Chattering/Stuttering Sidewinder ESC
#1
Chattering/Stuttering Sidewinder ESC
Hi, I just purchased a car from a man in rochester. It is a stampede xl5 that has been converted to a brushless mamba 5700 with a sidewinder ESC. Currently, the only battery I have with the proper connecter is a 4600 6-cell 7.2 volt battery. When i lift the truck in the air, and hit the throttle (after a fresh calibration) it punches and flies just fine. As soon as i set it down and try to push the throttle, it stutters and chatters for a few seconds, then takes off, or doesnt take off at all, and i have to tickle the throttle. Can anyone tell me why this might be happening. I do have everything secured and fastened, and my current gearing in the Pede is 14/86. Thanks!
#2
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
You will need to get a 7 cell, or lipo to get rid of the problem. I had the same problem with mine. I was told it was an amp draw problem, and better batteries help. I'm sure there are some 6 cells out there also but the 7 cell and or lipos were the easiest fix for me. Also make sure you have good connectors (deans)
Jerry
Jerry
#3
sometimes the connectors are the issue. try reprogramming it to the radio (or ur radio whichever) and starting from scratch. sadly there are cheap no-name cells in many 'hobby grade' stick packs out there. any idea on what gear ratio is in the truck? hopefully its a far cry from stock as it should be. i'm sure there's nothing physically wrong w/the trucks driveline but check to be sure. i'm pretty sure stampede comes with a gear diff so its not a ball diff slipping. idk if they come with a slipper, but ur not describing that kind of action/response.
try another battery? i still remove my motor connectors and solder the 2 sections of wire together on all my mamba systems (except the 1/18 stuff i used to do)...seems to help. but before u get into that. try the above and jump in the castle thread inside the manufacturer's tab (subfolder of onroad) and ask the men themselves if they can help. good luck
R
try another battery? i still remove my motor connectors and solder the 2 sections of wire together on all my mamba systems (except the 1/18 stuff i used to do)...seems to help. but before u get into that. try the above and jump in the castle thread inside the manufacturer's tab (subfolder of onroad) and ask the men themselves if they can help. good luck
R
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Sounds like you're saying with NO LOAD the system works (i.e. wheels in the air) on the ground it stutters. It's already been said once, you've got too much draw on that battery. Does it feel hot? Definitely try a 7-cell Nimh or a 2S Lipo. Honestly you'll want to go LIPO. Also, did you go through the ESC setup using your controller? Did you configure the cutoff voltages and punch/timing? Well I would try a different type of battery before panicking too much.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (64)
Join Date: Jun 2008
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How about the gearing. You may be over geared. Too large of a pinion will put to great a load on the motor when the vehicle is on the ground. Check with Castle Creations as to what the proper gearing for the motor and vehicle you are running.
#6
Hi, I just purchased a car from a man in rochester. It is a stampede xl5 that has been converted to a brushless mamba 5700 with a sidewinder ESC. Currently, the only battery I have with the proper connecter is a 4600 6-cell 7.2 volt battery. When i lift the truck in the air, and hit the throttle (after a fresh calibration) it punches and flies just fine. As soon as i set it down and try to push the throttle, it stutters and chatters for a few seconds, then takes off, or doesnt take off at all, and i have to tickle the throttle. Can anyone tell me why this might be happening. I do have everything secured and fastened, and my current gearing in the Pede is 14/86. Thanks!
but honestly, oftentimes buying a used vehicle results in nothing more than someone buying SEP (someone else's problems)
Last edited by RobbieT; 01-31-2009 at 10:37 AM.
#7
Tech Adept
iTrader: (9)
Sounds like a power problem. A better battery/connectors will solve that problem. In the mean time you can change the settings using the PC link software from Castle Link. You can lower the timing of the motor and change the punch control so that the system doesn't draw as much amps, and this will help stop the stuttering on the start. I am running the Mamba 7700 system with a good 6cell pack and it works fine. So a lipo or 7 cell would be best, you don't absolutely need it. A good 6cell will do the trick.
#8
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
If replacing the batt doesn't make the cogging disappear, update the firmware on the Sidewinder to the latest that Castle offers - that software all but eliminated cogging as long as the batts are up to the task.
You might try low power start setting on the esc as well, again, you'll need the CastleLink - you really need the Castlelink anyway so you can set the Sidewinder up via PC and optimize how you want it to run.
You might try low power start setting on the esc as well, again, you'll need the CastleLink - you really need the Castlelink anyway so you can set the Sidewinder up via PC and optimize how you want it to run.
#9
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Super old thread I know but I am having the same issue with one of my sidewinder sct controllers. I only run lipo and even with a 50c pack it will only run if I pick up the car and feather the throttle or sometimes if I give it a rolling start. I pulled it out of the car and tried it with several other motors and even a mini motor and it's the same thing. Even with no pinion I have to really ease on the throttle to make it go. Once it's going it's fine it just won't start. I tried changing the timing, adjusting the punch control and even different battery voltage but nothing works. Any ideas?