80LikesDurango DEX210 Thread
11-24-2012, 05:31 PM
#8881
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
No matter what with a turnbuckle, you're mashing plastic out of the way, not cutting it. When you pull the turnbuckle out, there's little to no plastic.
When you use a TAP, there's a lot of cut plastic that comes out.
The problem with these ballcups is that the type of plastic used, tries to shrink back to original size after a while, which causes a locked tight grip on the turnbuckle. The only solution is to cut away some of the plastic.
11-24-2012, 05:33 PM
#8882
It happens when u overtighten the wheel nuts. That is why a lot of people buy the alum wheel hexes, it eliminates the problem. Try to back off the nut a little and see if it loosens up, if not, it might be a bearing.
11-24-2012, 06:13 PM
#8883
Ball cup
Has anyone running MM tried aftermarket ball cups? It looks like the left rear won't take a straight ball cup so I was wondering if anyone has come up with an alternative to the stock ones?
11-24-2012, 06:24 PM
#8884
i have the aluminum hexes and still to tight. bearings are new. its really got me stumped. tried adding shimms here and there but that doesnt seem to help. could be a defect in the hub but ive read others having the same problem. appreciate the info though. thank you.
11-24-2012, 06:31 PM
#8885
Not sure if this has ever been posted by anyone else, but I know a lot of people have the same trouble. Take off rear wheel, pin falls out right? I just put a tiny dot of super glue on the pin before sliding it into the driveshaft, problem solved!! And if you need to slide the pin out it just takes a tap with a screwdriver to get it moving....
11-24-2012, 07:07 PM
#8886
Not sure if this has ever been posted by anyone else, but I know a lot of people have the same trouble. Take off rear wheel, pin falls out right? I just put a tiny dot of super glue on the pin before sliding it into the driveshaft, problem solved!! And if you need to slide the pin out it just takes a tap with a screwdriver to get it moving....
11-24-2012, 08:44 PM
#8888
And the Tresrey hexes are super dialed- if you use them I place an additional .3mm shim between the outer bearing and the hex to keep the side load away from the drive pin.
Last edited by Jonny5; 11-24-2012 at 09:40 PM.
11-24-2012, 09:08 PM
#8889
You need some 5mm ID shims to slide onto the axle. Remove the outer bearing, slide the shims on (I needed .4mm of shim in the aluminum hubs, .3mm in the Tresrey hubs), and reinstall the outer bearing. The axle is supposed to meet the race of the outer bearing and act as a crush tube, but its a few tenths of a mm short. You may have to try a few different shim combos in there, but once you find the right amount you'll be able to lock the wheels down with zero bind and no fear of losing a wheel.
And the Tresrey hubs are super dialed- if you use them I place an additional .3mm shim between the outer bearing and the hex to keep the side load away from the drive pin.
And the Tresrey hubs are super dialed- if you use them I place an additional .3mm shim between the outer bearing and the hex to keep the side load away from the drive pin.
11-24-2012, 11:07 PM
#8890
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on
With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.
Hope this helps
Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.
Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.
Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.
I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
11-25-2012, 05:21 AM
#8891
This is a good method.... But should you have to go through all this trouble? No.
Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.
Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.
Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.
I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.
Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.
Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.
I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
11-25-2012, 06:13 AM
#8892
Tech Adept
New Dex 210 coming, part #s needed
I Have a Dex 210 arriving, want to have a back up plan for stock ball cup. Sounds like it could be a problem, can I just use stock ball stud and another ball cup (please include part numbers) ?. Shim for outer rear bearing, 5mm ID, what is the OD, or part# on shim kit I need. Every car has some small issues you have to correct, Do not like DNF's.
11-25-2012, 06:14 AM
#8893
This is a good method.... But should you have to go through all this trouble? No.
Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.
Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.
Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.
I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.
Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.
Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.
I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
Sorry, I'm in the same boat. Now when I build a new Durango kit the first thing I do is research what size ballstuds/cups I need to order with it. I thought the new HD cups would be better but they're the same for me, come off way too easily no matter how you build them.
