SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Wow you guys are ruthless...

losifiend

iTrader: (73)

The point about paying an un necessary markup continues to elude you...It's not worth it to continue arguing with you.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

"Bash" THIS! lol.

Uh, maybe I give you hard time because you frequently make no sense. For the longest time you were bashing Traxxas just because it was Traxxas. You were constantly ragging on the Slash 2wd, while claiming to own one. Then you started on the Slash 4x4 with your obsession with "center of gravity". Then, you go and buy one. Weird. I call it like I see it.

If I ragged on a vehicle and company that much I certainly wouldn't be buying their products.

Crawler

iTrader: (6)

I guess your recollection and my recollection are different. There was no "e-thuggery" on my behalf. Perhaps you took my differing opinion as such, but it was not intended.

Good luck w/ your Hyper 10SC, I think you'll like it.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Oh, no, it's the return of the salad fork.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

+ YouTube Video

roadrashracing2

I got a pe today is there any specail tips/tricks out there?

phatmonk

Here is my Slash.Too much snow here to realy try it out.I did do some test runs and its insane.I tried a 4s with the Neu 1515/1.5D/F and its ready to shredd the drivetrain.Its a overkill yes and a shipload of fun to drive.The bodies are paper thin compared to my SC8E whatsup with that?I plan on putting a Neu CC 2200 and trying 5s out.

Crawler

iTrader: (6)

So because I own something, that means I am completly happy w/ my purchase I'm not allowed to point out things I dislike about it?

I owned a Slash for quite a while before the SC10 was available. I wasn't impressed w/ the Slash at all and switched to the SC10. Just as others have switched to the Blitz, or Strike, etc...

The CG is HIGHER on the 4WD Slash, simple physics still apply to the 4WD Slash unless Traxxas has somehow figured out a way to alter them.

According to you, I have to love exery aspect of a vehicle to purchase one? I have often expressed my dislike w/ certain aspects of the SC10, yet it remains my favorite 2WD SC truck, but I guess I'll have to sell it now.

Again, because I don't like certain aspects of a design and voice my opinion about them, doesn't mean I wouldn't own one.

Nitro Herb

iTrader: (10)

I had the same thing happen , the bearing seized up and took out the center diff and spur gear out with less than 30 minutes of run time on a brand new truck. The only thing traxxas has is the bearing. lol The aggravating part is when i called traxxas the guy acted like it was the first time he had heard of this problem. I race only and never bash , my racing buddy bought his truck the same time as me and if he hadnt checked the bearing that day after mine bit the dust the same thing would have happened to him.

Im an Associated guy and the RC8 had issues when it came out. The fuel tank being one of them . Associated was great about sending tanks out and was great about keeping them in stock even shortly after the car was released.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

First thing to do is threadlock all the screws that are metal to metal. They will back out after a while. I learned this the hard way. Keep an eye on the axles. They are the truck's weak point, right now, and they have been known to bend. Make sure you check the bearings that house the Center Diff. If it seizes up, it could ruin your diff. I am going to replace mine with better quality bearings. Always watch the temps on your VXL motor/esc. This thing will get torched if you use the wrong gearing.

djway3474

What size is the bearing that is in question and what type would be a good upgrade?

Gearhead racer

Greatsteaks

Can some one advise me on how to setup the bigbore shocks for a short coarse indoor track. Thanks

BashemSmashem

iTrader: (42)

via RCShortcourse.com from sgrid - thanks mp3ranger

From Steve Slayden on sgrid forum

The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the
box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt
and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the
chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them
will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of
streets and parking lots, this makes sense.

However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes
you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an
awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of
steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments.
Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on
the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup
afterward.


Front end:
- outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
- shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
- camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
- diff: 10K to 15K

Rear end:
- sway bar: black
- diff: 5K to 7K

- install center diff (50K to 100K)

----------------


Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and
provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.

I'll post my complete setup below.

Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some
of it. This truck is SICK when setup


SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END

- Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump
steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
- Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel
independently with the wheel pointing straight forward.
- Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise
to maintain a levelk of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes
the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable
throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE
steering.
- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
- Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out
to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
- Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the
same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer
than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a
linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
- Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
- Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will
also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the
inner hinge pin.
- Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
- Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks
with bite.
- Bumpsteer: Flat: up

Front end note: If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole
for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the
aluminum accessory knuckles.

The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear)
adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn
in smooth and less aggressive.

SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END

- Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small
tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
- Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
- Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-
Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite
tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
- Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough
tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
- Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
- Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end
out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves
steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on
those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
- Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a
firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them
to work within a happy range.
- Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
- Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will
also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers
and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of
the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on
high speed smooth tracks.
- Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on
dusty loose tracks.
- Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks

SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST

Wheels: Pro-Line SC One Piece (Slash 2wd rear offset) all the way
around
Inserts: Pro-Line SC Blue
Tires: Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have been
good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties
favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for
chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really
hite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and
also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on
abrasive cleam surfaces.

Motor: TRX Velineon (with TRX heatsink #1522)
Battery: Max Amps 2S 8000
Battery Location: rear
ESC: TRX Velineon VXL-3s (with cooling fan)

Gearing: Pinion: 14t/ Spur: 54t, use 13t pinion on tight tracks and
15t on larger tracks. Larger pinions also add improves control of the
truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear
or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer
acceleration and better turn in.

TX: Spektrum DX3R
RX: Spektrum SR 3100
Servo: Ace 1015
Body: Pro-Line SC Hardcore

Weight: My scale is broke, so with the battery, servo, heatsink, fan,
wheels/ tires and such added into the mix, then that is what is
weighs... LOL!!!

I'll get it on a scale soon. I'm also going to be playing with weight
placement and bias in the coming weeks. Keep in mind that lighter
weight (smaller capacity) packs and/ or changes to the motor system
and things like that will affect ride height and spring rate needs.