AreCee

iTrader: (1)

So go to your local Radio Shack and buy a desoldering tool, just ask them for one if you don't know what it is. Go home, unsolder the wires, desolder the posts and you can start over. What is so difficult?

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

Not sure he knew about the de-soldering tool.

Photocycler

iTrader: (36)

thanks..exactly!!!

Going to get one, just one more question..what temperature do you guys usually solder at?

jacsac

iTrader: (23)

You can use desoldering wick, solder sucker, silicone baby nose cleaner, or even a wet sponge to remove the excess. Only remove enough wire insulation so the wire covers whatever you are soldering to.

The best way for a good, clean, wiring job is to plan it out not just wing it.

Checkout the show your wiring threads in both offroad and onroad electric for some good ideas.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-thread-7.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...tion-pics.html

Jeremey

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the solder wick.

I've never tried to get the wire in the grove of the posts on the RS. I just tin the top of the post and wire and solder, works for me.

fazznick

iTrader: (2)

Not sure if this link will work but it is a good how to video from team tekin.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QktbPHdvQA

Randy_Pike

iTrader: (6)

IT's not as important to get the wires in the grooves of the Rs line as it is in the Rx8.

The best thing is making sure your joint is solid,secure, and CLEAN!

The biggest thing we see is either TOO much solder, or NOT enough solder.

The best way to learn soldering is by watching someone that knows how.

Anthony.L

iTrader: (41)

I was going to say the exact same thing. I've had great results with soldering the wires to the top of the posts directly, without flattening them at all or trying to get inside the slots.

SaladFork

iTrader: (9)

This might help some peeps, made this awhile ago.

+ YouTube Video

DavidR

iTrader: (97)

Nice Vid!

I'd suggest one thing though...

After you clean the tip of the iron, and before you go on to the next wire or joint, tin the tip of your iron as well.

Helps transfer heat faster, and as such helps the solder flow better.

Flux obviously helps, but the best way I've found is to tin the iron just a bit before starting a joint.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

I found soldering the wires to the RS Pro was much easier than most ESC's. I used a 60w iron and (very sparingly) liquid flux. In 4WD offroad buggy ran the wires straight up off the esc posts to go over the upper deck. Prepped (filled) the esc post slots with solder, pre-soldered wire ends, tin the iron tip and soldered end of wire to end of post simultaneously. I definitely needed a hot iron to quickly melt both wire and post soldered ends together without overheating ESC post.

ta_man

iTrader: (168)

This is how I soldered the wires on my Tekin RS:



This is 14Ga wire. First I whipped the ends (with 26Ga bare wire). If you don't know what "whipping" is look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipping_knot

After whipping (but before tinning the wires) I flattened them in the jaws of a pair of pliers to the point where they would fit in the solder post slots, then tinned the wire ends. Put some flux in the slot, put the wire in, then hit it with the iron, and you see what I got. I use a weller 4033S chisel tip iron. It is only 45 watts but has an 1100F tip temperature and will solder most anything RC related very quickly.

For the person that already had solder on the RS posts, put flux on them, hold the ESC upside down, and touch the posts with an iron. The solder will melt off and flow onto the iron where it can easily be wiped off. The whipped, tinned ends of the wire are relatively stiff so they would be able to fit in the slots as the solder melts without needing to remove the solder that was there.

Flux is very important to get joints like you see above. I use paste flux every time I touch an iron to a joint.