Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread
07-29-2009, 10:17 PM
#3226
Guys..gonna finally do this brushless thing since the local track is banning nitro's in the winter(indoor paintball field co-inside the track). So this is what I plan to do. I've already bought a 8ight buggy 1.0 roller (RTR). I planned on gettting the novak complete kit with conversion hardware and motor and esc. Been reading some stuff online and people seem to knock the novak systems..I wonder why? Novak has always been top notch quality stuff since my XXX-T and super rooster esc days! Hahaha...Does their brushless system suck that bad or what? I am not looking for gigantic power..I run my nitro 808 with a N21BF and do well..finesse is sort of mything..and I smoke people in my 8t2.0 with a mach 26! LOL...anyways..I am sure tekin and mamba max is all this and that and a bag of chips but in my heart I've always did like old Bob Novak's products.
So with that said..can anyone offer some real unbiased opinion on why the novak brushless arent up to par? Also planning on running 4s 3000ma turnigy pack and the novak 6.5 with stock 8ight RTR gearings. I know with my nitro 8ight its uses 13t clutchbell...but what do u guys run for pinion for the 8ight 1.0..the novak kit comes with a 13t..is that good or what? Thanks for the advice..may have to change my handle to brushlesslessnutzz soon...hahahahaha
So with that said..can anyone offer some real unbiased opinion on why the novak brushless arent up to par? Also planning on running 4s 3000ma turnigy pack and the novak 6.5 with stock 8ight RTR gearings. I know with my nitro 8ight its uses 13t clutchbell...but what do u guys run for pinion for the 8ight 1.0..the novak kit comes with a 13t..is that good or what? Thanks for the advice..may have to change my handle to brushlesslessnutzz soon...hahahahaha
If you dont want problems, then dont use novak. That is unless your racing on a tiny little indoor track like ocrc. Tekin, Castle, Losi, etc release 1/8th electronics for a reason. Novak stuff is pretty much 1/10th with fans and bigger cases. Every single one I have seen run(4) has thermaled before 10 min and this is on a small-med outdoor track, in the winter time. Save the money and hassle and get the right stuff off the bat.
07-30-2009, 12:05 AM
#3227
Tech Regular
iTrader: (22)
If you dont want problems, then dont use novak. That is unless your racing on a tiny little indoor track like ocrc. Tekin, Castle, Losi, etc release 1/8th electronics for a reason. Novak stuff is pretty much 1/10th with fans and bigger cases. Every single one I have seen run(4) has thermaled before 10 min and this is on a small-med outdoor track, in the winter time. Save the money and hassle and get the right stuff off the bat.
07-30-2009, 08:13 AM
#3228
So say I buy a Mamba max system or something. What conversion kit should I use then. Because I guess every kit is different? Help me out here..I have to get conversion kit specific to can size? Or is there a one size fits all conversion kit? Will the losi conversion kit accomandate a Mamba Max motor??
07-30-2009, 09:16 AM
#3230
I did this EXACTLY to the Tee and couldn't be happier.
PS thx to the guys who helped me in my decisions.
07-31-2009, 09:46 AM
#3231
Hey everybody,
I guessing this has been asked before because it would seem like a common problem to me, but it's not an easy thing to search for.. Anyways, I run an 8ight-e 1.0 with the losi conversion and a 2200 kv CC combo. My problem relates to the rear, center driveshaft popping out of the center diff drive cup. Sorry if the terms aren't right, but the dogbone or shaft only hangs onto a few mm of the drive cup (the one connecting to the drive shaft). It has popped out twice, now, both times on after a big jump/heavy landing. I am guessing the chassis flexes enough to allow it to pop.
It's not a huge deal, but I am planning on racing in a week or so and don't want this to happen mid-race. Is there a longer dogbone/shaft or a good way to stiffen the chassis flex?
Thanks! Hope this makes sense..
I guessing this has been asked before because it would seem like a common problem to me, but it's not an easy thing to search for.. Anyways, I run an 8ight-e 1.0 with the losi conversion and a 2200 kv CC combo. My problem relates to the rear, center driveshaft popping out of the center diff drive cup. Sorry if the terms aren't right, but the dogbone or shaft only hangs onto a few mm of the drive cup (the one connecting to the drive shaft). It has popped out twice, now, both times on after a big jump/heavy landing. I am guessing the chassis flexes enough to allow it to pop.
It's not a huge deal, but I am planning on racing in a week or so and don't want this to happen mid-race. Is there a longer dogbone/shaft or a good way to stiffen the chassis flex?
Thanks! Hope this makes sense..
07-31-2009, 09:53 AM
#3232
Hey everybody,
I guessing this has been asked before because it would seem like a common problem to me, but it's not an easy thing to search for.. Anyways, I run an 8ight-e 1.0 with the losi conversion and a 2200 kv CC combo. My problem relates to the rear, center driveshaft popping out of the center diff drive cup. Sorry if the terms aren't right, but the dogbone or shaft only hangs onto a few mm of the drive cup (the one connecting to the drive shaft). It has popped out twice, now, both times on after a big jump/heavy landing. I am guessing the chassis flexes enough to allow it to pop.
It's not a huge deal, but I am planning on racing in a week or so and don't want this to happen mid-race. Is there a longer dogbone/shaft or a good way to stiffen the chassis flex?
Thanks! Hope this makes sense..
I guessing this has been asked before because it would seem like a common problem to me, but it's not an easy thing to search for.. Anyways, I run an 8ight-e 1.0 with the losi conversion and a 2200 kv CC combo. My problem relates to the rear, center driveshaft popping out of the center diff drive cup. Sorry if the terms aren't right, but the dogbone or shaft only hangs onto a few mm of the drive cup (the one connecting to the drive shaft). It has popped out twice, now, both times on after a big jump/heavy landing. I am guessing the chassis flexes enough to allow it to pop.
It's not a huge deal, but I am planning on racing in a week or so and don't want this to happen mid-race. Is there a longer dogbone/shaft or a good way to stiffen the chassis flex?
Thanks! Hope this makes sense..
get the 2.0 rear bone...its longer to accommodate the 2mm longer chassis the 2.0 has.
07-31-2009, 09:54 AM
#3233
Sweet! That's what I was hoping! Thanks, man. I am guessing this is a common problem then?
07-31-2009, 01:14 PM
#3234
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
Posts: 1,716
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
If your dog bone still is in good shape just shim the coupler away from the pinion a couple mm until its time replace the bone.
07-31-2009, 06:56 PM
#3236
Tech Rookie
08-01-2009, 04:56 PM
#3238
I've been having a suspension issue with my 8B 1.0 converted to electric. The jumps on our track are steep and getting cupped, so they have a lot of kick to the back end of the car. I'm also noticing this in the whoops. If I stay on the throttle harder off the lip it does help some with the kick, but you also over jump the landings in the rythm sections.
My current setup is:
Front: Green springs, 54 pistons, 45wt
Rear: Green springs, 56 pistons, 30wt
I've also tried Black springs in the rear and 25wt with green springs. Both were about the same in kick from the rear, so I'm thinking it is a piston issue. I'm thinking I need to go back to the 55 pistons and 35 wt. What do you think?
My current setup is:
Front: Green springs, 54 pistons, 45wt
Rear: Green springs, 56 pistons, 30wt
I've also tried Black springs in the rear and 25wt with green springs. Both were about the same in kick from the rear, so I'm thinking it is a piston issue. I'm thinking I need to go back to the 55 pistons and 35 wt. What do you think?
08-01-2009, 05:13 PM
#3239
[QUOTE=
My current setup is:
Front: Green springs, 54 pistons, 45wt
Rear: Green springs, 56 pistons, 30wt
I've also tried Black springs in the rear and 25wt with green springs. Both were about the same in kick from the rear, so I'm thinking it is a piston issue. I'm thinking I need to go back to the 55 pistons and 35 wt. What do you think?[/QUOTE]
GO-RIDE.com,
Keep the setup above but try a thicker shock oil in the rear; also move the lower shock mount to the outer mounting position (if you haven't done this) this will slow the rear suspension action which might help your issue.
I've tried slowing the rear suspension action on my buggy for rough tack handling and it showed some improvement, just my opinion!
BRC
My current setup is:
Front: Green springs, 54 pistons, 45wt
Rear: Green springs, 56 pistons, 30wt
I've also tried Black springs in the rear and 25wt with green springs. Both were about the same in kick from the rear, so I'm thinking it is a piston issue. I'm thinking I need to go back to the 55 pistons and 35 wt. What do you think?[/QUOTE]
GO-RIDE.com,
Keep the setup above but try a thicker shock oil in the rear; also move the lower shock mount to the outer mounting position (if you haven't done this) this will slow the rear suspension action which might help your issue.
I've tried slowing the rear suspension action on my buggy for rough tack handling and it showed some improvement, just my opinion!
BRC
08-01-2009, 06:48 PM
#3240
I run 45 front with silvers and 35 rear with green springs, stock pistons all around. Ride Ht. 28mm front and 29 rear.I also switched to AKA Med City Blocks today and my car is dialed on my local track! I also went up to 7K in the center diff.........good luck!