SquireSCA

Got tired of getting my butt kicked on the race track with an HPI E-Firestorm Flux. I was running 3S Lipo and the thing just had too much power, could not control it on dirt. Awesome truck for bashing, but a poor racer with 3S.

So I got a Kyosho Inferno VE, which is a 1/8 buggy with a 2050kV brushless motor. 4WD, aluminum big-bore shocks, RTR and can handle up to 4S Lipo.

I plan to practice with the 3S packs(5000mAh) and then pick up 3 or 4 5000mAh 4S packs for racing.

I also have an Airtronics 2.4Ghz DSM system. I swapped out the receiver from the stock one, and it seems to work fine, but I want to calibrate the throttle. I set the end points for the steering and it has dual-rate settings and ABS and things like that... But I want to calibrate the throttle to make sure it is set properly.

There are no instructions on how to do this in the manual or on their website, and so far a Google search is leaving me empty-handed. With the Castle systems you hold the throttle on full and then switch the ESC on... Traxxas Velineon systems have a simple setting outlined in their manual.

This one, nothing.

Anyone able to help me out? I am not sure what the stock ECU is in this thing.

Thanks!

SquireSCA

This buggy has a Team Orion Vortex 8 ESC and BL motor combo, if that helps.

I can't even find this ESC on Orion's website.

rinferno

I did have the Inferno 7.5 (nitro) the Ve is based on that chassis. Proven chassis although it is at least 5-6 years old. Most Kyosho buggy parts up to MP777 parts will work. Tough car, many parts available for the car. Kyosho is know for their durability, quality product, not the top of the line for Kyosho, but option parts are available to make it really trick.

rinferno

Get the Castle Link to program the speed control, its easier. Its very quick to setup thean going through the manual programming with the tones and the led lights for programming. The basic programming is in the manual or from their website.

rinferno

sorry I thought u had a Mamba Monster.

Jeff Taylor

Kyosho Customer Service: (800) 716-4518

SquireSCA

Nah, stock Orion Vortex 8 motor and ESC combo. Motor is a 2050kV.

Has decent punch and speed on 3S Lipo, but it is not the explosive power that I had on the E-Firestorm when running 3S. The Firestorm was pushing 50mph and was a wheelie monster. It also accelerated faster. But, it was probably not even half the weight, and it had a 4600kV motor.

I ordered a couple 4S 5000mAh Lipo packs from Hobby King for $113 shipped, should be here next week. My buddy has several and loves them, and when they die, they are only $40 each, so no biggie.

JSR

iTrader: (18)

I checked out the Inferno VE this past Thursday at my LHS...it's pretty nice. Your Firestorm may have been faster, but keep in mind it was a 2WD 1/10 ST...as you said, it was hard to control. Lots of power on 2WD means virtually no control. The Inferno VE is 4WD and MUCH bigger, but it is guaranteed to handle better. On 4s, it should be a very fun ride (2050kV on 3s is a too low to get the full potential of the motor...on 4s, it's perfect).
As for the ESC, the Orion ESCs are made by Hobbywing, so hopefully the programming is the same. I should have paid more attention when I was looking at the one at the LHS. Is there a small "program" button on the ESC (usually red color)? If there is, use that to set your endpoints. The standard HW setup is as follows:

- turn on TX
- hold down program button and turn on RX
- LED on ESC will flash, as SOON as it flashes, LET GO OF THE BUTTON
- with the throttle at neutral, press the button, it should beep once and LED will light once
- with throttle at max forward, press the button, it should beep twice and LED lights twice
- with throttle at max reverse, press the button, it should beep 3 times and LED lights 3 times
- let it sit for about 3-5 seconds and it will beep the number of cells in your pack (assuming you set it...or it may be set to auto-detect)

If there's no red button, then your best shot is to call Kyosho.
Good luck and let us know how that baby performs!

SquireSCA

Unfortunately there is no program button.

I am hoping that 4S Lipo gives me the power and speed that I need to be competitive. If not, will this ESC handle a Castle 2650kV motor, if I limit it to 4S?

I am trying to find some specs on what this thing can handle.

SquireSCA

Ok, I went and bashed in the back yard with this thing with the 3S Lipo packs. Running the thing hard, lots of wide open throttle runs across the yard and full power acceleration out of turns and all that, pretty much running it in grass the way I would in a race, I was getting 20-21 minutes of run time.

I am thinking that when the 4S packs get here this week, I should get more, maybe around 25 minutes, because I won't have the hammer the throttle as much to get the same speed. Is this a correct assumption?

That if I am getting a solid 20 min on a 5000mAh 3S pack, driving it like an idiot, that I should get a bit longer with the 4S packs, driving it with a little restraint?

I understand that I could drive with restraint now, but to do so would not give me enough speed and power against nitro buggies that I will be running against. Open electric, yeah, because I would be against stock Slash's and things like that...

So is my "logic" sound? That I should, if driven properly, be able to make it through a 20 minute timed race with 4S 5000mAh packs, but have a nice 4S LiPo punch to keep up with the nitro buggies on the straights?

Also, what gearing should I consider as an "all around" good compromise?

I am not going to get into racing to the extent that I tune for every track and worry about every 1/10 of a second. I just want to go out and practice and then run a few races and have some fun. I don't care if I ever win...

JSR

iTrader: (18)

You'll run longer IF you adjust for the same top speed. If you just slap the 4s in, you might or might not get more runtime. 2 things you can do:

1. Change gearing (lower pinion) to get the same top speed as you were on 3s, and you'll have longer runtime (because you'll be pulling less current)

or

2. Keep the gearing the same, but turn the EPA on your TX down so that you get the same top speed as you did on 3s, and you'll run longer (again, pulling less current)

SquireSCA

Well here is an update. In the backyard bashing with 4S and stock gearing, I was getting a solid 30 minutes of run time, and that was with a lot of full throttle runs and hard acceleration, in grass.

So I took it to the track in Loganville on Saturday and was going to race it. The speed was perfect. I could hang with the nitro buggies and truggies on the long straights. One or two were a tiny bit faster, but I was a tiny bit faster than a lot of them.

What I had on them was acceleration. Coming out of the hole on a tight turn, I would walk away from most of them, so that even if they were a tiny bit faster top end, they would just catch up by the end of the back straight.

Jumping, this thing is great. Flies very nicely.

The party ended before my first practice session was over. Being that I am new to this car, my driving skills are not where they should be, and so launching the car 25 feet through the air, and about 7 feet vertical, made for some bad landings that resulted in the front hinge pin mount breaking, a very bent hinge pin, and one of the rear wheels shattered.

But let me tell you, the landings were REALLY bad. LOL

So I picked up a set of white disc wheels from the LHS. They are made by Losi nad have some nice tires mounted on them and they were half off, so a set of 4 cost me $32.

And I ordered a complete set of suspension mounts, hinge pins, A arms, C clips, etc... Should be here in a couple days and I will be ready to race on Dec 5.

I have to say, that this is a really nice car. It was very competitive, and will get even better as my skill gets up to par. But as far as power, speed and handling, this thing was great in stock form. I have not done anything to it yet except to add a little preload to account for the heavy 4S 5000mAh battery.

For $413 shipped, I think I got one of the best bangs for the buck out there.

I wonder, does RPM make any parts that will fit this thing? Maybe parts for the nitro buggy that this thing is based on?

JSR

iTrader: (18)

I'd keep using the plastic parts as they're cheaper to replace and stiffer aluminum ones will transfer the weak point to a pricier part.

Let us know what runtimes you get once you get a full run in at the track.

midoco

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the update.

I will hopefully be getting mine in a few days. Can't wait. I'll be running on a small technical track and I'm hoping I can get away with 3 cells. Maybe I'll try to get some video.

Mike

midoco

iTrader: (1)

forgot to ask. Does anyone know a good place to get a clear body for the VE?
...or parts for it in general?