rc 10gt to electric
#1
rc 10gt to electric
Has anyone converted their rc10gt to electric and if so what did you use and how did it work? I want to convert mine and was looking for a few pointers and maybe some price ideas. Any input would help. Thanks, Jamie.
#2
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Honestly why go throught the hassle?? Just a question. IMO you'ld be money ahead to sell it and pick up a nice used T4.
#3
Good point, but my insperation comes from the optima when Kyosho moved the motor to mid position. Might be a big mistake but I "think" I would like to try it. I have been away from rc's for a long time and am just now getting back into them. I have two boys that think they are the greatest thing.
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I am thinking of the same thing. I have a GT2 and plan of removing the brake assembly, moving the spur in towards the motor a bit more and building a custom "L" bracket that mounts up to the stock motor mount holes and holds the motor in. Totally redesigning the upper deck and move the steering servo up to above the top deck, then a 2S Lipo Under it where the servo and fuel tank was
That should center the weight. Also as a tuning option running the receiver pack in it's stock location to have some more weight back their. and removing the 1.5 oz I have under the front shock tower
That should center the weight. Also as a tuning option running the receiver pack in it's stock location to have some more weight back their. and removing the 1.5 oz I have under the front shock tower
#5
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
a few of us have. I am thinking of getting a xfactory 4 gear transmission case for mine this year
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
#6
Tech Addict
I wonder if you could buy a brand new GT2 and convert it brushless.
I have most of those parts in that thread to convert one over.
Drill a couple holes to mount the parts in and vola!
I have most of those parts in that thread to convert one over.
Drill a couple holes to mount the parts in and vola!
#7
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
I see no reason why not but If you are looking at new the Xfactory X-60 is a nice option My GT was very competitive last year and I would expect a GT2 to be even better. I strongly reccomend the 4 gear tranny though with the 3 gear I have the tourqe of the motor tended to unload the rear . I took all the anti-sqaut out and it helped but the 4 gear should solve it altogether. Be ready for some steering mine turned like a 1\12 scale best way to describe it
#8
Well I feel like a an idiot now. I started a mount using a 2 x 4 floor joist hanger cutting it down and adding new holes just setting beside my transmission and also was thinking of some how still using the brake system. What would be yall's thaught's on that. This is all for fun, I do not race, not yet anyway. And also wondered how a belt drive would do. What yall think?
#10
I think it's a great idea to convert a GT2 to electric.
I made a E-Jato it was cheap , easy and drives well.
I put the ESC in the back receiver spot.
I got rid of the brake , electric brake works much better.
My friend converted his XXX-NT and races it,it does great.
I made a E-Jato it was cheap , easy and drives well.
I put the ESC in the back receiver spot.
I got rid of the brake , electric brake works much better.
My friend converted his XXX-NT and races it,it does great.
#11
I have the same talk going on over on rcuniverse and between the two I have been getting some good ideas. And I would agree with not using the brake but thaught I would get an opinion or two.
#12
Tech Apprentice
I've got a build log started here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=41239
I encourage anyone that either has converted their RC10GT to electric or those considering the change to join in the discussion. I'll be talking about all the problems, compromises, and results - including lots of pictures so you can actually see what's going on. I'll also be asking for suggestions from time to time... so if you've already done this conversion, you're in working out any nasty problems would be greatly appreciated!
Hope to see you there. When the build is complete, I'll post a picture back over here on R/C Tech.
Regards ~ Jason
I encourage anyone that either has converted their RC10GT to electric or those considering the change to join in the discussion. I'll be talking about all the problems, compromises, and results - including lots of pictures so you can actually see what's going on. I'll also be asking for suggestions from time to time... so if you've already done this conversion, you're in working out any nasty problems would be greatly appreciated!
Hope to see you there. When the build is complete, I'll post a picture back over here on R/C Tech.
Regards ~ Jason
#13
i have two, at first it was just a slap together on the cheap spare parts project, as gt's were selling for near nothing a few years ago, i was buying rollers for spare parts for my original gt and rc10t2's... than outta no where, electric stadium truck made a racing comeback, and truck got kinda popular, so i revised my beater conversion to spare my t2 runner
its something to tinker with if you already have hoarded beat up gt stuff, you are going to have a hard time finding cvd's and diff outdrives as there not being produced, much like the vintage rc10/t guys had before the repro kits came around... the gt uses sae hardware and bearings, not impossible but its becoming harder to find simple stuff like rims, the hot setup is using gt cvd bones, with the original b4/t4 cvd axle thats 3/16, its a lil longer which allows you to run hex rims
theres really not much to the truck, it handles "ok" in brushless form, for a 24 year old design, you need to make or buy a motor mount that ties the trans to the motor... the chassis flexes and spreads gear mesh, did this in the nitro setup too.. theres a million ways about it, but realistically its not worth the trouble if your gonna run/race it consistently, its more fun for the nostalgia of it, for me anyways...
the gt2 is a better canidate, as it shares t4 parts, the front end is weak, if you race high bite, the rpm stuff flexes a lot but people run em and throw laps down next to all the latest greatest...
its something to tinker with if you already have hoarded beat up gt stuff, you are going to have a hard time finding cvd's and diff outdrives as there not being produced, much like the vintage rc10/t guys had before the repro kits came around... the gt uses sae hardware and bearings, not impossible but its becoming harder to find simple stuff like rims, the hot setup is using gt cvd bones, with the original b4/t4 cvd axle thats 3/16, its a lil longer which allows you to run hex rims
theres really not much to the truck, it handles "ok" in brushless form, for a 24 year old design, you need to make or buy a motor mount that ties the trans to the motor... the chassis flexes and spreads gear mesh, did this in the nitro setup too.. theres a million ways about it, but realistically its not worth the trouble if your gonna run/race it consistently, its more fun for the nostalgia of it, for me anyways...
the gt2 is a better canidate, as it shares t4 parts, the front end is weak, if you race high bite, the rpm stuff flexes a lot but people run em and throw laps down next to all the latest greatest...
#14
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (2)
Here's mine. Mount hand made from aluminum angle and 3D printed battery holder for shorty lipos. All the factory holes are used so no drilling. Wrapping the mount around the tranny really helps stiffen the rear and lessen flex.
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr
RC10GT Brushless Conversion by smerrick, on Flickr