P6

iTrader: (5)

Kinda dumb question but Im a little confused at how I'm getting my percentages I got four 1000g scales my total weight flip switch and go is 1595g ,, I'm happy with that and I have 10g under servo and wires to clean up ,,, my front weight is 552g with the battery full forward and it was 519g battery full back what's my % I'm not sure if I'm right but I think I'm 69%-71% ,, I have a 30g brass rf and my esc as far back as possible I'm only off within 3g on the rearand front was off by .7g

nolimit208

iTrader: (8)

Both but would do the toe first, rm4 may give you too much rear grip. but if on a really loomy track rm4 might be preferred

zipperfoot

iTrader: (16)

Does having scales for each corner help? I once knew a guy who used scales to balance his b4, but then couldn't stay on the track to save his life, so I didn't put much weight on the idea! HA...

I can tell if my camber if off but that's about it. If the buggy jumps right, and I have traction, I leave well enough alone. But I can't help but wonder would I notice if my buggy was scale balanced? How do you do it?

ekt

iTrader: (4)

With your battery forward you have a 34.6/65.4 balance, 32.5/67.5 with it rear.

P6

iTrader: (5)

im guessing it helps that was me throwing it on from current setup i havent moved anything yet it was balanced jumping and controllable mid air and i do use toe/camber gauges and i know those make a difference , originally i tried to center all the weight then the receiver is 5g so i put it closer in the side pod than i would the 3g transponder and i ran the wires on the side and middle so the motor doesn't offset with the wire weight to ,,, i just keep finding but im not sure if its right use 4 scales under each tire at ride height then add for total then divide the front weight by the total and subtract that number by 100 ,,i did the same with my scrt10 and i have it set up where i thought it was well balanced it was 51% rear and only off 5g in the back right

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

I want to personally thank "singlemike" for sending me a front hub carrier. That was a really nice gesture dude, as you don't even know me. Look for a small gift coming your way.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

Thats cool, glad someone helped you out man..Nice work singlemike...

P6

iTrader: (5)

can you please explain the math behind it to me it just seems like im getting the wrong numbers myself and i custom drilled my battery stops for my smaller sized esc and low profile servo so i have 127mm to move a 95mm shorty back n forth i have 10g i can pull off the front and im wanting to move the esc forward a few mm and cleaning the wires getting titanium ballstuds so then i can switch to stock also and my goal is 58%-66% rear bias by just moving the the esc i can mount with velcro and shorty pack with the rest of the spare space

ekt

iTrader: (4)

You take the front or rear weight and divide it by the total weight, then multiply by 100 to get the bias for that side.
To work out how much weight you need to get your wanted bias you multiply the wanted bias by the total weight and divide by 100(adding additional weight will change calculation).
With a total weight of 1595g to achieve a 66% rear bias you want the rear to weigh ~1053g without adding addition weight to the car.

Rob Phillips

iTrader: (6)

Gearing Question:

Is 8.70:1 ratio in the ball park for 8.5t?

silden

iTrader: (12)

Hi Guys, I'm in the marked for my first buggy since 4 years.
I want to know how durable is the DEX210?
What for spare parts I will need to keep the buggy running?

Thank you for your help

ekt

iTrader: (4)

Novak recommends ~9 with no timing. http://teamnovak.com/tech_info/brush...r_gearing.html

I have found the buggy to be very durable. Towers, RF suspension holders and front/rear hubs are the parts people report breaking most. Arms are always handy to have spare. Shimming your rear tower out 1mm away from the transmission case will reduce chance of breakage in crashes.
As for aftermarket parts, aluminium RF suspension holders are recommended as the hinge pins tend to rip out of the plastic ones during heavy crashes and aluminium/carbon fiber steering racks remove the flex the stock plastic piece has for more consistent steering.

Radi0Flyer

Replace shock towers with aluminum ones from RDRP - Revolution Design Racing Products. I got mine from A Main hobbies. Only broke the rears but replaced the front too as preventative maintenance. Some people are also breaking C hubs so that's another part you might want to look at. The 87t spur is a bit big to get decent gearing as the biggest pinion you can fit with it is a 24 or 25 tooth. Get an 81t spur.

The only other things that have broken (from huge crashes) are one of the shocks pulled apart. I used RDRP bottom caps to replace the broken plastic ones. And also the rear bulkhead mount part# 330341-3 broke the last time out. Probably just going to replace with stock pieces as these are not really weak. It was just a bad crash with a new driver at the controls that popped it.



Sean

nismomike

iTrader: (6)

Just a couple pics all finished. Ran awesome yesterday. Getting dialed for Cactus. The inline esc seemed to help the car change direction faster. No additional body roll.

LoudOne

iTrader: (36)

That is one sweet looking ride! What is the black lining that you put over your wires? Where could I buy some?