Jmuck69

iTrader: (14)

Mine came with blank, 1.2 six hole and 1.3 six hole.

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

Ah, ok. Doesn't surprise me though considering all the stories of missing parts. I have enough pistons to make a few different complete sets of shocks.

iTz IAN

iTrader: (21)

+1000000000

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

I can get the shock stand offs, Ill see what my source has in stock... but don't you need a larger hole or plastic balls in the shock cap hole?

I have extras from my 410 Ill check but im sure they didn't fit without modding

autocadsteve197:
Im a beginner and thought this build was great, and reading what you wrote it doesn't sound like you read this thread at all, maybe jumped in near the end.
Manual use the online one
I also got an extra bag or two with the parts that were missing
Grease I got both the green and white pot
C Clip I just filed down a pair of long nose pliers it works a treat
Im not really happy with having to change rims but I do prefer the hexes to pins maybe no need for 14mm hexes but they have to make money as well

Take a deep breath, Read the thread then drive it, its a great car

autocadsteve197

iTrader: (42)

Yeah, I did read the first 20 or so pages back when the car wasn't out everywhere yet, but to my surprise today its up to page 90 or so, so yeah I didn't read the thread, just posted my thoughts..

Well, I've nearly finished the build. Just gotta do the shocks. Now, about that.. The online manual AND the boxed version are both wrong when it comes to the part numbers they are listing for building the shocks.. Now, yeah, I've built plenty of cars, and yeah I can see what parts I really need.. But that's not the point. It's wrong plain and simple.. I'm a bit disappointed to be honest.. It doesn't give me faith that other stages of the build are right now either.. What if we are supposed to use 2 shims instead the stated 3 for example? I haven't built a car this wrong in a long time.. It seems TD's morals lie in the 1/8th scale arena and the 1/10th is just to compete in the market.. Why not put the same effort in to the 1/10th also? Also whats with the little shock parts? I have tiny pistons and tiny preload screw downs. If TD want to "make money" they should stop making parts and shipping them out for a TRF416 instead of putting them in the dex210 box . Anyway, I'll race it tomorrow in the RM 3 gear style and see how it goes..

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

No need to be obtuse. He's asking/stating if/that you need to run an undertray with the carbon chassis and that's it's a little too much bling for him. Pretty easy to figure out actually

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

The small pistons are for the 410 small bore shocks they are just on the parts tree, and the screw is for the bleeder cap, you'll love that, a lot easier to build with bleeders.

I like what TD are doing, they have amended the manual and give nice updates with vids to help with building and running.

Bugle

iTrader: (1)

Site wasn't down, your link was wrong Fixed it

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Finally see the grass is greener...

Sup Bud. I've had good success using this to start with. Only change I've made was adding 3/4 oz. inside front bulkehead. Losi 35 front/30 rear, 1.3 x 4 pistons all around.
Don't forget the JConcepts Gold Barcodes's. V2's in rear....yeah shameless plug. Use AKA red inserts for rear.
Don't really need spring kit unless you plan on getting the DEX410 V3 too! lol

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango...es20111016.pdf

Carlos69

iTrader: (4)

ha, I had forgotten you had changed address (from beta) sorted now !

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

What up Dave.... I'm giving the 210 a shakedown. I really like the way the kit is built. I have to finish the shocks today, paint tomorrow, get some track time possibly Sunday. Thanks for the setup. You coming to Motorama?

Mopar, its on a hook for now.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Maybe you got some strange version of the kit or the manual, or both.. because mine was nothing like that at all. There were a couple of times where the manual stated the wrong length of screw for the steering pivot I think.. but it was pretty obvious that the stated length wouldn't of worked, and the two screws left over were better. Nowhere in this build did I see ANYTHING as bad as you are leading on. I will admit I had a missing screw, but I found it in the "extra bag of screws" they included in all their kits just in case there is a missing screw.

The only short comings in the build I found, was a lack of description on putting together the diff. They were not specific on the thrust washers, or the circlip.... but that shouldn't of gotten you as it has been discussed ad nauseam, here in this thread.

Perhaps you are new to building kits, I don't know...but if so, it would make sense as this is NOT an easy build for a new kit builder. Anybody with a few kits under their belt should have zero issues, as long as you come here for information on the diff

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I wasn't being obtuse ( )... What he said literally doesn't make sense. And considering he was stating that an undertray is "too much bling"... I couldn't even infer what he might actually be talking about. All I said is that they should include an undertray for a carbon chassis... that's it.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

The only thing wrong in the instruction manual I found was in regaurds to the two plastic washers that sit on top of the front rear toe block. Other than that, piece of cake. This is only my 3rd kit I have put together, so I would hardly call myself experienced, as far as building different brand kits goes.
I was really impressed with the build... no slop in the front end, none!

onekiwi

iTrader: (4)

Gear diff is coming

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91064