84 GT 5.0

iTrader: (26)

On guys, my 8ight 2.0 has a terrible mid corner push initial turn in is great but after that it pushes like a bulldozer. I'm running green springs in front blacks in the rear 54 pistons all around 40wt in the front 30wt in the rear diffs are 5/5/3 shock position and camber links are that of the drake setup. Tires are m3 calibers which is what most run and are very successful with. What can I do to help this mid corner push.

MattP

iTrader: (440)

Ok thanks. I will remove it from both my losi vehicles. It makes sense after reading about it. Chassis flex with a tight motor mounting in the rear could definitely move the pinion.

MattP

iTrader: (440)

I'm still running the nitro setup with silvers up front and greens in the rear and mine handles great. I put the drakes setup on mine and it's on rails.

drepus

check your front driveshafts, if they are very worn they may be causing the push

i would also go up on the center diff oil to 7k and down on the rear diff to 2k

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Would recommend: Silver springs front/54 pistons/42.5wt, Black spring rear/56 piston/30wt, 5-7-3 diff fluid, 2.3mm front swaybar flush at ends, 2.5mm rear sway bar with 1.5-2mm at ends. This setup seems to work very well at many different tracks and is very managable. +1 on going down to 2k rear diff fluid, if needing more on power steering.

hobdog

iTrader: (19)

Hey guys, I just picked up a 8 2.0E and am looking for some adviceon the battery pack situation. How many of you guys run 2 7.4v packs, or can you even do it. I will be running a spx8 lrp with a tekin 1900. My thinking with the two 7.4 packs, I would be able to use them in the winter for my 1\10th scale cars, and with two chargers going I could charge the two packs much quicker then a 4cell with my current charger\power source situation. Let's here the pros and cons.

84 GT 5.0

iTrader: (26)

I will give this setup a try.

aka_boogo

Hey guys

Is anyone who is running a mamba monster 220kv motor with the conversion kit have any issues with the motor just being bolted into the mount with no plastic chassis mount? My motor won't fit with it screwed into chassis.

I'm worried the 3mm screws won't be strong enough when jumping.

Cheers

dfsc10

iTrader: (22)

i talked to castle before installing mine they recommended you to drill the motor hole to make it 4mm but i didn't want to do that so i just use the 3mm screws and i don't have a problem throw the motor brace and make sure you get 3x10mm counter sunk screws!

SPOOLIN1022

this is pointless, they shouldve just included it with a tekin rx8 combo

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

I thought about that option for quite a while also and it would have been much more cost effective. I ended up with a 4S pack and am very pleased with it. I would recommend if going with 2 x 2S packs that you secure semi-permanently secure them together so they do not move in the battery craddle. Having them offset each other slightly to run a jumper between the two packs will work. Please let us know how well your setup works if you choose to go that route.

patrick

iTrader: (72)

I ran the 2 7.4v pack set up for a long time with no problems at all. Just make sure you use at least 40c batteries and balance charge each pack seperately every time.

Cult Racing

iTrader: (42)

Alright, I just bought a 2.0 and this is my first 1/8th scale, and wondering what upgrades are best? Looking at the king headz towers and other misc they have or the tlr stuff?

dangerwr

iTrader: (5)

What is great about this car is that there are few upgrades that you actually need. I run lots of upgrades but are in attempt to make the car lighter or handle better.

I do believe most people will recommend to get the aluminum servo horn. The stock shock towers are pretty good. I have been running the King Headz in front because I bend the stock. The rear I personally use the TLR carbon because it sees a lot less abuse with my driving.

I highly recommend the 10 degree inclined spindle and carrier. Again, these are not a must and would suggest you run w/o them for a few races, assuming you will be racing, and add them once you get a handle on the car. If you build the car w/o all the upgrades you cannot tell what each one does and if it is right for you and your track(s).

Other upgrades that I really like are the titanium bits to drop weight: tie-rods, upper & lower shock mounts and rear outer hinge pins. Also, the vented shock caps with rebound foams are pretty good at keep the shock consistent throughout the day.

mdhyams

iTrader: (15)

When you say vented shock caps. Is this a mod or are you talking about the shock caps with a hole in the side.