D4 vs B44
09-19-2009, 07:44 PM
#16
Just get some RPM ballcups for your B44 and be done with it...
I bought a set of RPM ballcups for the color scheme and aesthetics and nothing else. I have no issues with AE ballcups. I think they are pretty beefy compared to other manufacturer's kitted ballcups...
It is a HUGE leap from what AE used to pack. These skinny white nylon ones that would probably strip out from the stresses that modern RCs sees with our crazy batteries and powerplants...
I bought a set of RPM ballcups for the color scheme and aesthetics and nothing else. I have no issues with AE ballcups. I think they are pretty beefy compared to other manufacturer's kitted ballcups...
It is a HUGE leap from what AE used to pack. These skinny white nylon ones that would probably strip out from the stresses that modern RCs sees with our crazy batteries and powerplants...
09-19-2009, 08:03 PM
#17
Just get some RPM ballcups for your B44 and be done with it...
I bought a set of RPM ballcups for the color scheme and aesthetics and nothing else. I have no issues with AE ballcups. I think they are pretty beefy compared to other manufacturer's kitted ballcups...
It is a HUGE leap from what AE used to pack. These skinny white nylon ones that would probably strip out from the stresses that modern RCs sees with our crazy batteries and powerplants...
I bought a set of RPM ballcups for the color scheme and aesthetics and nothing else. I have no issues with AE ballcups. I think they are pretty beefy compared to other manufacturer's kitted ballcups...
It is a HUGE leap from what AE used to pack. These skinny white nylon ones that would probably strip out from the stresses that modern RCs sees with our crazy batteries and powerplants...
09-19-2009, 08:26 PM
#18
I just came in from tuning a virgin B44. Every thing on it is smooth and tight. But the ball cups could be improved on. Every AE product I have owned has been like this. Very sloppy. Its my first B44, years ago I ran the XX4 quite a big difference. It would be a shame to have to put Losi cups on it.
i had ballcup issuses too, i switched the ballcups to the rpm ones, and then i had ballstud issues, so i switched them to titanium ballstuds. major improvement.
09-19-2009, 10:28 PM
#22
as far as you deciding which to keep it would totally be a personal preference personally i run the b44 and love it, so ive broken a few front a arms and 1 shock shaft thats only because of the stupid things ive done with it, i run a mamba 7700 init with lipo all day long and as long as im driving smart and respectable i dont break and as far as diffs go ive never once had any problems with mine in this whole time ive owned it, but it also has to do with where you can get parts where im at they stock associated and kyosho parts nothing at all for the d4 so you would have to order it and wait for it to come in. but if you can get parts for the d4 local then thats a plus for it as well.
09-19-2009, 11:27 PM
#23
I agree to disagree 
I've built and ran both cars that are discussed in here, therefore I have a valid opinion.... you do not
You dont have a point to make, because you dont fit into the criteria. Its pretty simple.
From Wikipedia---- Ignorance is the state in which one lacks knowledge, is unaware of something or chooses to subjectively ignore information. This should not be confused with being unintelligent, as one's level of intelligence and level of education or general awareness are not the same.
Your ignorant yes..... it doesnt mean your stupid, you just ignore information
Did I make the B44 win locally when I ran it.... yes. Was it easy? no. Is it a better club race car for the average guy that buys his parts? no. It will cost you more to campaign for year than a D4 with no breakage on either car. Maintenence is substantially more $$$ on the AE, the car plain wears out quicker. I dont hate on AE BTW, I run a B4 for my 2w mod car. So I am, being impartial.
I've built and ran both cars that are discussed in here, therefore I have a valid opinion.... you do not
You dont have a point to make, because you dont fit into the criteria. Its pretty simple.
From Wikipedia---- Ignorance is the state in which one lacks knowledge, is unaware of something or chooses to subjectively ignore information. This should not be confused with being unintelligent, as one's level of intelligence and level of education or general awareness are not the same.
Your ignorant yes..... it doesnt mean your stupid, you just ignore information
Did I make the B44 win locally when I ran it.... yes. Was it easy? no. Is it a better club race car for the average guy that buys his parts? no. It will cost you more to campaign for year than a D4 with no breakage on either car. Maintenence is substantially more $$$ on the AE, the car plain wears out quicker. I dont hate on AE BTW, I run a B4 for my 2w mod car. So I am, being impartial.
09-19-2009, 11:54 PM
#24
Ahh k so know one else points are valid but yours no worries.
You must be ignorant as you dont need 4 kits worth of parts to get through a night.
You must be ignorant as you dont need 4 kits worth of parts to get through a night.
09-20-2009, 03:25 AM
#25
I vote for the B44. You dont need 4 kits worth of parts to make it through a club race unless you cant drive. Almost every hobby shop carriers Team Associated parts. In the course of a year I have broke 4 arms and 1 shock shaft and 1 shock cap, that includes Cactus and 3 other big races plus we race 4wd alot during club races.
"you need 4 kits worth of parts to make it through a club race" is a statement from a retard who probally needed 4 kits worth of parts.
Both cars are plenty capable of winning....choose the car you like, and can go to your local hobby shop and get full parts support for.
Good Luck!
"you need 4 kits worth of parts to make it through a club race" is a statement from a retard who probally needed 4 kits worth of parts.
Both cars are plenty capable of winning....choose the car you like, and can go to your local hobby shop and get full parts support for.
Good Luck!
09-20-2009, 09:49 AM
#27
But with the D4 you dont need 4 kits worth of parts on the wall to make it through a club night lol 
And the diff problem is a mechanic issue, I would edit your post to: "People at my track dont know how to set diffs" so people dont think your just plain ignorant.
I've ran both..... And they're both capable.... I have yet to break anything on my D4 since building it 2 months ago. I've TQ'd and won with both cars, but I can see with the D4 everything is going to last much longer. The quality difference is huge between the two.
And the diff problem is a mechanic issue, I would edit your post to: "People at my track dont know how to set diffs" so people dont think your just plain ignorant.I've ran both..... And they're both capable.... I have yet to break anything on my D4 since building it 2 months ago. I've TQ'd and won with both cars, but I can see with the D4 everything is going to last much longer. The quality difference is huge between the two.
I think I can read quite well actually and it doesn't say anything about the average club racer!
09-20-2009, 09:56 AM
#28
Did I make the B44 win locally when I ran it.... yes. Was it easy? no. Is it a better club race car for the average guy that buys his parts? no. It will cost you more to campaign for year than a D4 with no breakage on either car. Maintenence is substantially more $$$ on the AE, the car plain wears out quicker. I dont hate on AE BTW, I run a B4 for my 2w mod car. So I am, being impartial.
09-20-2009, 11:33 AM
#29
But with the D4 you dont need 4 kits worth of parts on the wall to make it through a club night lol And the diff problem is a mechanic issue, I would edit your post to: "People at my track dont know how to set diffs" so people dont think your just plain ignorant.
I've ran both..... And they're both capable.... I have yet to break anything on my D4 since building it 2 months ago. I've TQ'd and won with both cars, but I can see with the D4 everything is going to last much longer. The quality difference is huge between the two.
And the diff problem is a mechanic issue, I would edit your post to: "People at my track dont know how to set diffs" so people dont think your just plain ignorant.I've ran both..... And they're both capable.... I have yet to break anything on my D4 since building it 2 months ago. I've TQ'd and won with both cars, but I can see with the D4 everything is going to last much longer. The quality difference is huge between the two.
Its posts like this..
09-20-2009, 05:34 PM
#30
I happen to have both of these buggies currently. I really only need one around, so I think I might sell one. Comment on the electronics or not.
The Team Factory B44 has Associated parts and shock springs and shock o-rings and things I am used to from other Associated parts, so I like that. The drive train is a bit quieter. A little cheaper, but parts cost more. More common so parts are easier to find.
The Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 looks a bit neater. The construction is a bit beefier. The drive train is a kinda noisy. The parts seem a little more refined. The D4 is a bit more expensive, with cheaper parts. Parts harder to find. More wheel options.
Both have about the same turning radius.
Both weigh about the same. I'm not familiar with center and front and rear diffs enough to determine if one is better than the other and I would appreciate some insight there, amongst any other advice. Thanks.
Oh. The B44 is pictured on the left. D4 on the right, for those of you who didn't already know that!
The Team Factory B44 has Associated parts and shock springs and shock o-rings and things I am used to from other Associated parts, so I like that. The drive train is a bit quieter. A little cheaper, but parts cost more. More common so parts are easier to find.
The Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 looks a bit neater. The construction is a bit beefier. The drive train is a kinda noisy. The parts seem a little more refined. The D4 is a bit more expensive, with cheaper parts. Parts harder to find. More wheel options.
Both have about the same turning radius.
Both weigh about the same. I'm not familiar with center and front and rear diffs enough to determine if one is better than the other and I would appreciate some insight there, amongst any other advice. Thanks.
Oh. The B44 is pictured on the left. D4 on the right, for those of you who didn't already know that!
At any rate though you got rail roaded. What have you decided? Thought we forgot ya huh?
D4-B44 is the question................?