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Old 11-24-2012, 06:31 PM   #8881
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Originally Posted by OU812_77 View Post
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles

1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on

With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.

Hope this helps
A MUCH MUCH better solution than just threading the turnbuckle in, is get a M3x0.5 bottoming TAP and cut the threads in.

No matter what with a turnbuckle, you're mashing plastic out of the way, not cutting it. When you pull the turnbuckle out, there's little to no plastic.

When you use a TAP, there's a lot of cut plastic that comes out.

The problem with these ballcups is that the type of plastic used, tries to shrink back to original size after a while, which causes a locked tight grip on the turnbuckle. The only solution is to cut away some of the plastic.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:33 PM   #8882
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sup guys, having a binding problem when i tighten the wheels nuts on the rear tires. the left is passable i guess but the right rear get extremely tight. i heard about a shimm trick. have any of you had this problem and if so how did you fix it? appreicate any info. thx
It happens when u overtighten the wheel nuts. That is why a lot of people buy the alum wheel hexes, it eliminates the problem. Try to back off the nut a little and see if it loosens up, if not, it might be a bearing.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:13 PM   #8883
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Default Ball cup

Has anyone running MM tried aftermarket ball cups? It looks like the left rear won't take a straight ball cup so I was wondering if anyone has come up with an alternative to the stock ones?
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:24 PM   #8884
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
It happens when u overtighten the wheel nuts. That is why a lot of people buy the alum wheel hexes, it eliminates the problem. Try to back off the nut a little and see if it loosens up, if not, it might be a bearing.
i have the aluminum hexes and still to tight. bearings are new. its really got me stumped. tried adding shimms here and there but that doesnt seem to help. could be a defect in the hub but ive read others having the same problem. appreciate the info though. thank you.
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Old 11-24-2012, 07:31 PM   #8885
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Not sure if this has ever been posted by anyone else, but I know a lot of people have the same trouble. Take off rear wheel, pin falls out right? I just put a tiny dot of super glue on the pin before sliding it into the driveshaft, problem solved!! And if you need to slide the pin out it just takes a tap with a screwdriver to get it moving....
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:07 PM   #8886
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Originally Posted by vw addict View Post
Not sure if this has ever been posted by anyone else, but I know a lot of people have the same trouble. Take off rear wheel, pin falls out right? I just put a tiny dot of super glue on the pin before sliding it into the driveshaft, problem solved!! And if you need to slide the pin out it just takes a tap with a screwdriver to get it moving....
When I ran the stock hexes I put a drop of locktite on the pin before I installed it. Less permanent than superglue. I now run the Tresrey clamping hexes and have never looked back
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:48 PM   #8887
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When I ran the stock hexes I put a drop of locktite on the pin before I installed it. Less permanent than superglue. I now run the Tresrey clamping hexes and have never looked back
+20000 on the hexes.. I love my Tresrey parts!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:44 PM   #8888
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i have the aluminum hexes and still to tight. bearings are new. its really got me stumped. tried adding shimms here and there but that doesnt seem to help. could be a defect in the hub but ive read others having the same problem. appreciate the info though. thank you.
You need some 5mm ID shims to slide onto the axle. Remove the outer bearing, slide the shims on (I needed .4mm of shim in the aluminum hubs, .3mm in the Tresrey hubs), and reinstall the outer bearing. The axle is supposed to meet the race of the outer bearing and act as a crush tube, but its a few tenths of a mm short. You may have to try a few different shim combos in there, but once you find the right amount you'll be able to lock the wheels down with zero bind and no fear of losing a wheel.

And the Tresrey hexes are super dialed- if you use them I place an additional .3mm shim between the outer bearing and the hex to keep the side load away from the drive pin.
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Last edited by Jonny5; 11-24-2012 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:08 PM   #8889
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Originally Posted by Jonny5 View Post
You need some 5mm ID shims to slide onto the axle. Remove the outer bearing, slide the shims on (I needed .4mm of shim in the aluminum hubs, .3mm in the Tresrey hubs), and reinstall the outer bearing. The axle is supposed to meet the race of the outer bearing and act as a crush tube, but its a few tenths of a mm short. You may have to try a few different shim combos in there, but once you find the right amount you'll be able to lock the wheels down with zero bind and no fear of losing a wheel.

And the Tresrey hubs are super dialed- if you use them I place an additional .3mm shim between the outer bearing and the hex to keep the side load away from the drive pin.
i have the tresrey hubs i'll give this a shot. thank you!
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:07 AM   #8890
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Originally Posted by OU812_77 View Post
With the stock ball studs and cups and turnbuckles

1st put one of the turnbuckles in a drill
2nd using a body reamer slightly ream the thread side of the ball cups
3rd on half of the cups thread in and out a few times leave it on the turnbuckle until it cools
4th flip the turnbuckle over and repeat step 3 on the rest of the cups
5th put a small amount of diff lube on the turnbuckle and thread the cups on

With this method you are cutting the threads and setting them and luberucating them this allows you to easily adjust them. The less you pop them off and Easter they move the better they preform. I use this method on mine and it works and I crash a lot.

Hope this helps
This is a good method.... But should you have to go through all this trouble? No.

Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.

Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.

Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.

I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:21 AM   #8891
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This is a good method.... But should you have to go through all this trouble? No.

Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.

Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.

Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.

I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
+1 I just went to RPM on 410 and 210 and be done with it.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:13 AM   #8892
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Default New Dex 210 coming, part #s needed

I Have a Dex 210 arriving, want to have a back up plan for stock ball cup. Sounds like it could be a problem, can I just use stock ball stud and another ball cup (please include part numbers) ?. Shim for outer rear bearing, 5mm ID, what is the OD, or part# on shim kit I need. Every car has some small issues you have to correct, Do not like DNF's.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:14 AM   #8893
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Originally Posted by zipperfoot View Post
This is a good method.... But should you have to go through all this trouble? No.

Im gonna say it. The ball cups suck. Plain and simple.

Drill em out, count to five, reverse thread them with a left handed screwdriver, wait for a full moon before adjusting them... Ridculous. I have never had to do this with any other kit.

Some have had problems, some have not. That alone tells me quality is inconsistant. Time for Durango to reformulate the plastic used for the cups.

I went to the jconcepts cups with tc6 studs. No issues since. No grease, no reaming, no taking off a ball stud instead of popping off a cup to make adjustments.
but, but, but, there's some people that never pop a turnbuckle, your just building them wrong

Sorry, I'm in the same boat. Now when I build a new Durango kit the first thing I do is research what size ballstuds/cups I need to order with it. I thought the new HD cups would be better but they're the same for me, come off way too easily no matter how you build them.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:31 AM   #8894
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When I bought this car, I was told by a guy that has been running one, to boil the ball cups so they don't pop off. It worked for me.
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:35 AM   #8895
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After 1 year of ballcup issues, I am shocked that there are still deniers. Get the lunsford kit or whatever and be done with it!
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