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Old 05-31-2012, 10:04 AM
  #6286  
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Installing gear diff today. I run on a blue groove track that ocassionally gets dusty. I'm planning on using Kyosho 1000 wt diff oil. I've seen people posting that hey just coat gears in black grease. Which way should I go.?

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Old 05-31-2012, 10:24 AM
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just coat the gears with black grease or use shockoil somewhat around 45 and 55 wt.

I have tried 1000cst and it felt like a spool
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:48 AM
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Anyone have a favorite bag they store/transport their buggy in?
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:45 AM
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Nope just a avro mills stackable container
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by murky123
just coat the gears with black grease or use shockoil somewhat around 45 and 55 wt.

I have tried 1000cst and it felt like a spool
Can you describe what you meant by felt like a spool? I have 1k in mine and I think it feels fine, but was curious if it would be better with grease in it so I am interested as to what you felt the difference was?
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:30 PM
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I see a few people changing to the gear diff ? Are you guys happy with it? I had one in my rb5 and it felt slow. Didn't have the direct feel that you can get from a ball diff...
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:42 PM
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I'm loving this ball diff. So much better than the Kyosho and AE. Been running it for a couple of month..... Still butter smooth
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Panic09
I see a few people changing to the gear diff ? Are you guys happy with it? I had one in my rb5 and it felt slow. Didn't have the direct feel that you can get from a ball diff...
I really like my gear diff. I use black grease, had tried other fluids in it but it seemed to push when exiting corners on throttle.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:48 PM
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B fast ball diff for me. Never again on the gear diff.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Garnold
Anyone have a favorite bag they store/transport their buggy in?
I use me Atomik-RC hauler. It works great. The only hauler I've seen that has draws you bolt together.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:12 PM
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Ever hear the slogan "There's no wrong way to eat a Reece's"? That's the way I feel about the gear diff/ball diff question. I've run both on about every current vehicle on the market. One is better in some section and the other is better on other sections. I like the "connected" feel of a ball diff and the ease of maintenance of a gear diff. I'm a set it and forget it kinda guy, that's why I run the B-fast stuff. I always suggest you try both and see what YOU like the best. I've taken the diff out of the 210 a bunch of times....it's easier to adjust the screw than it is to change oil/grease.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:50 PM
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I put the gear diff in and omg....smooth smooth smooth. Just put some black grease in and away we went. A relation was awesome. No push. Of course with battery pushed all the way up. Stock front springs. Losi white in rear. 30 /25 shock oil. 23 mm ride height. Set slipper. Easy peasy. No maint for awhile.

Thing jumps like a dream. On rough long straight it just kept pulling and stayed planted. Traction for days.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:06 PM
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Anyone messed with the droop settings? I have an extra set of shocks I setup tonight to have around 4mm limiters for fronts and 3 mm for rears. I got sick of the drive shaft bind/noise on full droop on rears. So went ahead and did all 4 shocks with internal limiters.
Can never get the screw droop consistent since I end up eyeballing it . Will do some testing this race weekend. I think I will end up with zero droop once again since my track's pretty rough but at least the cars super quiet on the bench now with rear droop.

Have an itch again to do something different . First things gonna be the annoying brace which connects top of gearbox to the lower chassis brace. That's going to be replaced with 2 titanium turnbuckles (sv2 style). Should clean up airflow/wiring around ESC (which btw is in my battery tray).

Next making a CF right angle channel to mount the esc as far back as possible (maybe even sideways) and the modified cf battery strap of course since the rear brace won't be there to press the stock strap down.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor
Anyone messed with the droop settings? I have an extra set of shocks I setup tonight to have around 4mm limiters for fronts and 3 mm for rears. I got sick of the drive shaft bind/noise on full droop on rears. So went ahead and did all 4 shocks with internal limiters.
Can never get the screw droop consistent since I end up eyeballing it . Will do some testing this race weekend. I think I will end up with zero droop once again since my track's pretty rough but at least the cars super quiet on the bench now with rear droop.

Have an itch again to do something different . First things gonna be the annoying brace which connects top of gearbox to the lower chassis brace. That's going to be replaced with 2 titanium turnbuckles (sv2 style). Should clean up airflow/wiring around ESC (which btw is in my battery tray).

Next making a CF right angle channel to mount the esc as far back as possible (maybe even sideways) and the modified cf battery strap of course since the rear brace won't be there to press the stock strap down.
Plz post pics of it that sounds like somthing i would like to try
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock
Can you describe what you meant by felt like a spool? I have 1k in mine and I think it feels fine, but was curious if it would be better with grease in it so I am interested as to what you felt the difference was?
feeling like a spool, I ment : to heavy, to tight.. resulting that the back of the car like to step out when going on throttle.

this is on low traction surface

I now run 50wt losi shock oil in mine, and the gear diff just keep getting better and better every run. smoother and smoother.

I do think that a gear diff is not for dirt out door tracks, but more for high traction carpet indoor tracks.
On dirt you should always run a ball diff for the best feeling.
But Im lazy and I do not feel like setting and tunning a ball diff between heats, that is why I run a gear diff
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