Man all this talk about driving i need to get my kit done, Although now i dont know what ESC/Motor to go with since Novak is having problems with the Havoc system.

Do you guys run your packs against the battery holder stops towards the rear?I ran it on the street today and it was really hard to drive even on pavement. The rear was all over the place and if I cut the wheel off power it pushed like crazy. Kinds does the same thing offroad. I still swear it's the tires though. My sc8e has the same tires and felt unstable also. Also had no steering off power and tail whip. Problem is the stock tires look awesome and rite now there isn't to many choices

By the way cuda I ordered the rear sway bar just to try out.

yes , i just had a set of memory foams and they are 2x the sixe of the stock sc foams so i cliced them down the middle , just by using a softer foam in the tire even if using a slash tire makes a huge difference in handling.
nice paintjob , my daughter wants me to paint one in pink :smile: its all about keeping the kids happy

Can someone tell me the exact width of the section of the chassis where the ESC goes?

Am about to order Kit plus everything in one go and would like to be sure everything fits.

Cheers

a few pages back i posted i had some tranny binding issues when i would roll the truck on my table well after tearing down the tranny and re checking everything and everything ok i called my buddy who runs nothing butt ae electric he told me to make sure i dont over tighten the tranny bolts otherwise it will cause some tranny binding and to just put a small dab of locktight on the screws that go into the motor plate i did that and now its free as a bird. so just a tip for 1st time t4 tranny builders. they just need to be snug. he told me to run my truck and re check them. just thought i'd share this.

The width of the area for the electronics is just a hair over 1-1/8".

When you guys talk about the longer rear camber link to improve handling ,what does that mean? In the instructions it talks about adding more washers to the ball stud on the rear brace to make a longer rear camber link. I have seen someone else say to put the ball stud on the far outside hole in the rear hub to make a longer rear camber link. Just trying to get some clarification. Thanks

Adding washers is a minor adjustment but noticeable.
Moving the ballstud on the hub is a big adjustment and is very noticeable.

In the kit configuration the rear end feels loose after cornering.
Lengthening the rear camber link settles this down a lot.

Well, still waiting for a replacement servo saver. Had to order one and it won't be here until Friday:cry:!

So far the hardest part of the assembly was gluing the tires. I've never glued tires before and it was a show. Managed to glue them to my fingers, my shirt, the foams as well as the wrong part of the wheel, and I'm still peeling ca glue (and a couple layers of skin) off of my fingertips. There has to be a better way. I followed instructions I found online, and I swear the glue dries so quickly, I can't get the bead set properly before it sticks to the upper edge of the rim.

I just want to run the truck and can't seem to get everything together. The servo saver situation is a pain. I can't believe that none of the local shops have a T4 servo saver in stock

Sacraficing a T4 for the SC10?
 

I had an extra FT T4 and took the front and rear clips off and mounted it to the SC10 chassis. I was pretty excited about building this kit. I had to remove the front shock tower, since the SC10 is different and after I built the Diff and Transmission, I found that the rear T-plate is different, the sc10 transmission seems to sit a little lower. I then had to remove the shock tower, since it was different. The overall build time was about an hour, since I did not have to mess with the servo saver, steering, and turnbuckles. I am going to try this out this week at the track... I'll let you know how it goes...

On a side note. I put in 1000 wt diff oil, as recommended by the owner of the track that I race at. It is silky smooth. I also just reused the CVDs that were in the T4. As for the setup, it is the newest setup posted on rc10.com for a high traction track (t-4).

I run orion lipos, I connect the plugs and then lower the battery hold down and it seems to work fine.

Good luck

Gotta link to the setups on rc10.com? I can never seem to find them

Cuda,

How many washers did you add?

of course i got my ft t4 today to swap all the stuff on to my sc10 and it starts raining like crazy....:flaming: i guess i will have to wait a day or two to try this thing out now...
on a plus note it did give me a chance to order my new speed passion esc and motor. :D just dont tell the g/f...:sneaky:

esc and motor combo
 

What esc and motor combo are you guys running or going to run? I use 2S lipo and was thinking of buying the Novak Havok system because of price but heard they are having some issues. Is there any other combo on the market with similar price that is lipo compatible(lipo cutoff)? Thanks in advance

I moved the ballstud to the outer hole on the hub because it felt like it needed the bigger adjustment and it worked great.

It still needed to be more locked in so that is when I added the extra weight thru out the chassis as mentioned earlier in this thread.

If you haven't looked thru this thread, there are a lot of good ideas that work really well.
The stuff I went with came from some very reliable racers on here and at the track and proved to be exactly what works.

Flip back a few pages and you'll get dialed in quickly.

If you don't get to it I can kick down my set up so far in a pm.

Good luck.

it shows them both being the same number meaning they should both be recessed. the reason it only likes one is they show one up and one down in the picture.

Thanks Qfactor. Isn't 1-1/8" about 28.6mm? The pics on AE website shows the SC10 with a LRP Sphere in it, which is supposedly 33.1mm.

Any confirmation?? Was considering a LRP TC Spec or a different one which is about 40mm.

Cheers
Ian

Any of the standard speed controls will fit. Its just like the T4 only a longer chassis. Just mount it towards the rear so the wires will reach your motor. As far as the tire glueing I suggest getting tire glueing bands or large rubber bands to help hold the tire on the rim while glueing. Take your time and just put a few drops to start. Allow each side to dry before going to the next.

Why are people tearing apart their T4's for the SC10 build!? I have two FT T4's but there's no way I'm tearing them apart just to put a few FT parts on the SC10, there's nothing wrong with the parts that came with the SC10 kit.

As far as the build goes, it takes < 2 hours. The only pain is actually putting the rear wheels on, it's like they didn't drill the whole big enough. Other than that it's pretty smooth. I'll post pics once I get the body cut out.

The rear wheels were an extremely tight fit on mine as well. After taking them on and off a few times they are now easy to deal with.

i can never find them either wonder if ya have to be a registerd member

I am a member and I still don't see setups LOL

This should help.....

http://67.199.85.166/racing/index.php

Direct link to Setups
http://67.199.85.166/racing/setups.php

Ahh never looked there thanks

I yanked the threaded shock bodies from a T4. I freakin' hate those blue tubes with the plastic shock clips. Also the CVDs. Dogbones!?! No thanks.

OK.. Those are the options I see worthy of upgrading, the dogbones do suck. I don't really see a problem with the shocks though, heaps of people actually prefer plastic caps. But to order the FT tie rods and stuff just seems like a waste. I may pull the CVD's from my spare rolling T4 chassis, but I guess I'll try the dogbones first.

I saw one guy putting a buggy body over the chassis but can't find it anymore. Is anybody doing anything to keep all the crap out of the electronics. It one thing to get dry dirt in there, but I've never seen such a mess every time i run. I would buy a buggy body like I have seen, but have no idea where to start as far as size goes. Any help?

Why not just trim out a B4 body to sit under the regular body??? I should try it when i get home and see how it fits.

That would be the simplest solution, time to dig into the old parts box.:sneaky:

Let me know if it works. Thanx.

I'd like to know how well the B4 body fits on an SC10, too. Pics! I was thinking about doing the same thing with my Slash, but with an 8th scale buggy body. I am getting tired of cleaning sticky red clay off of my electronics and lipo.

I have a few bad B4 bodies i will try one. The other thing i was thinking of was using a 2 litre bottle and seeing if i could make that work.

I finally got my built up and put in my new Novak 17.5. Wow this thing is awesome. I haven't even setup the camber/toe in yet (looks way outta wack) and it handles much better than my Slash. Hell of a truck.

some slash people are turning their CORR trucks into 1/8 2wd electric buggies:

http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/projects/backslash/

ok so I ran my SC10 for the first time today. (other than going up and down the parking lot to make sure everything works) And I had a couple questions...

1. I notice when taking off from a dead stop, the truck tended to drift to the left. Granted I was running on a really low traction surface, does this mean my diff is too loose? If so, isnt there an adjustment point outside the truck? So I don't have to remove the tranny?

2. I kept popping off the left rear turnbuckle. It didn't come off the ball, like the turnbuckle stripped OUT of the ball cup. I guess this is why everyone runs RPM ball cups in the rear of their T4/B4?

3. I'm running a 13.5 brushless, geared 26/75. After about 5-10 minutes of running, the ESC was cool to the touch, and the motor was hot enough to where I could keep my finger on it for about 3 solid seconds. I don't have a temp guage, so this isn't too hot right?

4. How loose do you suggest running the slipper clutch so the truck doesnt break traction too much on take off?

Will the T4 CVD's fit the SC10. Cause the outdrives on the SC10 are shorter in length?:confused::confused:

There is no adjustment outside other than the slipper. You could try backing it off an 1/8th at a time and see if this helps the pulling to the left. As far as the ballcups I've never had one pull out. Check your turnbuckle to make sure its threaded properly. I did get one once that didn't have any threads. A 26 sounds alittle high for a 13.5 but if you can temp it try to keep it below 150. The 13.5 is plenty of motor for this truck and thats part of your traction problem. What surface were you running on?

Yes they fit fine.

It was on a dirt road. Hard packed, some loose gravel, really crappy conditions. I know it's hard to guage anything on a surface like that. I ordered some goosebumps, and I'm sure on a real track, it will be a huge difference. I just sorta went with what was suggested in the manual as far as gearing. It is pretty f'n fast. I may drop down to a 24t pinion to be safe.

26/75 is fine on a Novak or LRP 13.5. Good bottom end and top. I'm currently running 24/75 with the 8.5 and liking it.