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Old 01-24-2012, 08:12 AM
  #3796  
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I want to get me a few different springs for my 210.

but the full size spring sets are just to expensive , mostly because I will just use 1 or 2 different spring rates.
Im the only durango driver at our track, so I cant ask someone else.

my track is outdoors clay, sometimes wet conditions somtimes dry and dusty

I will run my dex 99% of the time in RM3 modus with heavy fullsize stickpacks

race weight is between 1650 grams and 1710 grams

what spring rates are a good option for me ?
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:28 AM
  #3797  
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For those of you that pre-ordered the RCshox GBX (gear box fix) i just finished all 60 of them and they will go out late today early tomorrow! thanx for the order and enjoy! On a side note we had a big series race this past saturday that was 80% 1/8 scale. I practiced on the track through about 5 4800mah packs tangling with the eighth and SC trucks, flipping ,tumbling and anything inbetween with no failures and a few times i just knew it would break but it didnt! So drive with confidence, it aint gonna break!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:25 AM
  #3798  
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Been following the thread for a bit and I dont remember seeing this info posted. To run RB5 R wheels and have the correct offset you need the 12mmhexes and drive pins for the losi XXX-SCT.1 shim between the hex and the bearing,just barely ream out the axle hole in the RB5 wheel to fit over the shaft and bolt it in place.Good to know if you have a bunch of mounted rubber for an RB5
Attached Thumbnails Durango DEX210 Thread-004.jpg   Durango DEX210 Thread-002.jpg  

Last edited by 2wdMod; 01-24-2012 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:58 AM
  #3799  
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I have my 210 posted in the for sale section here

I love this buggy and it is dialed, but I bought a 22T and want to be able to carry spares that will work for the truck and a 22 (that I have as a trade option for the 210).

Let me know if there is any interest - If you buy it for cash, mention you saw it in this thread and I will cover the priority shipping.
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:20 AM
  #3800  
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Finally got all my ballcups replaced with RPM ballcups, and all my ballstuds replaced with lunsford titaniums... dialed! ... just for you, hopsing
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Finally got all my ballcups replaced with RPM ballcups, and all my ballstuds replaced with lunsford titaniums... dialed! ... just for you, hopsing
LMFAO!!
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:15 PM
  #3802  
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Originally Posted by littlejohn
Yes, you are indeed correct.. But because I'm human, I have difficulty nailing this technique time and time again, especially under pressure.
What I have found helps is, if you add a reasonable amount of drag brake, you can basically go back the same style you were doing with RM3.
I run a decent amount of drag brake. Like 30% or something. I don't like using my brakes at all, and drag brake helps the car to turn a little better too.
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Old 01-24-2012, 12:35 PM
  #3803  
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Originally Posted by JOJOHAMBONE
yah my rear shocks are that way too? i dont know why mine also seem like they have a little friction at times checked the pistion and it does not rub so Im not sure
take the shock shaft out and put it in thru the bottom and see if its your orings. mine had alot of res also even with new greased orings and oil on the shaft. we had the same issue with the losi 22 so i used 1 dur. oring and 1 black low res. losi oring = WAY MORE GOODER! put the stock durango oring in first, if you go with 2 losi black orings the shock will have some leakage and you'll need to keep an eye on them.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:41 PM
  #3804  
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Originally Posted by allan42r
take the shock shaft out and put it in thru the bottom and see if its your orings. mine had alot of res also even with new greased orings and oil on the shaft. we had the same issue with the losi 22 so i used 1 dur. oring and 1 black low res. losi oring = WAY MORE GOODER! put the stock durango oring in first, if you go with 2 losi black orings the shock will have some leakage and you'll need to keep an eye on them.
Along the same line of thinking- I sand just a little bit off of the plastic spacer between the orings before initial assembly. This keeps the orings from getting compressed when the bottom cap is tightened down and eliminates some friction in there. The orings are not meant to be compressed to seal nicely, so if they are squeezed at all they tighten up on the shafts. Something a fellow racer showed me on the ae shocks and I now do it on every set of new shocks I build.
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Old 01-24-2012, 02:44 PM
  #3805  
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Originally Posted by 2wdMod
Been following the thread for a bit and I dont remember seeing this info posted. To run RB5 R wheels and have the correct offset you need the 12mmhexes and drive pins for the losi XXX-SCT.1 shim between the hex and the bearing,just barely ream out the axle hole in the RB5 wheel to fit over the shaft and bolt it in place.Good to know if you have a bunch of mounted rubber for an RB5
I use the JConcepts for the B4.1. Works great.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:51 PM
  #3806  
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how does the dex210 compare to a kyosho rb5 sp2? Thinking about switching. I don't like the way the rb5 pushes on corner exit.
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:25 PM
  #3807  
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Originally Posted by shark2288
how does the dex210 compare to a kyosho rb5 sp2? Thinking about switching. I don't like the way the rb5 pushes on corner exit.
I have never had a car with more on power steering. It almost feels like you could screw it into the ground on corner exit. I am sure others will say the same thing.

A shameless plug for my 210 that is for sale too!)
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Old 01-24-2012, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sparkwraps
I have never had a car with more on power steering. It almost feels like you could screw it into the ground on corner exit. I am sure others will say the same thing.

A shameless plug for my 210 that is for sale too!)
Why you selling?
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:01 PM
  #3809  
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Originally Posted by Autocratic
Why you selling?
+1
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:11 PM
  #3810  
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Originally Posted by Jonny5
Along the same line of thinking- I sand just a little bit off of the plastic spacer between the orings before initial assembly. This keeps the orings from getting compressed when the bottom cap is tightened down and eliminates some friction in there. The orings are not meant to be compressed to seal nicely, so if they are squeezed at all they tighten up on the shafts. Something a fellow racer showed me on the ae shocks and I now do it on every set of new shocks I build.
Originally Posted by allan42r
take the shock shaft out and put it in thru the bottom and see if its your orings. mine had alot of res also even with new greased orings and oil on the shaft. we had the same issue with the losi 22 so i used 1 dur. oring and 1 black low res. losi oring = WAY MORE GOODER! put the stock durango oring in first, if you go with 2 losi black orings the shock will have some leakage and you'll need to keep an eye on them.
thanks guys I will try those things.
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