Jammin SCRT10 Thread
12-18-2010, 08:21 PM
#8221
I need some help. I have a couple of Jammins and Hyper 10's. I've been racing the Hypers but want to start racing the Jammins. I used my Jammin race truck last night and to be blunt it felt like shit. It has all the bells and whistles that money can buy aside from a graphite chassis....it even has the pillow ball conversion. Anyway, it was terrible regardless of what tires I used. It wouldn't turn well, it bucked a lot, and the traction was terrible...it was actually spinning out.
Our track is a mix of pure clay and fine sandy soil. Usually the track hooks ok for the first round of racing but the later the night gets the worse the track gets. Its outdoors, relatively smooth with a few good sized jumps. I think that I have good mechanical steering but the truck is loose and does not actually turn well on the track. I run the white springs and I think it has 45 wt oil in all 4 shocks. Its pretty cold out this time of year.
I'm pretty new to 4x4 SCT so I don't understand how the different weight diff fluids affect the way the car handles. I'm pretty sure that I need to drop the shock oil down to 40/35 or 35/30 but I want to understand what I need to do with the difs. I run each truck with a different setup so they are all not the same. This particular truck is supposed to be my best one....I run a 4.5 motor geared at 13 or 14 and Enduro tires. I'm not sure whats in the diffs currently. My favorite Hyper that handles great has 5-5-2. I run the Castle 3800 in that truck on Bowties with a 14T pinion and it feels awesome. My Jammin should be better....help! I plan to set up a third SCRT10 with the Castle system too so understanding what does what in the difs would be a big help. Could somebody help me out?
Our track is a mix of pure clay and fine sandy soil. Usually the track hooks ok for the first round of racing but the later the night gets the worse the track gets. Its outdoors, relatively smooth with a few good sized jumps. I think that I have good mechanical steering but the truck is loose and does not actually turn well on the track. I run the white springs and I think it has 45 wt oil in all 4 shocks. Its pretty cold out this time of year.
I'm pretty new to 4x4 SCT so I don't understand how the different weight diff fluids affect the way the car handles. I'm pretty sure that I need to drop the shock oil down to 40/35 or 35/30 but I want to understand what I need to do with the difs. I run each truck with a different setup so they are all not the same. This particular truck is supposed to be my best one....I run a 4.5 motor geared at 13 or 14 and Enduro tires. I'm not sure whats in the diffs currently. My favorite Hyper that handles great has 5-5-2. I run the Castle 3800 in that truck on Bowties with a 14T pinion and it feels awesome. My Jammin should be better....help! I plan to set up a third SCRT10 with the Castle system too so understanding what does what in the difs would be a big help. Could somebody help me out?
As far as diff setup, there is a bunch of info. Use your Goggle.
12-18-2010, 08:36 PM
#8222
I actually have 2 Hypers and as of right now 4 Jammins. I'm eventually going to have 2 and 2. I'm trying to set them all up a little different. My 2 Hypers are pretty dialed. One runs a Castle SCT system (my favorite), the other runs a Novak 6.5, and as of right now the 2 working Jammins run 4.5s. Because of the differences in motors and weights of the trucks I don't think that there is a one size fits all set up. Also, why would I want to google that question when all I have to do is ask? I couldn't find exactly what I wanted via the search function so I'm asking. I'm not looking for the Unibombers manifesto or anything. I just need to know which oil does what inside each diff....I need more steering. Is that so unreasonable? Its not like I'm asking if I need to go larger or smaller on my pinion gear to get more top speed. I've owned dozens of cars but most of them were 2wd and had ball diffs....I understand that a thicker fluid is going to lock the diffs more but I'm not sure that I know how the relationship between the 3 diffs works in relation to each other based on whats in them. Can somebody give a simple explanation?
12-18-2010, 09:36 PM
#8223
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I hope this helps you a little 
http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=24&page=1
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...25&postcount=4
They both helped me a lot.
http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=24&page=1
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...25&postcount=4
They both helped me a lot.
12-19-2010, 11:10 AM
#8225
Anyone else notice these new towers on nitro house? They look pretty sweet to me, and much cheaper than the snr ones.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
12-19-2010, 06:00 PM
#8226
Anyone else notice these new towers on nitro house? They look pretty sweet to me, and much cheaper than the snr ones.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
I can vouch for the material SNR uses as being very reliable. Plus he customizes them to fit whatever shock stand-off stud size you are using.
12-19-2010, 06:12 PM
#8227
Anyone else notice these new towers on nitro house? They look pretty sweet to me, and much cheaper than the snr ones.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
http://www.nitrohouse.com/advanced_s...1d7335e16107e4
12-19-2010, 07:49 PM
#8228
Go back to the box stock setup and it will feel better. I also was caught up in all the Chad Bradley setups and ran into the same problems. In addition, there are a ton of his setups out there and those setup sheets do not all match just a simple setup.
12-21-2010, 12:43 AM
#8230
I had my truck apart the other day refilling the shocks and I noticed something a bit odd. With both shocks off the truck, I was moving the suspension up and down through it's travel to check for any binding. There was none, but I found something else that I've never seen before. The sway bars only act on one side of the suspension. So like if I moved the right side suspension all the way up, like full compressed, the sway bar moves the left side starting at about 50% of the right sides max travel. But if I try the same thing with the left side, the sway bar only moves the right side suspension a little bit, just the the end of the left sides max suspension compression. And I found the same problem in the rear. (left and right used for reference only, i dont remember which side it actually was)
It looks like there is just too much room in the holder that keeps it on the bulkhead. So I tried tightening the little set screws, that made no changes what so ever. I tried repositioning where the sway bar mounts to the suspension arms, as if maybe it wasn't centered, no changes there either.
So I am pretty
with the whole thing, and I was hoping someone here knows whats up, and how to fix it. Hopefully you guys understand what I wrote. It is tough to describe, but if my wording makes no sense let me know. I can shoot a quick vid of what it is doing and it will make perfect sense.
Also I installed some Calibers on Rulux wheels yesterday. Being that they are taller than stock tires, I noticed my front suspension was a bit off. The chassis couldn't bottom out before the shocks did. So I moved the upper shock mount to the hole just above the one it was installed in from the factory. Seems to have solved it, but is that normal? Like is that what everyone does who aren't using rear shocks up front? And is that going to affect the way it drives? I know it's basically just lowering the chassis. But I haven't raced it yet, so I'm just curious.
Thanks
It looks like there is just too much room in the holder that keeps it on the bulkhead. So I tried tightening the little set screws, that made no changes what so ever. I tried repositioning where the sway bar mounts to the suspension arms, as if maybe it wasn't centered, no changes there either.
So I am pretty
with the whole thing, and I was hoping someone here knows whats up, and how to fix it. Hopefully you guys understand what I wrote. It is tough to describe, but if my wording makes no sense let me know. I can shoot a quick vid of what it is doing and it will make perfect sense.Also I installed some Calibers on Rulux wheels yesterday. Being that they are taller than stock tires, I noticed my front suspension was a bit off. The chassis couldn't bottom out before the shocks did. So I moved the upper shock mount to the hole just above the one it was installed in from the factory. Seems to have solved it, but is that normal? Like is that what everyone does who aren't using rear shocks up front? And is that going to affect the way it drives? I know it's basically just lowering the chassis. But I haven't raced it yet, so I'm just curious.
Thanks
12-21-2010, 01:29 AM
#8233
12-21-2010, 07:23 AM
#8234
All of the diff outdrives will wobble eventually on the plastic side. The diff cup outdrive is all plastic and gets worn very quickly. They will first wobble and then start leaking if not addressed. 1/8 scale diffs have a steel insert in the plastic diff cup and hardly ever wear out. I asked the guys at nitrohouse if they knew of any diff cups that had the steel insert that would fit our trucks and they didn't know of any. The only remedy is to replace it. In fact my new truck had an outdrive that wobbled and I hadn't even run it yet.
12-21-2010, 09:03 AM
#8235
I had my truck apart the other day refilling the shocks and I noticed something a bit odd. With both shocks off the truck, I was moving the suspension up and down through it's travel to check for any binding. There was none, but I found something else that I've never seen before. The sway bars only act on one side of the suspension. So like if I moved the right side suspension all the way up, like full compressed, the sway bar moves the left side starting at about 50% of the right sides max travel. But if I try the same thing with the left side, the sway bar only moves the right side suspension a little bit, just the the end of the left sides max suspension compression. And I found the same problem in the rear. (left and right used for reference only, i dont remember which side it actually was)
It looks like there is just too much room in the holder that keeps it on the bulkhead. So I tried tightening the little set screws, that made no changes what so ever. I tried repositioning where the sway bar mounts to the suspension arms, as if maybe it wasn't centered, no changes there either.
So I am pretty with the whole thing, and I was hoping someone here knows whats up, and how to fix it. Hopefully you guys understand what I wrote. It is tough to describe, but if my wording makes no sense let me know. I can shoot a quick vid of what it is doing and it will make perfect sense.
Also I installed some Calibers on Rulux wheels yesterday. Being that they are taller than stock tires, I noticed my front suspension was a bit off. The chassis couldn't bottom out before the shocks did. So I moved the upper shock mount to the hole just above the one it was installed in from the factory. Seems to have solved it, but is that normal? Like is that what everyone does who aren't using rear shocks up front? And is that going to affect the way it drives? I know it's basically just lowering the chassis. But I haven't raced it yet, so I'm just curious.
Thanks
It looks like there is just too much room in the holder that keeps it on the bulkhead. So I tried tightening the little set screws, that made no changes what so ever. I tried repositioning where the sway bar mounts to the suspension arms, as if maybe it wasn't centered, no changes there either.
So I am pretty
with the whole thing, and I was hoping someone here knows whats up, and how to fix it. Hopefully you guys understand what I wrote. It is tough to describe, but if my wording makes no sense let me know. I can shoot a quick vid of what it is doing and it will make perfect sense.Also I installed some Calibers on Rulux wheels yesterday. Being that they are taller than stock tires, I noticed my front suspension was a bit off. The chassis couldn't bottom out before the shocks did. So I moved the upper shock mount to the hole just above the one it was installed in from the factory. Seems to have solved it, but is that normal? Like is that what everyone does who aren't using rear shocks up front? And is that going to affect the way it drives? I know it's basically just lowering the chassis. But I haven't raced it yet, so I'm just curious.
Thanks
1. Remove wheels and shocks
2. Make sure the arms move freely up and drop under their own weight
3. Make sure sway bar moves freely within the brackets that hold it to the diff case. (you said you tightened them, so loosen them up until bar can wiggle some)
4. Make sure the ball on the ends are set with same distance on both ends of the sway bar and the set screw is tight.
5. Put car on a car stand so the arms will hang down
6. Lift the left arm and take note of the amount of space it takes to start to barely lift the right arm. Now lift the right arm and note the space for it to take to barely lift left arm. Note the side that takes less space and side that takes more space.
7. From here you know which side to adjust. Either shorten the sway bar linkage that mounts sway bar to the arm on the side that has less space, or lengthen the side that takes more space.
8. If linkages are as small as can be (bottomed out), then lengthen the side that takes more space. Pop off the linkage from the ball end and unscrew the end in half turns at a time and pop back on ball end and re-test.
9. Continue to adjust until both arms begin move at the same time when only one side is lifted.
10. Finally, the set screws that hold middle of sway bar, adjust them back down to where bar barely moves freely without too much play.
Hope this helps!
Tim