dsl

iTrader: (1)

My son is running an SC10 (all stock except a Novak rooster ESC and 7 cell batteries).

He is only 9 and races casually at club races. This past race day his motor must have burned up. One of the wires coming out of the motor melted the solder right off and it felt as hot as my nitro engines (at least 220+).

It smelled really bad! , but I have not checked anything yet.

I imagine the motor is toast. Should the ESC be OK?

Can someone recommend a brushed motor to replace it with? I was thinking about the Trinity Komodo Dragon 19T motor. Is this a good one for the money? I'm trying to stay away from brushless because I just bought the ESC and it can't handle brushless motors + I want to keep cost down for now.

Also, any brush recommendations and extra parts recommendations for motor maintenance (brush type, etc.)?

Is brushed really outdated?

Thanks for the help!

dsl

iTrader: (1)

BUMP Please help! Thanks

vr6cj

iTrader: (124)

I've seen the same Reedy replacement motor for $15 on EBay. Yeah, 220 is smoking that thing. You can take it out and clean it up. Check to see if the windings or commutater are burnt, if not put it back together and it should still run fine. You can always gear it down a tooth too. Just make sure you have enough time inbetween runs to let the motor cool down too.

bob o

iTrader: (2)

If your son is new to R/C, I would go with a 27 turn stock motor and 6 cell battery.
Wes the 7 cell and the kit motor will be faster, but not the best combination for a new person to R/C. Let him get used to everything and THEN bump up the speed. Also get yourdelf a rnge of pinions so you can dial in the truck to each track.
The 7 cell, stock kit morot, and stock kit gearing is probably what did it in.
Rember "SLOW IS FAST"
Bob Oaks

dsl

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to stick with the 7 cell batteries since I have purchased 2 already. Is there a motor that can take this without overheating?

Also, is it likely that the ESC got damaged? The ESC is a Novak Rooster for brushed motors only.

Thanks again

Noah R.

iTrader: (1)

You could always take a cell off by unsoldering it. Like its been said before, you need to gear down with 7 cells going through it. The ESC is most likely undamaged unless the motor leads touched. Any motor can handle it as long as its geared properly

joelwhite

iTrader: (62)

Rick Howart (the AE man) has recommened in other posts not to run with seven cells. I know its a pain since you have seven cells but maybe you can break the packs down to six cells. Also gearing has alot to do with it.

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

Dont sweat burning up the stock motor. The stock reedy raydon motors are very inexpensive and normally do not last that long.

The brushed is being replaced by brushless, but its not out dated. Think of it as fuel injection replacing carburators. You wont find a new car with a carburator on it, but the old carburator cars still run just fine. ( long analogy sorry )

Any way, I have a Komodo Dragon 19t and a Novak Rooster esc in my B3. I have used it on and off for almost 2 years with no issues, and thats with a lipo battery. So your 7 cell packs will work just fine. And as for the money, the motors are well worth it.

The 19t will be noticably faster than the stock one that your replacing, so keep that in mind. If you want a motor that is a little slower than what your replacing buy the CO27 stock motor, its good as well.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLXT6&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMDY7&P=ML

both are good, and are also available in a "pro" tuned version. The pro version is not worth the extra $ in my opinion, and your son (possibly your self too) will never notice the difference.

dsl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks everyone for your help.

I'm going to change my packs from 7 to 6 cells and get the Komodo motor.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Check this link out. Some good stuff here too. The Komodo is a nice motor aswell. It's more torquey
http://www.teamepiconline.com/shop/p...otors&h=Motors

Rick Hohwart

540 size motors like those that come with the car and those for competion like 19 and 27 turn stock motors are designed and intended for use with 6-cells. You can run 7 but they WILL fail just as yours did.

I might even be inclined to go back to where ytou bought the battery and trade them in for batteries that work with your truck. If the hobby shop recommended 7-cell batteries, they sold you the wrong thing.

dsl

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Rick.

However, this was user error I just assumed that 7 cells would give more power and took advice from the wrong people.

wheelhaus

I burned mine up, too.
Something overheated the endbell (bearing shifting, seizing, too much amperage, hell I don't know). Solder melted, wire popped off, the whole endbell is melted and warped. Also a brush wire turned purple...

I'm also running 7-cell and although I didn't expect the motor to last forever, I still should have dropped the pinion by a few teeth. I know the motors aren't "supposed" to be run with 7-cell packs, but if the voltage is 16% higher, then dropping gearing 16% shorter (15t pinion) should compensate by reducing amperage and heat.

For a replacement, I'm installinga Tekin RS Pro and Redline 10.5 brushless system. Also picked up a range of pinions and spurs to test different gearing and temps.