here's a few. sorry about the glare off of the aluminum.

exactly. also the hinge pins are longer and the crush bushing is smaller.

About the rear hubs. I went to the hobby store expecting to buy the parts for the LOSI conversion but instead bought the Racers Edge 1 degree rear hub and also CVD's. By using the Racers Edge I did have to relocate the ball link to a new location using the same hardware but other than that everything fit perfectly with no modifications. The Racers Edge 1 degree are a little pricey but this made a very huge difference in handling. Night and Day difference!

i want to thank all thoses who replied so quickly i am temporarely going to use the losi 1 deg.setup until i get all the GT2 parts. since i broke an arm at the track and all i had were the carbon arms which will probably break faster than the stock arms.
thanks again.

Quick question what are you guys using to fill the holes in the wheels with JB weld.

And Which 17mm adapter are you using ?

yes they are, and the hubs are 17mm which is the exact opening of the t4 arms less the spacer = or - a mm . i orderd everything and came to around 22.00 . i am going to try the 1.5 hubs first to see if i can get them to fit with some filing if not put the parts on and go from there. as for the bearings my understanding is the SC 10 bearings are the same as the gt2 . if all else fails i have been eyeing the b44 front carriers to make an adjustable rear degree hub for the SC10 , just swap out the front carriers to the rear ... well thats another story

JB weld in the wheels, mix it and use a straw to scoop it up and place in hole and blow till you fill, may take 4-5 times to fill per hole. This is the cleanest way I think to do it.



1 degree losi hubs installed, all you need to do is slightly bore the holes with an 1/8 drill bit to get a good fit.




Custom battery strap, got the idea from BuggyKing, this way you can use any configuration without battery wires getting in the way of original battery strap.



And aluminum brace/skidplate installed.



Thanks to all for the ideas, maybe I'll get to run it next week.


Jake

Did you ever get the GT2 rear arms installed? I broke my frt arms this week and got a set of RPM frt arms. I was looking to upgrade to the GT2 rear arms from RPM and install the GT2 rear hubs. I need some toe in. Just wondering if the rear amrs fit properly or am I going to have to modify stuff. also is there anything else I will have to but to make this work.

thanks in advance.

Hey Jake,

Looks like my SC10. Good job on the hubs and battery strap. I changed up my oil etc a bit. You need to race it.

Now Jake you just have to get it to handle like mine and youll be set.

I used a 2 part epoxy glue that I had to fill in the holes for the rims. I just use a toothpick to scoop and fill.

Jake,

You ever run that? It looks way too clean!

All the LHS here are out of the rear rims!! Does anyone know any alternative to stock rims? What is this hex spacer from Slash? and what kind of rims can you use other than stock slash rims? I thought the stock slash rims were heavier than sc10s, anyone have hard numbers?

i have a question about the gt2 1.5 rear hubs. it is my understanding that the gt2 hubs have a wider offset than the original sc10 hubs. if this is correct can someone who has both let me know how much wider each hub is?
i have another truck i want to install some 1.5 hubs on and i have the sc10 hubs for referance but no access to the gt2 without just ordering them blindly. also, do the gt2 rear hubs use 3/16 x 3/8 bearings.

SC10 Chassis Breaking Modification.

I didn't break my chassis, but when I heard of so many others doing so, I came up with this idea. I tried it out this week (tried to short land) a couple of times. Don't know if what I tested would have broken the chassis or not, but I invite others to try it out.

I drilled (#43) down through the stock mounting holes all the way through the part. Then I used the cut-off wheel on my dremel to remove the tabs from the part. Next I used a 4-40 tap to clean out the holes. I threaded in some short shock shafts, cut some fuel tube and reinstalled. Also, I used the e-clips on the back side (top of shaft) to help secure the parts because when I pick up the truck by the bumper, you can pull the shafts out.

The idea here is to let the bumper give a bit. Flex instead of break. The front section is so rigid that the next week link has become the chassis. I would rather break the tower, or the bumper ideally if anything at all.

Let me know if you guys try it or have any luck.

I did not break mine either but I just put a brace from the center bolt of the shoch tower down to the chassis (will try to get pics up). For 2 weeks I just ran with out the upper brace to the front bumper. This looks like the best fix to me though or maybe a full cage that attaches to the front shock tower but I don't have the skill or tools to build one.

Thanks McDonaldsracing for sharing that tip, gonna play around with hexes & Slash wheels and see how it works out. Tha JB weld idea is great also, and a bag of fresh wheel locknuts would help too, LOL. Let us know how the 17mm hexes work out once you have a chance to beat on them a bit. Take care....

so I got a chance to run the truck with the 17mm adapters today out at our local track and, man, these things are the shiznit!!! I can't even describe how big a difference they made. It was just night and day. The SC10 now has the stability and predictability that I have with my slash. I was running proline V3 wheels with Bowties in the rear, and just a standard size wheel with Crimefighters up front. This thing is hooked now! I can get on the throttle in loose conditions and not have to worry about the back end coming around on me now, which is key coming out of the turns and on the long straights. I have no doubt now that I'll be able to run quicker times with the SC10 than with my slash. I've also done all of the conversions to RPM GT2 arms front and rear, along with the 1.5 hub carriers. I just wish you didn't have to spend all the extra money to get this thing to handle like it should from the factory