bnangle

Instead of buying that "y" Type connector it is easier and cheaper to just take a dean connector and solder a bridge across its terminals shrink wrap it and simply plug it into the unused esc dean.You can tie wrap the lead out of the way cleanly making it look alot better and managable plus if you ever need the other lead just unplug your little dean plug you made and your set.I did this with a novak on my TXT and it works fine.

Also the pull apart guys are on ebay for the Vorza.I just won 4 out of stock anywhere else items however some guy paid 48 dollars for whhel nuts and the adapters they screw on.A little high I think.

pgeldz

Droop was 98mm up front, 100.5 out back. Ride height was rather high at like 32mm up font, 31 out back. Ride height needs to be changed to bones level out back, and maybe 1mm higher than that up front. With the 1.3 pistons and 45wt oil in the back, I felt it was still a little soft, escpecially for our big triple.

Yeah, wasn't sure. Some ESC's alot a number of FET's to certain funtions depending how you have them set up. When you limit certain functions, like taking off reverse alltogether, it frees up those FET's for forward power, at least I've read that about soem ESC's. Not sure how the Monster works though. Sounded good in theory


Yes, droop is measured from the center of the shock mounting bolts.

Mine are both in the upper hole. Keep in mind that the Vorza came with the rear hub in the rear position. I wanted a shorter wheelbase like my D8 so I moved the spacer to the rear.

Hope that helped some.



- Paulie

danulmer18

iTrader: (5)

Cheers for that Paulie, Do you know what the effect of changing the rear hub hingepin to the bottom hole would be?

Also what is the shorter wheelbase good for? What will the car do? I am wondering if I should change the spacer like you.

Thanks

Dan

pgeldz

Dan, please e-mail me at [email protected]

I will reply back with a comprehensive guide that will answer all your questions.



- Paulie

Vision

iTrader: (41)

Personally I prefer a single connector off the esc, so I cut of the oem deans and went with trx. Then I bought a Y cable incase I want to run 2 packs, which will be handy as I just ordered two 2s 5200mah turnigy hardcases. Otherwise I have a single trx coming of my 6s pack to use with the esc.

horseteeth

Hobby king lists these batts as 26 mm, and some one posted up the vorza battery width as 51, so running two of these could be a tight fit? I'm about to order some of these batts too, very cheap!

Apparently they have 8 guage wire on the batts, are the traxxas connectors easy to solder?

Ferret

After I run a pair of 1/10 packs in my 1/8 I charge them as a single 4s pack using an adapter harness I made.

wrexxy

Got my new VORZA in the mail last week (unfortunately cannot post pics easily due to r/c tech newbie status) however it's still stock so it's been shown before many times. (Although I did remove 99% of the stickers to give it a cleaner look).

So far very happy with it. I've had nitro cars/trucks in the past but this is a whole different kettle of fish. Heavier than I was expecting however when I go from NiMh to LiPo soon that should be helped. Acceleration out of the hole is very impressive. My modded traxxas slash needs a 20 foot run-up to jumps that the Vorza needs 3 foot run-up to clear. Though like some I've experienced the juttering under full amp load. Can't say I've tried 25c+ LiPo yet so probably can't comment just yet. I do operate it under powerlines so that could be the issue.

Anyway it's good to be back in this hobby, I look forward to racing the Vorza and learning more from the folks in this forum.

As mentioned, can't post pic links, so delete the space between the "ht" and the "tp"... cheers,

ht tp://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18538_311214013407_522208407_4803068_5512251_n.jpg

ht tp://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18538_311214018407_522208407_4803069_8142054_n.jpg

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ht tp://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18538_311211813407_522208407_4803061_33614_n.jpg

ht tp://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs158.snc3/18538_311211818407_522208407_4803062_5378598_n.jpg

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Vision

iTrader: (41)

Yeah it will be a tight fit, but I'm hoping doable. The trx connectors are ok to solder, just take your time. There easier to pull apart than deans for me.

Vision

iTrader: (41)

wrexxy, nice pics. I always wondered what it would look like minus the decals. Yeah the Vorza is a beast vs a slash. Once you go lipo it will be so much better.

OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (29)

So i went to the track this weekend and Ebuggy is still pretty new in my area only about 5-6 of us total at the moment.

Anyways my Ve8 was sidelined with electronics issues from last week and the owner asked me to drive and make some changes to his buggy.

It was an RTR untouched vorza. I put white front, yellow rears, 27mm front ride height 28mm rear, full droop in the rear, minus 2mm in the front (i had no tools to measure this was a quick hack job setup) A set of medium city blocks and BAM.. was able to win the Amain at my small club race.

With a little more time i think i could have had it as fast and smooth as my Ve8 bit i was fairly impressed with it for stock electronics and things.



if someone was set on a RTR brushless buggy THIS WOULD be on the top of the list for SURE.

Fastenough

OWTKAST - I would change the center diff oil too. It's really heavy, like 100,000 wt. for bashing and not racing.

I've got 5k front, 5k, center and 2-5k in rear.

Fastenough

5k front, 5k center and 5k rear is my favorite so far. I've seen lots of d8 setups using 2k in the rear. It seems to be too loose for me on the Vorza

OWTKAST cpt

iTrader: (29)

I will never drive the car again just kind of got thrown into the deal with what i had. He emailed me today and was AMAZED.. cause it was AWFUL my first qualifier.

I will pass the knowledge on to him for sure though.

wrexxy

Thanks, Vision. I can tell you it doesn't look that clean now! Had a blast on a slightly muddy track this afternoon. Had a couple (seemingly fixable) breaks.

1. The rear body mount snapped off. Having a closer look at the design of it, I'm not surprised. By the way getting the body on and off this thing is a pain in the proverbial. I think I'll have to trim it a bit and use some velcro on the tray instead. The clips are also a bit of a pain to get off unless you have smaller than average hands.

2. As mentioned previously, I'm relegated to my nimh packs until the next paycheck. Nose dived on a landing and the weight from 14cell worth of heavy battery decided to crack the front of the battery holder. Can't get those lighter/faster LiPo's soon enough!

Also I really need to figure out what setup to use to have less bottom-out on landings. Would a much thicker shock oil help? I don't want the rebound rate to be overly slow. I don't think I'll be doing much bashing with this thing. Mainly track and road.