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Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread

Old 07-11-2011, 04:55 PM
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Got an issue with my 8ight-E buggy and would like some thoughts on whats causing it.

I keep stripping the Losi 45t plastic spur out. My gear mesh was what seemed to be set correctly, touch bit of play between the spur and pinion. I made sure the motor screw was tight, even ground some tiny notches to make sure it wouldnt move.

I do run the plastic motor rest in the rear, cut down to fit under my tekin motor. But I have read that most people dont run it. Could this possibly be the issue?

The last one that stripped went after a landing off a big double jump, mind you it wasnt a super hard landing, i actually cased the landing with the back of the car. It actually looked as if the spur was melted, motor and pinion were hot, but doubt that it was hot enough to actually melt the spur. I do run in super hot weather (115* outside temp, in the shade) so things do get warm.


It there an issue with spurs stripping on the 8ight-e? I do not want to run the metal spur, but will if it will solve the issue.
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by beeanner View Post
Got an issue with my 8ight-E buggy and would like some thoughts on whats causing it.

I keep stripping the Losi 45t plastic spur out. My gear mesh was what seemed to be set correctly, touch bit of play between the spur and pinion. I made sure the motor screw was tight, even ground some tiny notches to make sure it wouldnt move.

I do run the plastic motor rest in the rear, cut down to fit under my tekin motor. But I have read that most people dont run it. Could this possibly be the issue?

The last one that stripped went after a landing off a big double jump, mind you it wasnt a super hard landing, i actually cased the landing with the back of the car. It actually looked as if the spur was melted, motor and pinion were hot, but doubt that it was hot enough to actually melt the spur. I do run in super hot weather (115* outside temp, in the shade) so things do get warm.


It there an issue with spurs stripping on the 8ight-e? I do not want to run the metal spur, but will if it will solve the issue.
You pretty much nailed it in your post. I believe it is a good idea to run w/o the plastic motor rest completely. Make sure your mesh is nice and tight--more so than what you might run on a metal spur. Just enough to make a little "click" when checking the play. Lastly, you need to regulate how much brake or throttle you input on landings as this will strip the spur. Higher temps will probably make the spur softer but is likely not your issue entirely.
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
You pretty much nailed it in your post. I believe it is a good idea to run w/o the plastic motor rest completely. Make sure your mesh is nice and tight--more so than what you might run on a metal spur. Just enough to make a little "click" when checking the play. Lastly, you need to regulate how much brake or throttle you input on landings as this will strip the spur. Higher temps will probably make the spur softer but is likely not your issue entirely.

Thanks for the input! Ive read a few posts saying to ditch the motor rest.

Ive also read about people using the Kyosho plastic spurs. Any benefit of using those? Stronger? Or just stick with the losi spurs?

I appreciate the help! Switched over from a Ve8 where I had no spur issues at all and now cant seem to keep one from blowing up in the Losi.


Last question. I notice that alot of the 8ight setups call for the 10* inclined blocks. Can you use the standard plastic steering hubs for those, or would it need the aluminum steering hubs as well?
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by beeanner View Post
Thanks for the input! Ive read a few posts saying to ditch the motor rest.

Ive also read about people using the Kyosho plastic spurs. Any benefit of using those? Stronger? Or just stick with the losi spurs?

I appreciate the help! Switched over from a Ve8 where I had no spur issues at all and now cant seem to keep one from blowing up in the Losi.


Last question. I notice that alot of the 8ight setups call for the 10* inclined blocks. Can you use the standard plastic steering hubs for those, or would it need the aluminum steering hubs as well?
I have actually used the Kyosho plastic spurs in the days before Losi was producing them. I have not "burned" up a Losi spur but have stripped a Kyosho. I chalk this up to technique over the quality of the spur. To answer your question I would not say the Kyosho is any more or less durable than the Losi. The Kyosho requires different o-rings to prevent leaking so gets a minus in my book.

I run the Hot Bodies pinions and have been by far my favorite, BTW.

The inclined spindles are matched with the hub carriers. You will want to have both together for it to work properly as designed as I understand. They do have a marked improvement in my opinion as well.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:01 PM
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Thanks for the help! Its much appreciated!
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by beeanner View Post
Thanks for the help! Its much appreciated!
Words.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by beeanner View Post
Got an issue with my 8ight-E buggy and would like some thoughts on whats causing it.

I keep stripping the Losi 45t plastic spur out. My gear mesh was what seemed to be set correctly, touch bit of play between the spur and pinion. I made sure the motor screw was tight, even ground some tiny notches to make sure it wouldnt move.

I do run the plastic motor rest in the rear, cut down to fit under my tekin motor. But I have read that most people dont run it. Could this possibly be the issue?

The last one that stripped went after a landing off a big double jump, mind you it wasnt a super hard landing, i actually cased the landing with the back of the car. It actually looked as if the spur was melted, motor and pinion were hot, but doubt that it was hot enough to actually melt the spur. I do run in super hot weather (115* outside temp, in the shade) so things do get warm.


It there an issue with spurs stripping on the 8ight-e? I do not want to run the metal spur, but will if it will solve the issue.
I was under same impression, seems odd to "remove a specific designed motor support" but after stripping a plastic on Buggy and damaging a Steel on Truggy they have both been removed and clear sailing since.

Al
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:39 PM
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Does anyone know if this E buggy can be converted to nitro? I have a nitro 8ight 2.0 now and am considering getting another roller to use at big races. I also want to make one electric, so being able to switch back and forth between the two is appealing. Especially since the 8E is a little cheaper than the nitro roller and it has the electric parts I want for one of the chassis.

I cant tell if the E conversion that Losi sells has the same parts as the complete kit, so I am not sure which way is best.

Thanks for any advice!
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang347 View Post
Does anyone know if this E buggy can be converted to nitro? I have a nitro 8ight 2.0 now and am considering getting another roller to use at big races. I also want to make one electric, so being able to switch back and forth between the two is appealing. Especially since the 8E is a little cheaper than the nitro roller and it has the electric parts I want for one of the chassis.

I cant tell if the E conversion that Losi sells has the same parts as the complete kit, so I am not sure which way is best.

Thanks for any advice!
Let me see if I understand you correctly first. The 8ight 2.0 can be converted with the Losi EP conversion kit. You can also buy the EP roller. Not sure if it is much cheaper as a roller but you will spend more $$ up front to get an EP going. I have heard it is cheaper in the long run but have not done the math.

Anyway, I bet it is cheaper to buy the EP roller than it is to convert the Nitro. The EP conversion kit is about $80. Does that help?
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:13 PM
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EP roller = $500 at Amain.
Used nitro roller I found for $300. +$80 for E-conversion, +20 for E-body =$400.

Its only $100 cheaper, and its a used car. I would rather buy the new 8ight-E but I want to know that I can throw and engine and fuel tank in it so I can pull double duty with it. I am not sure if the chassis can support both nitro and electric, that is my main question.
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang347 View Post
EP roller = $500 at Amain.
Used nitro roller I found for $300. +$80 for E-conversion, +20 for E-body =$400.

Its only $100 cheaper, and its a used car. I would rather buy the new 8ight-E but I want to know that I can throw and engine and fuel tank in it so I can pull double duty with it. I am not sure if the chassis can support both nitro and electric, that is my main question.
Ah yes, same chassis my friend. You can pull double duty w/o modification. Cheers!
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:39 PM
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Awesome, thanks!
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:44 AM
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we run a propose built 1/8 astroturf track that is awesome, am running a Hobbywing sensored ESC and a 2250Kv 4s combo = insane fast...
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:59 PM
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If im using stock 1700kv motor 4S and running on very jumpy and quite bumpy a little bit loose track, what pinion i should use?
I used 15, but then i didnt have any top speed and it was on the hot side, i did put a 17 on, but i havent tested it yet.

Last edited by jaank; 07-18-2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 07-18-2011, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jaank View Post
If im using stock 1700kv motor 4S and running on very jumpy and quite bumpy a little bit loose track, what pinion i should use?
I used 15, but then i didnt have any top speed and it was on the hot side, i did put a 17 on, but i havent tested it yet.
That is personally where I would start but am sure there are a ton of guys running your setup on here . . .
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