Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

I have a xxx bk1 and I just installed a havoc brushless system with a 10.5 motor in it.

At first it seemed to work great when I was just driving around in my driveway.

When I let the car get slightly further away, the throttle would cut out and then come back all at once. When the throttle would cut out, steering was still fine.

I thought it was my transmitter or receiver, so I swapped both from one of my other cars to no avail.

Since the car is graphite I tried re-routing the antenna wire to make sure it wasn't getting feedback through there.

I also made sure that the reciever wires were far away from the 3-phase and sensor wires.

I might move it over to my XXX-T, which has the original plastic chassis to see if the problem follows the ESC.

Any other ideas?

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

One other thing to note.

I do have the capacitor for the ESC mounted on the chassis, and the chassis is graphite. Maybe I will try tying it up with the battery wires to keep it away.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

I did the following last night.....

1) pulled my antenna slack all the way out.

2) Moved the capacitor for the ESC from the shock tower to being zip-tied to the battery wires.

3) Slightly moved the 3-phase and sensor wires to the motor.

That seems to have fixed it at least when I was trying to drive it up and down my street in the dark.

I'll find out at the track this week I guess.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

Well I was wrong. While the problem isn't as bad as it was, the car seems to go dead in the air. In other words, I will lauch the triple at my local track, and I get no response from the trottle while trying to adjust the attiude of the car in the air.

I might throw this in my XXX4 to see if the problem goes away.

This is pretty annoying.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

It might be the voltage cutoff since you say it dies in the air. Accelerating up the face of the jump wot might be enough to trip the cutoff if you are using nimh cells.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

That's a good point. The issue is that I'm using lipo battery's. It's done this with both a zippy 4000mah 25C lipo and an SMC 5200mah 24C.

I was thinking my next step could be to turn off the lipo cutoff and install a glitch buster.

It seems like a lot of people have issues like this with Novak ESC's.

It currently has a 27 mhz AM radio in it. I have a 75mhz AM and an FM setup too. Initially it had the FM setup when it first had problems.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

Oh, and I will re-check my solder joint to the battery leads on the ESC. Maybe a so-so joint has too much voltage drop during hard acceleration?

Also, when I put my 8.5T in there it seemed to get worse.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

One more thing to note, when I had my old LRP brushed setup in there I had no issues. This happened as soon as I installed this system.

Steve Weiss

Dear Toddzilla,

Sorry about the delay in responding to your thread! Just hadn't seen it in here when I skimmed through!

I have seen issues where poor solder joints have resulted in cut out issues like what you seem to have been experiencing. If the voltage drops significantly over a poor solder joint, the lipo cut off software can sometimes get tricked into thinking that the battery voltage is too low and start "blipping" neutral when throttle is applied.

This manifests itself as the throttle cutting out very quickly -- for less than a second.

Another possibility is that the voltage drop is so great that it's pulling the voltage that the ESC gets down so far that it's essentially turning the ESC off. Once the ESC is turned off and then on again, it usually takes about 3 seconds for the ESC to give you power to the motor again... but durring this time you will have servo control.

If you recheck your solder joints and still have trouble, I would recommend sending the ESC in to us for evaluation.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the response, I will re-solder my battery connector and retest it.

If that doesn't work I'll install a glitch buster.

If that doesn't work I'm sending it in.

Snotbyrd

I am having this problem also in my TC4, I will be running fine and all of a sudden I lose throttle and have to wait for it to roll to a complete stop before it will take off again. In my troubleshooting I found that I get a blue amber light until it stops spinning wheels and turns back red then I can give it throttle again. I read the light code guide and it said something about a jamming drive train but this is not happening as it cuts out on throttle control but keeps rolling. I did take my drive train apart and found nothing binding as I suspected. I also re-soldered all the wires and seem to be ok at first but after a couple few runs still it cuts out. If its a poor solder joint , I fail to see how it gets that way when the motor and ESC never get to hot to touch. The only other thing I am starting to suspect is that my servo tape , the same I use to hold everything else down in all my cars,keeps coming loose and letting the ESC wobble around a bit.I change the tape to a new piece and it comes loose again after a few runs. Is anybody else experiencing these problems with the ESC cutting out??

Gilley11

iTrader: (15)

Hey guys check the (radio and eletronics) thread about the havoc system. Several of us are have cutout problems. some have been sent in for repair and we're waiting for results

Jaceefus

I had the same problem with my Novak brushless system. It turned out to be bad mosfets inside the speed control. Also, try spektrum if you haven't already.
Other than that...Call Novak they give you 90 days. After that there may be a small service charge. Not much though...Their cust. service is amazing. I sent them my speed control/motor twice with this same problem. Both times they sent me a different set up until my problem was solved...Patience is the key here. best of luck.

Toddzilla

iTrader: (9)

Well I messed with it a bit more this evening.

First I checked my soldering job on the battery connector and it looked good.

Second, I swapped my FM reciever back in and tried it out on the street....still bad.

Next, I re-routed the 3-phase wires as far away as I could, twisted them and zip-tied the sensor wire to them.

Last, I tried it again with no difference.

I compared the install to that of my XBR in my truck and the buggy is actually a lot cleaner.

So I think I have a bad ESC.

The right is my buggy, the left/middle is my truck.

Snotbyrd

I am having this problem in my TC4, I will be running find and all of a sudden I lose throttle and have to wait for it to roll to a complete stop before it will take off again. In my troubleshooting I found that I get a blue amber light until it stops spinning wheels and turns back red then I can give it throttle again. I read the light code guide and it said something about motor thermal cutoff but this is not happening as it cuts out on throttle control but keeps rolling and the motor is only warm to the touch. I did take my drive train apart and found nothing binding as I suspected. I am running a 21.5 in trans am class.