anyone use CC 2200KV on a 1/8th buggy?
01-29-2009, 03:07 PM
#32
Guest
yea ive been looking for it ill let jack know and for sure hit me up on here and we will roll out to rev together since we are both running electric we can pit away from the stinky ass nitros haha
01-29-2009, 04:50 PM
#34
01-29-2009, 06:15 PM
#36
C is the multiplier of the current rating where C = the capacity of the pack.
So a 4000 mAh pack or a 4 Ah pack has an amp rating of 20*4 = 80 amps continuous. If you want to run a 2300 mah pack, it would need to be at least 35C to hold up just as well.
So a 4000 mAh pack or a 4 Ah pack has an amp rating of 20*4 = 80 amps continuous. If you want to run a 2300 mah pack, it would need to be at least 35C to hold up just as well.
01-29-2009, 06:23 PM
#37
is there a recommendation per ESC on the amount of continuous amperage as battery should supply? lets say my pack can give continuous 25C. so that's about 57A continuous. How does this harm the ESC? also, does this mean that the more the MAH a pack is, the less the discharge C could be?
01-30-2009, 04:59 PM
#38
Usually C rating is based on how well a pack can hold its voltage under a given current load and stay below reasonable temperatures. Higher current capable packs do no drop in voltage as much, and therefore do not heat up as much as less capable packs.
The issue with the MMM is it does not like rapid fluctuations of the battery voltage causing ripple current, which happens when throttle is first applied and during the high frequency switching of the esc. High current capable packs are going to keep the voltage more steady.
A 10C 8Ah pack has the same current capabilities as a 20C 4Ah pack.
The issue with the MMM is it does not like rapid fluctuations of the battery voltage causing ripple current, which happens when throttle is first applied and during the high frequency switching of the esc. High current capable packs are going to keep the voltage more steady.
A 10C 8Ah pack has the same current capabilities as a 20C 4Ah pack.
01-30-2009, 05:12 PM
#39
Usually C rating is based on how well a pack can hold its voltage under a given current load and stay below reasonable temperatures. Higher current capable packs do no drop in voltage as much, and therefore do not heat up as much as less capable packs.
The issue with the MMM is it does not like rapid fluctuations of the battery voltage causing ripple current, which happens when throttle is first applied and during the high frequency switching of the esc. High current capable packs are going to keep the voltage more steady.
A 10C 8Ah pack has the same current capabilities as a 20C 4Ah pack.
The issue with the MMM is it does not like rapid fluctuations of the battery voltage causing ripple current, which happens when throttle is first applied and during the high frequency switching of the esc. High current capable packs are going to keep the voltage more steady.
A 10C 8Ah pack has the same current capabilities as a 20C 4Ah pack.
01-30-2009, 06:36 PM
#40
How can i tell which behavior my pack is giving. How do i know if it is providing the proper current to not affect the voltage stability? you mentioned the C rating is based on how well a pack can hold its voltage under a given current load and stay below reasonable temperatures. My 2300MAH pack barely gets warm after my 5min qual. is this a good sign that it is enough current to keep the voltage stable?
01-30-2009, 06:38 PM
#41
teeforb...putting this reply in laymen's terms so everyone can understand the situation. Please don't take it as talking down. 
There is a minimum capacity rating with our combos due to a phenomenon called ripple current. Ripple current occurs when a battery cannot put out enough current to satisfy the power system's demands. The ESC is switching on and off up to 7k times per second. Every time the ESC switches on and off (duty cycle) the amperage being drawn from the batteries does the same (the current/voltage swings dramatically), and the capacitors on the ESC are in charge of smoothing this voltage/current out for the ESC...the capacitors are the first line of defense for the ESC. If the batteries cannot put out enough current to fill the capacitors during the time when the ESC is switching on and off, the capacitors get hot...they can get so hot that the electrolytic fluid inside the capacitors boils and the capacitor fails. If this happens the ESC is left open to those huge current/voltag swings, and the ESC fails. This is why it is so important to use batteries that will sufficiently supply enough current and voltage for the system you are using. The absolute minimum for our systems is 4000mah and 20C continuous discharge rating. The higher those #'s are the better. My "worst" pack is 5000mah and 20C discharge...everything other than that is minimum 45000mah and 30C. The higher the C rating the lower the resistance of the battery. What this means is that if you had two batteries with the same capacity but different C ratings, the battery with the higher C rating will not be working nearly as hard as the lower C rating battery...as a result it will stay cooler than the lower C rated battery under the same amp load. The lower the battery temperature at the end of the run the more cycles you will get out of the battery, and the higher the voltage will be under load (so you get more punch off the line, and higher top speed). Don't cheap out on the batteries...the system is only as good as the batteries...you should use the best packs you can find...always. Yes, they may cost a little more than the lower C rated batteries, but they'll last longer and put out more power.
teeforb...you'd have to put the batteries under a high amp load to find out if the packs are sufficient for the application. Easy way to know your batteries will handle it is to buy the best you can get. That's about it when it comes down to the real world. Do NOT trust off brand battery ratings...heard the horror stories a million times. As long as you buy the packs from a major distributor that is trusted in the industry, buy at least 4000mah pack, and they have a 20C cont. discharge rating as we recommend you'll be fine. Other than the 2 5000mah 20C packs I have everything else is 4500mah and 30C or higher.
There is a minimum capacity rating with our combos due to a phenomenon called ripple current. Ripple current occurs when a battery cannot put out enough current to satisfy the power system's demands. The ESC is switching on and off up to 7k times per second. Every time the ESC switches on and off (duty cycle) the amperage being drawn from the batteries does the same (the current/voltage swings dramatically), and the capacitors on the ESC are in charge of smoothing this voltage/current out for the ESC...the capacitors are the first line of defense for the ESC. If the batteries cannot put out enough current to fill the capacitors during the time when the ESC is switching on and off, the capacitors get hot...they can get so hot that the electrolytic fluid inside the capacitors boils and the capacitor fails. If this happens the ESC is left open to those huge current/voltag swings, and the ESC fails. This is why it is so important to use batteries that will sufficiently supply enough current and voltage for the system you are using. The absolute minimum for our systems is 4000mah and 20C continuous discharge rating. The higher those #'s are the better. My "worst" pack is 5000mah and 20C discharge...everything other than that is minimum 45000mah and 30C. The higher the C rating the lower the resistance of the battery. What this means is that if you had two batteries with the same capacity but different C ratings, the battery with the higher C rating will not be working nearly as hard as the lower C rating battery...as a result it will stay cooler than the lower C rated battery under the same amp load. The lower the battery temperature at the end of the run the more cycles you will get out of the battery, and the higher the voltage will be under load (so you get more punch off the line, and higher top speed). Don't cheap out on the batteries...the system is only as good as the batteries...you should use the best packs you can find...always. Yes, they may cost a little more than the lower C rated batteries, but they'll last longer and put out more power.
teeforb...you'd have to put the batteries under a high amp load to find out if the packs are sufficient for the application. Easy way to know your batteries will handle it is to buy the best you can get. That's about it when it comes down to the real world. Do NOT trust off brand battery ratings...heard the horror stories a million times. As long as you buy the packs from a major distributor that is trusted in the industry, buy at least 4000mah pack, and they have a 20C cont. discharge rating as we recommend you'll be fine. Other than the 2 5000mah 20C packs I have everything else is 4500mah and 30C or higher.
02-07-2009, 08:11 PM
#42
Tech Rookie
I have the CC 2200 in an 8ight with the Losi conversion. I use a 5000 30C 4S and it is a great combo. Thanks to everyone for the great information. Currently I am working on getting the run times I need to compete with the nitros for a 20 minute main. I have the timing set at Lowest, Punch control at 70, and the LVC set to 14V. Gearing is 14/45. I am able to get over 17 minutes on a medium sized outdoor with blue groove. Any other sugestions would be great. With this settup it will easily keep up with the nitros everywhere.
02-08-2009, 01:15 AM
#43
The capacity and C rating are what you're looking for. You want bare minimum 4000mah and 20C. My cars the "worst" pack I have is a 5000 20C. All the rest (and what I use daily) are 4500 30C, 5300 30C, 6500 30C, and soon to be 5000 35C. The higher the capacity and C rating the less the pack is going to have to work for the same amp draw. This means the pack doesn't get as hot, and it'll get more cycles as a result.
What LIPO brands are you using and specs of each battery if you don't mind?
I've got the LOSI 5000mAh 14.8v and they work great with the MMM.
Cheers
