Team Associated SC8-E
06-12-2009, 03:13 PM
#1
Team Associated SC8-E
Since I didn't see one I figured I would start a thread. I have one coming in on Tuesday and plan to do a build thread on it. I am going to be using a Castle Mamba Monster 2200kv system in mine with 4s4200mah 35c Hyperion Lipo's. If anyone has built one and has any tips please feel free to post them.
06-14-2009, 12:32 PM
#2
i have one. the build is pretty simple and strait forward. only thing i ran into a problem with is when i mounted my mamba 2200 motor when the center diff and motor mount was already mounted to the chassis because the motor hits the chassis. the motor might even be a mm or two too big but if u do as i did below it seems to fit but the motor will be snug against the chassis.
if you mount the motor and set your gear mesh prior to intalling the center diff and motor mount assembly it will be much easier.
also since your using a mamba system like me, youl notice that the wire to the reciever from the esc is a tad short to run it through the wire tunnels to the radio box.
this can be fixed by running the wires thru the tunels under the battery tray but rather than going over the axle in front of the center diff, you can run it under the chassis brace which will give you alot more slack.
i also used the traxxas e-revo MMM esc mount and trimmed the battery esc tray on the very back so i can mount the esc a lil farther back.
i used the trx esc mount because it has a nice esc switch mount which makes wire cleanliness very easy.
also the stock 15t pinion seems to be a sweet spot if you run normal timing,
other than that enjoy its a blast!
if you mount the motor and set your gear mesh prior to intalling the center diff and motor mount assembly it will be much easier.
also since your using a mamba system like me, youl notice that the wire to the reciever from the esc is a tad short to run it through the wire tunnels to the radio box.
this can be fixed by running the wires thru the tunels under the battery tray but rather than going over the axle in front of the center diff, you can run it under the chassis brace which will give you alot more slack.
i also used the traxxas e-revo MMM esc mount and trimmed the battery esc tray on the very back so i can mount the esc a lil farther back.
i used the trx esc mount because it has a nice esc switch mount which makes wire cleanliness very easy.
also the stock 15t pinion seems to be a sweet spot if you run normal timing,
other than that enjoy its a blast!
06-14-2009, 02:49 PM
#3
Raydee... your really making me want to build on of these. God let the tc4 and my new truggy be enough to keep me happy!
06-14-2009, 03:41 PM
#4
Chris, its RC...man its never enough. If I listed the RC cars that I have owned in the last 25 years it would make your head spin. The worst part is at 35 years old I am still buying and selling RC cars, trucks, heli's and boats like a maniac 
Look for a USPS confirmation number tonight when I make up the shipping label.
Kyle thanks for the info. Do you have to remove the diff everytime you take the motor out? I heard that the 2200 Neu (mamba) motor was a tight fit but this is the first i am hearing that you have to remove the diff for it to fit right.
Look for a USPS confirmation number tonight when I make up the shipping label.
Kyle thanks for the info. Do you have to remove the diff everytime you take the motor out? I heard that the 2200 Neu (mamba) motor was a tight fit but this is the first i am hearing that you have to remove the diff for it to fit right.
06-15-2009, 08:18 AM
#5
i guess you dont have to remove the whole thing but ud def have to loosen the assembly to mount the motor. but the other big reason i did it by removing the center diff/ motor plate is because you cant get hex drivers in there theres not enuff room. you could use an L shaped allen key bit itd be difficult.
romoving the diff assembly isnt bad at all, its 4 screws and by doing that itl allow you to get the bolt in the motor nice and tight with ease, you will also be able to set the gear mesh real easy, then all you do is mount the whole thing back on the chassis.
romoving the diff assembly isnt bad at all, its 4 screws and by doing that itl allow you to get the bolt in the motor nice and tight with ease, you will also be able to set the gear mesh real easy, then all you do is mount the whole thing back on the chassis.
06-15-2009, 06:16 PM
#6
That doesn't sound difficult at all. I just got my Mamba Monster system in today, hopefully the SC8-E will be in tomorrow and I can get to building. DO you have any suggestions for the Monster system? Is the pinion that comes in the kit usefull?
06-15-2009, 07:16 PM
#7
the stock pinion gear works great for me.
if youre lookin to use it for track use itd be a great set up or atleast a great starting point depending on size of track.
my complete set up is as followes...
mmm 2200
stock pinion
stock spur
2 core 2s 5000mah lipos
the esc settings...
punch control is off
starting power is on high
timing is on normal
... thats about all that would effect how it performs
also dont use high starting power unless the lipos you are using have a c rating around 25+
if youre lookin to use it for track use itd be a great set up or atleast a great starting point depending on size of track.
my complete set up is as followes...
mmm 2200
stock pinion
stock spur
2 core 2s 5000mah lipos
the esc settings...
punch control is off
starting power is on high
timing is on normal
... thats about all that would effect how it performs
also dont use high starting power unless the lipos you are using have a c rating around 25+
06-15-2009, 07:38 PM
#8
oh and the turnbuckle wrench that comes with it is useless. i went to sears and picked up a metric carb wrench set as the turnbuckles are 5.5mm and this made is much much much easier to set the alignment.
the shock oil is a tad light. i used 35wt
also the forward brake reverse settting on the esc is crap. as soon when you hit the brakes the wheels will instantly stop truck still moving forward of course and then go to reverse and make you lose control
if u are gonna use reverse use the revers lockout setting as it will not go to reverse until u are neutral for 2 seconds
the shock oil is a tad light. i used 35wt
also the forward brake reverse settting on the esc is crap. as soon when you hit the brakes the wheels will instantly stop truck still moving forward of course and then go to reverse and make you lose control
if u are gonna use reverse use the revers lockout setting as it will not go to reverse until u are neutral for 2 seconds
06-16-2009, 06:21 AM
#10
yep they will fit im running a set of proline revolver v3's on mine now for the track. the truck handles much better but looks less realistic
06-16-2009, 12:45 PM
#12
I just finished mine last night. Pretty simple build, I didn't come across any problems. When I mounted my Mamba Monster I did have to remove the center diff to ease the installation though. I am going to take it to the track tonight. I drove it up the street a couple of times last night, and let me tell you this thing hauls a**. I put the recommended 25 wt. shock oil in, but I think it needs at least 40 wt. I will test it tonight and see how it is.
I am running:
2200 kv Mamba Monster
4s 5400mah 40c SMC Lipo
Stock Spur
Stock Pinion
I am running:
2200 kv Mamba Monster
4s 5400mah 40c SMC Lipo
Stock Spur
Stock Pinion
06-17-2009, 02:15 PM
#14
All done, just need to paint the body and install my electronic's.
I did notice that the drivetrain is very loud just rolling it on the ground. I checked the pinion mesh and it looks good. Did ayone else notice that? It may just need to breakin a bit?
I did notice that the drivetrain is very loud just rolling it on the ground. I checked the pinion mesh and it looks good. Did ayone else notice that? It may just need to breakin a bit?
06-17-2009, 05:40 PM
#15
its because of the motor. mine does it as well it only does it when u push it, when ur driving it it doesnt make any noise