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Old 02-11-2013, 03:33 PM
  #10216  
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Originally Posted by glenng
The tint is sweet dude! i especially like it on the wing too! i tried pactra spray can tint on a wing, but found it very hard to spray on a clean coat without it running, dripping, etc. what kinda tint did you use? it looks real good. very nice man.
Thats what I used, I sprayed across the wing twice, let dry twice again. so very light coatss
I found it can splatter on if the can isnt at room temperature, if its cold it hates it.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:10 PM
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havent seen anything on here about fit or anything i just got my xtremerc rear camber mount, its 6061 aluminum so its a lighter color and lighter feeling than i expected, fits good with 2mm spacer under the camber link had to dremel off the gearbox tabs it has three holes the two inner are where the gear cases would be
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:31 PM
  #10218  
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Knowitall, I moved mine in 5mm and used about a 2mm drill bit. Works great.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by patrick
Knowitall, I moved mine in 5mm and used about a 2mm drill bit. Works great.
Thanks Patrick.

Mike
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:24 AM
  #10220  
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Originally Posted by patrick
Knowitall, I moved mine in 5mm and used about a 2mm drill bit. Works great.
Ya mines about the same. I took the dremel to the side of the gearbox so the ball stud would clear better without any spacers below it just in case I run without them.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by nolimit208
Ya mines about the same. I took the dremel to the side of the gearbox so the ball stud would clear better without any spacers below it just in case I run without them.
Did the mod in about 5 minutes last night and it worked perfect. Looking forward to finishing the build and giving the 2 wheel drive buggy class a shot.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:52 AM
  #10222  
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Anyone try removing 2mm from the gearbox to raise the roll center? I saw it on the AE thread, so I tried it. It really improves the rear rotation on high bite, clay surfaces.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:03 AM
  #10223  
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Originally Posted by Heavy B
Anyone try removing 2mm from the gearbox to raise the roll center? I saw it on the AE thread, so I tried it. It really improves the rear rotation on high bite, clay surfaces.
Link?



Sean
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:35 PM
  #10224  
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Originally Posted by Heavy B
Anyone try removing 2mm from the gearbox to raise the roll center? I saw it on the AE thread, so I tried it. It really improves the rear rotation on high bite, clay surfaces.
Also saw that Jorn Neuman milled 2mm off the bottom of the rear pivot block. Wouldn't that just provide more kick up?
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:51 PM
  #10225  
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Originally Posted by knowitall156
Also saw that Jorn Neuman milled 2mm off the bottom of the rear pivot block. Wouldn't that just provide more kick up?
From PetitRC (on Jorn's buggy)
"On the rear of the car the lower rear wishbone mounts have been machined to be 2mm lower than the current lowest position which gives improve forward bite and better landing capabilities."

I can't for the life of me picture where this 2mm lowering is....?!?! Can anybody point this out? Are they talking about the RR hanger? The one in this picture... I assume.

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:59 PM
  #10226  
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Originally Posted by ewashburnaf
From PetitRC (on Jorn's buggy)
"On the rear of the car the lower rear wishbone mounts have been machined to be 2mm lower than the current lowest position which gives improve forward bite and better landing capabilities."

I can't for the life of me picture where this 2mm lowering is....?!?! Can anybody point this out? Are they talking about the RR hanger?
Yeah, machining 2mm off the RR block, and then running an 0/3 Rf block would lower the arm pivots, and basically give you approx 2* of kick up. I have a piece with 1mm removed, and run the 1.5 block for 3* of kick, or 0* for 1.5*. I only removed 1mm as the arm/chassis clearance is minimal. Notice in the pic it looks like there is some chassis massaging..
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:48 PM
  #10227  
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Hey guys just getting back into 2wd. This is my second go round with the 210. I had the O.E. short aluminum chassis when it first came out, now I have the +8 plastic chassis. What is the norm for lipos? Long or short and where is everyone placing them. Front or back. If you could show me some pics of your setup it would be greatly appreciated. Also I am going to run a 10.5 in it. Stock spur and 25-26 pinion? Does that sound right? Thanks for any info....
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:45 PM
  #10228  
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Originally Posted by Bman's 3XNT
Hey guys just getting back into 2wd. This is my second go round with the 210. I had the O.E. short aluminum chassis when it first came out, now I have the +8 plastic chassis. What is the norm for lipos? Long or short and where is everyone placing them. Front or back. If you could show me some pics of your setup it would be greatly appreciated. Also I am going to run a 10.5 in it. Stock spur and 25-26 pinion? Does that sound right? Thanks for any info....
Welcome back. ..
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:08 PM
  #10229  
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Originally Posted by flame56mx
Yeah, machining 2mm off the RR block, and then running an 0/3 Rf block would lower the arm pivots, and basically give you approx 2* of kick up. I have a piece with 1mm removed, and run the 1.5 block for 3* of kick, or 0* for 1.5*. I only removed 1mm as the arm/chassis clearance is minimal. Notice in the pic it looks like there is some chassis massaging..
What method did you use to remove the 2mm from the RR block?
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:09 PM
  #10230  
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Anybody running 6.5T motor? I'm looking for a ballpark FDR.
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