season, would a swap to a plus 8 plastic chassis be better for me?